[One Wheel]

I'm planning to buy a "forever" or "last" bike in the next year or so, I'm thinking it's worth getting a fit to make sure I buy the right size bike. A quick Google search shows several places within a few hours drive with a variety of services and price points, but I don't know what to look for.

1. Generally what should I look for when picking somebody to do a bike fit?

2. Specifically, I'm located about 2 hours drive west of Madison, WI. Is there anybody you would recommend roughly in the radius of Madison-Dubuque, IA-Rochester, MN?

 

[Low rider]

how about just try some bikes that are different sizes and chose what you like? especially as you get older youre going change what will fit you comfortably.

 

[One Wheel]

how about just try some bikes that are different sizes and chose what you like? especially as you get older youre going change what will fit you comfortably.

I'm a little hesitant to do that because the frame I've ridden for the last 2 years is obviously too big for me (5'9", 60cm frame) but until I had ridden for about 2 hours in a single ride I could have told you with complete sincerity that it fit me just fine. I've done several 3+ hour rides, and one 8+ hour, and I can now say confidently that it's the wrong size. I could probably pick up quicker on those clues now, but I don't know how quickly.

 

[Princeton_Tiger]

A couple basic "rules of thumb" that I use when trying out a new bike; Start with the right frame size, or something close. I'm 5'11" and a 56mm or 58mm frame works for me (I have both), as well as 170 or 172.5 crankarms (I also have both, in addition to a fixie with 165 cranks, but that was originally set up for track use). Set the saddle at mid-height and mid-forward/aft position. Then knees should be slightly bent with pedals at 6:00, sight-line of the handlebar should line up with front axle when riding on the hoods with arms slightly bent. Make adjustments to the saddle height as necessary, but not to the extent that it is at an extreme position. You want to be able to make further adjustments if needed.

 

[One Wheel]

A couple basic "rules of thumb" that I use when trying out a new bike; Start with the right frame size, or something close. I'm 5'11" and a 56mm or 58mm frame works for me (I have both), as well as 170 or 172.5 crankarms (I also have both, in addition to a fixie with 165 cranks, but that was originally set up for track use). Set the saddle at mid-height and mid-forward/aft position. Then knees should be slightly bent with pedals at 6:00, sight-line of the handlebar should line up with front axle when riding on the hoods with arms slightly bent. Make adjustments to the saddle height as necessary, but not to the extent that it is at an extreme position. You want to be able to make further adjustments if needed.

As detailed above, I'm not confident in my ability to get close. If I was planning to buy a $1,000 bike I would agree that it's not worth spending money on a professional fit, but I'm hoping to spend closer to $4,000 including a frame that's worth upgrading in the future. A few hundred dollars extra to get a frame that's exactly what I need right now with room for future adjustment seems like a worthwhile investment.

 

[One Wheel]

Oops. Double post.

 

[cxwrench]

You could go to 5 different 'bike fitters' and end up with 5 distinctly different set-ups. You need to find someone that understands then type of riding you plan on doing and is comfortable doing fittings for that. Some fitters are very caught up in 'racing' fits and will set up most of their clients in a similar way. I worked with a guy for years that thought every custom frame he did a fitting for needed a head tube extension. I'm surprised that the frame builders would actually make some of these frames. Ask around when you're riding w/ groups, see what others have to say about this. And of course ignore lowrider's advice. If you knew what you wanted you'd just buy it or have it made.

 

[Lombard]

You need to find someone that understands then type of riding you plan on doing and is comfortable doing fittings for that. Some fitters are very caught up in 'racing' fits and will set up most of their clients in a similar way.

Very good point here.

And of course ignore lowrider's advice. If you knew what you wanted you'd just buy it or have it made.

^^^This.^^^ This thread he started and continues to troll says it all:

You all would benefit from a lower top tube you just...

this way too small mtb with a high riser stem results in much more unobstructed leg movement. I’m getting a custom road/gravel frame made (in titanium) that’s similar with a highly sloping top tube and short headtube. why do road bikes even have a high top tube and mountain bikes show they can...

www.roadbikereview.com

 

[One Wheel]

You could go to 5 different 'bike fitters' and end up with 5 distinctly different set-ups. You need to find someone that understands then type of riding you plan on doing and is comfortable doing fittings for that. Some fitters are very caught up in 'racing' fits and will set up most of their clients in a similar way. I worked with a guy for years that thought every custom frame he did a fitting for needed a head tube extension. I'm surprised that the frame builders would actually make some of these frames. Ask around when you're riding w/ groups, see what others have to say about this. And of course ignore lowrider's advice. If you knew what you wanted you'd just buy it or have it made.

I don't even know what questions to ask of bike fitters. My local shop is run by mountain bikers who are skeptical of the value of a professional fit. I'm in a rural area, and busy every morning and evening. All of my group experience is getting friends of mine to ride midday. The one guy I've ridden with who strongly recommended a fit did his several years ago when he lived in California, and it's not worth a ~4,000 mile round trip to his fitter.

I mostly ride 1-3 hours at a time with occasional longer rides. I like riding pavement, and have quite a lot of nice rural roads to ride, an I hope to get a bike that is capable of venturing onto some of the local gravel roads as well. I like going fast and wouldn't mind trying my hand at some racing, but at 35 and with the natural athletic talent of a pineapple I won't be racing to win. Local hills are mostly in the 2-400' vertical x 0.5-3 mile horizontal range: some punchy climbs, and enough going down that I sometimes spin out in my current top 53x11 gear.

So what kind of riding is that? And barring finding somebody who knows somebody, how do I find somebody who can help me with that as opposed to somebody who just says they can help me?

Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm genuinely a bit confused.

 

[Lombard]

Being in a rural area certainly limits the number of bike shops you can go to for advice. Not sure what the answer is if you don't have time to travel.

 

[cxwrench]

What Lombard said...where are you? I might know someone that's reasonably close to you. And spinning out 53/11? Really? At 120 rpm, which should not be considered 'spun out' that's over 45mph.

 

[One Wheel]

Being in a rural area certainly limits the number of bike shops you can go to for advice. Not sure what the answer is if you don't have time to travel.

I've found a handful of fitters within what I would consider driving distance, nobody close enough I want to drive there just to say hi:

Bikes Bikes Bikes

www.bikesbikesbikes.com

Biodynamic Bike Fit — Cronometro

www.cronometro.com

About us

Bike Shop In Holmen Wisconsin

www.onyourleftcycles.org

Bike Fit

www.bicyclesportsinc.com

What Lombard said...where are you? I might know someone that's reasonably close to you. And spinning out 53/11? Really? At 120 rpm, which should not be considered 'spun out' that's over 45mph.

SW Wisconsin, between LaCrosse and Prairie du Chien, closer to Prairie. I don't spin out every ride, but most rides I'll hit 40 mph at some point. My record is I think 54.6 mph. I'm usually most comfortable at a slower cadence: 70-80 rpm. 110-120 is about as fast as I can comfortably go. I think running flat pedals may be conducive to a slower cadence?

 

[Low rider]

I'm a little hesitant to do that because the frame I've ridden for the last 2 years is obviously too big for me (5'9", 60cm frame) but until I had ridden for about 2 hours in a single ride I could have told you with complete sincerity that it fit me just fine. I've done several 3+ hour rides, and one 8+ hour, and I can now say confidently that it's the wrong size. I could probably pick up quicker on those clues now, but I don't know how quickly.

what specifically you feel isnt a good fit between you and the 60cm frame? too long when seated? too long when standing? top tube too high and you wish it would disappear?!


i had a 60 something frame if not longer, and im 5'8" with longer legs. it was an old steel pearl colored olmo with a short stem.quill stem as typical. it wasnt a long bike.. other than having no standover clearance it was nice. turbo saddle.


i havent read any of the answers above as dont want to tarnish my clear view.


ok i read a bit. whatever bike you get raise the saddle until you just tip over your maximum cadence possible. a formula grounded in reality not made up numbers..

 

[One Wheel]

what specifically you feel isnt a good fit between you and the 60cm frame? too long when seated? too long when standing? top tube too high and you wish it would disappear?!


i had a 60 something frame i really liked but it was an old steel pearl olmo with an 80s style short quil stem. it wasnt long. other than having no standover clearance it was nice. turbo saddle.

To long seated, mostly. I notice on the smaller (54) frame I'm also closer to the ground and therefore more confident on rougher surfaces.

 

[Low rider]

To long seated, mostly. I notice on the smaller (54) frame I'm also closer to the ground and therefore more confident on rougher surfaces.

closer to the ground and therefore more confident you say. this pic is 70mm bottom bracket drop and common. maybe your bottom bracket is lower. maybe you mean youre more elongated and in a racier position when youre "closer to the ground". what do you mean closer to the ground?

what are the rough surfaces you'd ride?




we're pretty close in size. you can adjust stem angle and length, but you really still want to be in the 11 to 12cm specific spot. chose based on that goal.

or maybe even 13cm. maybe 11cm stem. beyong that it's awkward. stem rise on the other hand is all good and no ill effects one way or the other. so it seems.

id get 55cm top tube and do an 11 or 10 mm stem if new to riding and you'll likely grow into the 12cm . or try 54.5 top tube or 54. that's how i approach it.

i skimmed above. forget all my questions and see others asked. ive been riding flat pedals for 2 years after riding clipless and racing for like.30 years. unless youre racing and sprinting its not worth it. and was just watchin youtube vids comparing performance. . if not sprinting and racing they're a hassle. you have the same control pretty much. other than being able to really hop.but there's no obstacles on the road

 

[Lombard]

i had a 60 something frame if not longer, and im 5'8" with longer legs.

Size 60 is way too large for someone 5' 8". You're most likely a 54, possibly 56.

 

[One Wheel]

what do you mean closer to the ground?

what are the rough surfaces you'd ride?

I think most of "closer to the ground" is a lower seat tube angle. On the larger frame I also had my handlebars set higher than my seat.

Rough surfaces would be light gravel.

 

[Kerry Irons]

I sometimes spin out in my current top 53x11 gear.

Simply be aware that above roughly 35 mph, you can go just as fast in a tight tuck as you can when pedaling. In a tight tuck you cut your aero drag by a third, and that means that you pedaling position requires a lot more power at these high speeds. Unless you are a really gifted rider, that 53/11 is surplus to requirements.

 

[One Wheel]

Simply be aware that above roughly 35 mph, you can go just as fast in a tight tuck as you can when pedaling. In a tight tuck you cut your aero drag by a third, and that means that you pedaling position requires a lot more power at these high speeds. Unless you are a really gifted rider, that 53/11 is surplus to requirements.

35 mph in still wind is 55 mph with a 20 mph tailwind, except 55 requires higher gearing. I'm not above sniping a good tailwind to win a local downhill Strava segment or two.

 

[ogre]

And spinning out 53/11? Really? At 120 rpm, which should not be considered 'spun out' that's over 45mph.

And at 150 rpm that would be over 58 mph.