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Choosing A Bike Fitter

3633 Views 45 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  One Wheel
I'm planning to buy a "forever" or "last" bike in the next year or so, I'm thinking it's worth getting a fit to make sure I buy the right size bike. A quick Google search shows several places within a few hours drive with a variety of services and price points, but I don't know what to look for.

1. Generally what should I look for when picking somebody to do a bike fit?

2. Specifically, I'm located about 2 hours drive west of Madison, WI. Is there anybody you would recommend roughly in the radius of Madison-Dubuque, IA-Rochester, MN?
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how about just try some bikes that are different sizes and chose what you like? especially as you get older youre going change what will fit you comfortably.
I'm a little hesitant to do that because the frame I've ridden for the last 2 years is obviously too big for me (5'9", 60cm frame) but until I had ridden for about 2 hours in a single ride I could have told you with complete sincerity that it fit me just fine. I've done several 3+ hour rides, and one 8+ hour, and I can now say confidently that it's the wrong size. I could probably pick up quicker on those clues now, but I don't know how quickly.
what specifically you feel isnt a good fit between you and the 60cm frame? too long when seated? too long when standing? top tube too high and you wish it would disappear?!:unsure:

i had a 60 something frame if not longer, and im 5'8" with longer legs. it was an old steel pearl colored olmo with a short stem.quill stem as typical. it wasnt a long bike.. other than having no standover clearance it was nice. turbo saddle.

i havent read any of the answers above as dont want to tarnish my clear view.:unsure:

ok i read a bit. whatever bike you get raise the saddle until you just tip over your maximum cadence possible. a formula grounded in reality not made up numbers..
To long seated, mostly. I notice on the smaller (54) frame I'm also closer to the ground and therefore more confident on rougher surfaces.
closer to the ground and therefore more confident you say. this pic is 70mm bottom bracket drop and common. maybe your bottom bracket is lower. maybe you mean youre more elongated and in a racier position when youre "closer to the ground". what do you mean closer to the ground?

what are the rough surfaces you'd ride?

we're pretty close in size. you can adjust stem angle and length, but you really still want to be in the 11 to 12cm specific spot. chose based on that goal.

or maybe even 13cm. maybe 11cm stem. beyong that it's awkward. stem rise on the other hand is all good and no ill effects one way or the other. so it seems.

id get 55cm top tube and do an 11 or 10 mm stem if new to riding and you'll likely grow into the 12cm . or try 54.5 top tube or 54. that's how i approach it.

i skimmed above. forget all my questions and see others asked. ive been riding flat pedals for 2 years after riding clipless and racing for like.30 years. unless youre racing and sprinting its not worth it. and was just watchin youtube vids comparing performance. . if not sprinting and racing they're a hassle. you have the same control pretty much. other than being able to really hop.but there's no obstacles on the road


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I think most of "closer to the ground" is a lower seat tube angle. On the larger frame I also had my handlebars set higher than my seat.

Rough surfaces would be light gravel.
a lower seat tube angle, or higher maybe would be the right term, wont bring you lower to the ground really assuming you end up with the same saddle height. I like a very setback seatpost and big angle on the seat tube as it puts me in a more relaxed position and even enables me to lean farther over and not have more weight on the bars.

having a lower bottom bracket does make the bike more stable and even a cm there will make a very big difference. if youre bombing down hills and wanting stability a lower bottom bracket would be good.
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