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Discussion Starter #1
My fixie is a '80 Schwinn 11.8 Voyageur, solid chrome, with Sugino maxy cranks. I use a Suzie flipflop hub 17free/16fixed. Because of the hills in my area it is next to impossible for me to run strictly fixed. My rings question is I run a 43t and have mounted it on the inside position where the 39t would normally be and it is real close to the chain stay but never touches. I recently moved it to the outer position. It appears that either position has an okay chain line, runs smooth. I am thinking of riding a century later this year on the SS. Was thinking because it is a relatively flat century of using a 46t ring to get a little more speed. (22mph on flats just about spins me out with a 43t, could go a little faster but control becomes an issue) Was thinking that i could mount the 43 back to the inside position, the 46t on the outside and just remove/add a few links in the chain when I want to swap up or down. I am just not sure that riding a 46t 100+ miles is something I want to do or can do, so I have a backup plan. Anyone else do this double ring thing?
 

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I know little

But for your plan, couldn't you use a singulator with your chain, add a front derailleur, and run both chainrings? Of course, that's a two-speed, not a single-speed, but even if you don't want to use the derailleur, seems like the singulator would eliminate the need to change chain length.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I supose it would work

harlond said:
But for your plan, couldn't you use a singulator with your chain, add a front derailleur, and run both chainrings? Of course, that's a two-speed, not a single-speed, but even if you don't want to use the derailleur, seems like the singulator would eliminate the need to change chain length.
Never considered doing that, I have a FD and DT shifter would just need to buy the ring and sigulator, still has the threaded hanger. I however use an old skool chainon that bike, the U shaped snap ring so it is real easy to undo a chain, add the links re attach and go. For some reason I'm thinking the singulator is kind of pricey. I got about $225 in the whole bike, $150 in wheels, $65 for the rest, a few incidentals.
 

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You don't want to run a singulator or other chain tensioner with a fixed gear! And I don't know about you, but the prospect of fiddling with a chain breaker and adding & removing links on a hundred mile ride sounds like about as much fun as a root canal.

So since you've already got a flipflop free/fixed hub, just use that. In terms of gear inches, here's how it breaks down:

Your 46 x 16 (fixed) gives you 77.6 g"
Your 46 x 17(free) gives you 73.1 g"

Switching the chainring and chain to a 43 x 16 (fixed) gives you 72.6 g". So there's only a .5 g" difference between the 46 x 17 and the 43 x 16!

I'd wager that messing with the chain just to get a .5" lower gear is in no way worth the hassle, compared to just flipping your wheel around. And just being able to coast will give your legs a break.

Anyway, Sheldon Brown has a way to make a multi-speed fixed gear if you're so inclined:
http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html
 

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Seems more trouble than it's worth.

A few of us rode 100 fixed miles last fall in CT and agreed that we felt surprisingly little different at the end than we do on other leisurely 100 mile rides. It was actually less epic than some had hoped. Individual riders ran different gears and spun at different cadences, but each seemed to find his own sweet spot and ride comfortably.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Need to ah, drop a decimal point

fixintogo said:
You don't want to run a singulator or other chain tensioner with a fixed gear! And I don't know about you, but the prospect of fiddling with a chain breaker and adding & removing links on a hundred mile ride sounds like about as much fun as a root canal.

So since you've already got a flipflop free/fixed hub, just use that. In terms of gear inches, here's how it breaks down:

Your 46 x 16 (fixed) gives you 77.6 g"
Your 46 x 17(free) gives you 73.1 g"

Switching the chainring and chain to a 43 x 16 (fixed) gives you 72.6 g". So there's only a .5 g" difference between the 46 x 17 and the 43 x 16!

I'd wager that messing with the chain just to get a .5" lower gear is in no way worth the hassle, compared to just flipping your wheel around. And just being able to coast will give your legs a break.

Anyway, Sheldon Brown has a way to make a multi-speed fixed gear if you're so inclined:
http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html[/QUOT

Disregard. My idea is to have an option to use a 46 or 43 in the SS mode w/o carrying the ring somehow. Breaking the chain is no big deal, just add a few links. What I may do is just bolt it onto the inside position, carry a few links and if I need it, I can change it at a rest stop.
 

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Lone Gunman said:
Disregard. My idea is to have an option to use a 46 or 43 in the SS mode w/o carrying the ring somehow. Breaking the chain is no big deal, just add a few links. What I may do is just bolt it onto the inside position, carry a few links and if I need it, I can change it at a rest stop.

EDIT: Since you don't care to go fixed anyway, just thread another, bigger, freewheel onto the "fixed" side of the flipflop hub. The threads are the same; then you can run a 17 and an 18, both freewheel. It's a $24 solution, with no chain issues, no derailleurs or shifters.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gee, I probably should have mentioned

fixintogo said:
Sorry about that. I guess I assumed that since you were asking in the Fixed Gear forum you wanted to run it fixed.

So you basically want a two-speed freewheel bike? I'd just use a front der and a tensioner. But if you'd rather perform chain surgery mid-ride, go for it.
After that 100+ mile ride, I gotta turn around and ride back 100+ the next day. I might be toast if my gearing is too aggressive on day one. Which is why I'm thinking of having bail out gearing for day 2. Also, never have done 100 on a SS before. And I really don't want to add all the paraphenalia to the bike, just thinking it could be a convient place to stowe the extra ring.
 
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