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If you are riding with a chain so dirty that you lose 15 watts then you don't deserve to be on a bike. A filthy, crap quality, too-short chain compared to a clean, quality, correct length chain is like saying you'll get better gas mileage if your car is not belching smoke and running on tires inflated to 15 psi. True but not relevant to the real world.
 

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The title is a bit miss leading, you arn't gaining anything, you just are not losing as much as 30w. A clean not worn out chain that is lubed is the conclusion to minimize the loss of power in your drive drain due to a dirty worn out chain.

12w clean chain
5w good chain
4w right length
3w cross chaining
2w chain tolerance
2w chain wear
1w deep clean
4-5w super lube
 

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200w on flat land calculates out to 19.57mph.
230w on flat land calculates out to 20.63mph

So you should see 1mph faster speeds!
hahaha

Going from my gunkiest neglcted worn chain to a shiny new chain never gained me 1mph speeds.
Funny as I just replaced my chain about 2 weeks ago.

I looked at my power curve and don't see any 30w jumps anywhere in the curve...should I demand a refund?
 

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I'm pretty sure if given the time on google I could 'prove' that someone going 17mph or so with a clean chain, aero frame and wheels, skin suit, aero helmet and a bunch of other light and aero stuff would actually be going backwards and pedaling negative watts by letting their chain get dirty and going to 'normal' not aero gear.
 

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ALL of these studies should be taken, not for their actual watt promises, but for the relative importance of the part/position/psi, etc. Think about... if you add up all these "free watts"...
- 20 watts for aero wheels
- 25 watts for aero helmet
- 15 watts for aero frame
- 30 watts for proper/aero position
- 50 watts for low rolling resistance tires
- 8 watts for shaving
- 10 watts for XYZ bottom bracket
- 8 watts for XYZ derailleur pulleys
- 20 watts for chain...
... You're just a credit card away from turning pro.
 

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I cleaned and lubed my chain then went for groceries and didn't even have to pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my best times on the bike are often after a bike has been cleaned and tune up. lot of silly ways to improve one's bike performance, this isn't one of them, dirty old chain and worn cassette eat power.
 

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That must be over a chain essentially rusted stiff. You've got to have a horrendous chain to save 30 watts.

Probably closer to low single digits for most people who have a modicum of common sense.
 

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Funny as I just replaced my chain about 2 weeks ago.

I looked at my power curve and don't see any 30w jumps anywhere in the curve...should I demand a refund?

It's wattage saved at a specific speed. How is equipment going to increase the amount of power you put out? Thinking and all...
 

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The BMX cruiser I just saved from going into the trash will probably gain 30 watts from the chain
 

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I use molten speed wax. I rotate chains almost at the end of every month. Once you have the waxing system set up its very easy to do. I will never go back to regular lube again.
 

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ALL of these studies should be taken, not for their actual watt promises, but for the relative importance of the part/position/psi, etc. Think about... if you add up all these "free watts"...
- 20 watts for aero wheels
- 25 watts for aero helmet
- 15 watts for aero frame
- 30 watts for proper/aero position
- 50 watts for low rolling resistance tires
- 8 watts for shaving
- 10 watts for XYZ bottom bracket
- 8 watts for XYZ derailleur pulleys
- 20 watts for chain...
... You're just a credit card away from turning pro.
yeah where is the watt savings from spending an extra $10k to get the bike 3 lbs lighter? On the flat it might be 0 watts, hehe

though I did take his advice on tires, and pleasantly surprised with the results. I was using some very draggy tires.
 
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