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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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First off, nice work. Looks like the bikes cleaned up well.

I have a few suggestions for you, I hope not to offend.

1. You don't need to start new threads for the same bike. When you find a bike, if you want to post it, post it. Then when you clean the bike, or find out some new information, keep it in the same thread. It's much easier to follow the progress of the bike this way, and it doesn't clutter the forum with random threads.

2. You don't need to end every other sentence with 'ha ha' or LOL. It's weird, actually. It projects a very immature tone (not saying you are immature, absolutely not). If you write something that you want people to clearly understand as a joke or in jest, then add a smiley face.

3. Move the bottle cage on the Trek to the downtube. Or take it off entirely.

Good luck flipping those bikes.
 

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Is that a Cinelli Unicanitor saddle on the Nishiki?
 

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Shrink the photos down a bit, as well. I have a 24" widescreen, and they still scroll off. Also, the cabling on the Trek top tube is really fubared. Route it on top and on the same side as the brake arm.

Sounds like you are planning on flipping them, if so, new tires and tape go a long way to maximizing your profit.

Mapie, no, it's not a Unicanitor, It's a Selle Italia
 

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Nice. Makes me wonder what-where the Nishiki Presitige I had back in the 80's is now. That seems so long ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah next time Im gonna take pics in the 2-3 mpixel range.

Correct it is a Selle Italia, probably one I will keep.

Tires and tape are on order. Thank you for the recommendation.

What do you mean by the fubar cabling?

Thanks
 

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MikesChevelle said:
What do you mean by the fubar cabling?

Thanks
The cable goes over the top tube from the right and then runs alongside the left of the top tube and then back to the right to the brake arm. Try running the cabling on top of the top tube and not crossing over. will tidy things up a bit. You might want to rotate the handlebars forward a few degrees as well.
 

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kiwisimon said:
The cable goes over the top tube from the right and then runs alongside the left of the top tube and then back to the right to the brake arm. Try running the cabling on top of the top tube and not crossing over. will tidy things up a bit. You might want to rotate the handlebars forward a few degrees as well.
Also cables normally go behind the bars, not in front.
 

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my suggestions:
1) smaller pics
2) remove dork disks
3) definitely need new tires on both bikes
4) on the Nishiki, is that rust on the handlebars and rims? rebuilding the rear wheelset would be pricey if you're gonna flip it, that might bring your price down a bit, but wouldn't be cost effective as new owner might want different wheels from what you put on there. you can find used drop bars cheap, try your LBS or if there's a local bike co-op in your area.
5) can't tell about the chain on the Nishiki from the pics, but chain looks rusty. A good scrub, fresh oil, and a good ride might help.
6) I'd remove the frame pump holder on the Trek.

again, great finds!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
josephr said:
my suggestions:
1) smaller pics
2) remove dork disks
3) definitely need new tires on both bikes
4) on the Nishiki, is that rust on the handlebars and rims? rebuilding the rear wheelset would be pricey if you're gonna flip it, that might bring your price down a bit, but wouldn't be cost effective as new owner might want different wheels from what you put on there. you can find used drop bars cheap, try your LBS or if there's a local bike co-op in your area.
5) can't tell about the chain on the Nishiki from the pics, but chain looks rusty. A good scrub, fresh oil, and a good ride might help.
6) I'd remove the frame pump holder on the Trek.

again, great finds!
1) Agreed :D
2) Waiting on a tool kit to get the cassettes off properly
3) On order
4) No, the rims are in great shape, they are an anodized bronze/gold color, so I wont need to rebuild the rear wheelset.
5) Chain was rusty, scrubbed it the best I could, looks really good actually now, just the pic didnt do it justice.
6) I kinda like the pump holder, but well see :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I am into each bike for $50 a piece, tires, tubes and bar tape are going to run $40-$60 per bike, So Im into each bike for $100ish a piece. What do you think they could go for after a rubber and bar refresh?

Thanks
 

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wth is going on with the bottle cage on the Trek...? the cloth shims, extra long bolts are nasty.

just take the whole thing off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That was the way it came, I kinda like the retro appeal of the cloth, but yeah those bolts WILL go
 

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Oxtox said:
wth is going on with the bottle cage on the Trek...? the cloth shims, extra long bolts are nasty.

just take the whole thing off.
+1

Also, if I were to mount just one cage, it would be on the down tube, not the seat tube.

Seems as though you are a kid who is trying to get into bikes and flipping to get what you want, no harm in that at all, it's netted me a nice stable of bikes over the past years.

Take some advice from a 'semi-pro' bike flipper. Buy tools first, it will make your life easier in the long run.

Completely disassemble and rebuild every bike you flip, it will also make your life easier in the long run.

Buy in bulk, 50-100 brake cables don't cost much more than 10, bought one at a time.

Pay attention to detail, no matter how nice a bike you have, if there is a rusty chain or misrouted cable, it will nullify whatever else you've done right.

When selling, let the bikes sell themselves, don't embellish the polished turd you have, and don't sell people bikes that don't fit. They'll hate you and tell their friends. If you treat them right, they will send their friends to you to get a new bike. Most of the used bikes I sell are through recommendations from former customers.

Do a good job and in a few years you'll be trying to figure out which De Rosa to ride today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you, I do have alot to learn, but this is fun so far :D
 
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