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Is there a trick to getting the rear wheel back on and the chain the appropriate tightness? For the the life of me I can't seem to get it tight enough. Anyone have a foolproof technique?
Macho Man Savage said:Is there a trick to getting the rear wheel back on and the chain the appropriate tightness? For the the life of me I can't seem to get it tight enough. Anyone have a foolproof technique?
me tooukiahb said:A trick I've learned is to intentionally cock the wheel towards the drive side, tighten the drive side bolt partially, straighten the wheel (which will add tension to the chain) and tighten the other bolt, then tighten the drive side fully...works great w/ a little practice.
2nd those words of caution. I bent the axle on a Promax hub doing the same thing. and I thought I was the only one...joe friday said:i used the aforementioned technique with a Dura-ace hub--hollow axle..
pushing on the rim nice and hard exerted enough pressure to bend the axle.
it was a really good feeling... i just wanted to say over and over, " wow, that's unexpected"
also, keep in mind that chain tension will vary throughout the rotation of the chainwheel
so it's gonna have tight and loose spots..
Macho Man Savage said:Is there a trick to getting the rear wheel back on and the chain the appropriate tightness? For the the life of me I can't seem to get it tight enough. Anyone have a foolproof technique?
The only problem with those is that they don't work with converted road bikes. One of these days I'm going to get my dropouts cutoff and some track ends weilded on.rcmann said:You can make the whole thing virtually idiot proof by just getting a set of chain tugs. Makes chain tension/wheel alignment a science instead of an art. It assumes, however, that you're using track ends. If you're not, refer to previous posts for the art of the install.
timfire said:The only problem with those is that they don't work with converted road bikes. One of these days I'm going to get my dropouts cutoff and some track ends weilded on.