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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, tried the search, but did not see anything come up that answered my questions. If you have links excellent, if not any insight is greatly appreciated.

I picked up a used Opera Giorgione recently. I can still return it, but looks good so far to me.

I was wondering what exactly I should be looking for when checking the frame?

The frame seems straight, no dings or kinks in any tubes, etc. The CF looks clean too. I mounted one of my wheel sets on the frame and those go in pretty easily and seem to track straight as well. This frame has the semi-horizontal rear dropouts with adjustment screws. Are those screws meant to help align the rear wheel?

I guess my last question is how can I check the serial number on the frame? Is there some database that would give the model year or something? I see on the BB "Opera xxx 00". If common sense was used in the numbering system I would say this means it is frame number xxx built in 2000?

Off to shop for group sets, bars, seat, etc. I have ripped apart my Specialized Allez and put it back together, but this should be alot more fun!
 

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Resident Curmudgeon
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Solopc said:
This frame has the semi-horizontal rear dropouts with adjustment screws. Are those screws meant to help align the rear wheel?
The screws have two functions; one is to align the wheel, the other is to change the wheel base a little if you'd like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mr. Versatile said:
The screws have two functions; one is to align the wheel, the other is to change the wheel base a little if you'd like.
Was away for a couple days and just saw your response. Thank you!

I did more reading after making my initial post, and I think I will try to find a frame builder who would be willing to make any minor adjustment the frame might require before putting any parts on it.
 

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Diesel Engine
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898 Posts
I check for a few things with any used frame:

1. Damage (sounds like you have done a decent check so far) - check for any paint rippling around the head tube junctions and around the bottom bracket at a minimum. Rippling or obvious cracks in the paint would be a sign of impact or stress to the structure below. I also check for any bulging of the BB shell which can happen with overtightening - with a bare frame this is pretty easy with a nice flat surface to put the BB shell on (or use a metal ruler).
2. Threads - if possible thread the BB, rear derailleur, seat binder and bottle cage bolts in by hand to make sure the threads in the frame are not damaged.
3. Fork - I visually inspect (especially carbon forks) the droputs/legs/steerer for any damage. If in doubt replace the fork as fork failure seldom if ever has a good outcome. Roll the steerer along a flat surface to make sure it is straight.
4. Alignment - a good bike shop can check the alignment of the overall frame, the dropout faces and the derailleur hanger for you. A simple check is to tie a string to one rear dropout, run it alongside the bike and around the head tube to the same spot on the opposite rear dropout (make sure there is tension on the string). Measure the distance from the string to the seat tube on either side, it should be the same. Steel (and to a lesser degree aluminum) can be re-aligned by a good shop or framebuilder. If the dropouts or rear hanger are out of line the shifting will be affected - a good shop can easily take care of this (or the hanger can be replaced).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Mike!

I got a big check on number 1. I even used my caliper to check the width of the BB and it was good all around, no bulging either.

As for the rest I will get to that too. And I decided to use a trusted resource to align the frame if need be. I took a weekend bike mechanics course at his school and will be doing a full weekend wheel building course with him too in the future. He use to build handmade frames, so hopefully he will take a look at my frame and adjust it if needed.

Your response is greatly appreciated!
 
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