Which is just as silly as actually removing your chain and soaking it in simple green or anything else for that matter.
Cleaning Waxed Chains
I wax my chain with Wend Products. I use an Ultrasonic Cleaner to clean them. Chains are put in small Ziploc freezer bags covered in cleaner. Water is heated to 50 deg. C. I've been using Simple Green Pro HD at 3:1 in the baggie with the chain.... the thing is, it doesn't seem to clean very well. If I use brake clean in a oil pan it works great, but not drain friendly or cost effective.
What are you guys using to clean your waxed chains??? Especially if you use Wend.
What are you guys using to clean your waxed chains??? Especially if you use Wend.
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I put electrolytes in mine and put in my bottle.
If your worried about disposal, take it to a waste treatment facility or don't use it.
If your worried about disposal, take it to a waste treatment facility or don't use it.
I drop all my dirty chains in a shallow tub of "oil eater" (or similar solvent) then strap an old palm sander to side and let it vibrate. Annihilates the dirt stuck between rollers and plates in an expeditious manner. Dump the oily waste into container that goes to auto part store oil recycling.
Not a lot of love for hot waxing chains here, but I'm all for it. I use generic bars of paraffin wax. Inexpensive and effective. Runs super smooth and keeps drivetrain very clean. Crockpot half a dozen of them together and exchange every 300-400 miles. Quick links have made swapping chains a breeze. Trick to hot wax chains is to make sure they are squeaky clean prior to waxing. Then it'll penetrate between rollers / plates properly
Not a lot of love for hot waxing chains here, but I'm all for it. I use generic bars of paraffin wax. Inexpensive and effective. Runs super smooth and keeps drivetrain very clean. Crockpot half a dozen of them together and exchange every 300-400 miles. Quick links have made swapping chains a breeze. Trick to hot wax chains is to make sure they are squeaky clean prior to waxing. Then it'll penetrate between rollers / plates properly
I've been waxing my chains with melted paraffin for the last few years, and the chains and drive trains last much longer, especially on my gravel bike. We have very dry dusty and sandy conditions where I ride, and a wet lube rapidly becomes a grinding paste. Like the OP, I find wax has greatly improved everything.
To clean it, I wipe off the chain with a paper towel. There is rarely anything significant to wipe off.
That's it.
I rotate chains and reapply melted wax about every 3 weeks to 1 month. I just heat the wax up in a small electric crock pot, dump the chain in, let it reach thermal equilibrium, and swish it around in the molten wax for a few minutes with a screwdriver, which also has the effect of cleaning the chain. Then I pull it out, and hang it up to drip-dry. When it is cool, I put it back on the bike.
The only time I use any solvent is when I am cleaning off the oil that the chain comes packaged in. I probably don't even need to do that, but I prefer to keep it from contaminating the wax.
To clean it, I wipe off the chain with a paper towel. There is rarely anything significant to wipe off.
That's it.
I rotate chains and reapply melted wax about every 3 weeks to 1 month. I just heat the wax up in a small electric crock pot, dump the chain in, let it reach thermal equilibrium, and swish it around in the molten wax for a few minutes with a screwdriver, which also has the effect of cleaning the chain. Then I pull it out, and hang it up to drip-dry. When it is cool, I put it back on the bike.
The only time I use any solvent is when I am cleaning off the oil that the chain comes packaged in. I probably don't even need to do that, but I prefer to keep it from contaminating the wax.
Don't do that! You're not allowed to put solvents into oil recycling. Only oil. When you do that, you contaminate the entire oil barrel making it hazardous waste.I drop all my dirty chains in a shallow tub of "oil eater" (or similar solvent) then strap an old palm sander to side and let it vibrate. Annihilates the dirt stuck between rollers and plates in an expeditious manner. Dump the oily waste into container that goes to auto part store oil recycling.
Managing Used Oil: Answers to Frequent Questions for Businesses | US EPA
Information for businesses such as service stations, fleet maintenance facilities, and "quick lube" shops that generate and handle used oil. Includes regulatory requirements for storing oil, preventing and managing spills and leaks, and record keeping.
www.epa.gov
Motor oil that's been mixed with other fluids (either accidentally or purposefully) isn't recyclable, so take care not to let yours mingle with washer fluid, gasoline, or any other liquid (water included). Make sure your storage container has never been used to store other fluids at any point, even if it was a long time ago.
Anything petroleum based I decant for reuse. The sediment I let air dry (outside) and then throw away. In 30 years I am now on my second gallon of Toluene / Xylene.I got a question regarding disposal. What the hell do you guys do with the dirty cleaner???? I mean, I'm hoping you guys just don't dump it down the public sewer, in your trashcan, in your neighbor's backyard, or water the plant with it!
Inquiring mind wants to know
+1 for home brew. My personal mix is 4:1 chainsaw bar oil and mineral spirits (paint thinner). I have read that the bar oil is designed not to "sling" and stays put better than motor oil, but have not seen any empirical data to on this. I apply and wipe every couple of rides, quick and easy. While the chain pretty much stay immaculate on pavement, it get "furry" fast in dusty conditions.First off, I don't use wax lubes (or dry lubes as some call them). The myth that they repel dirt couldn't be further from the truth. They turn gummy and nasty. They also don't lube and protect anywhere near as well or for as long as oil based "wet" lubes.
Use some kind of solvent like mineral spirits to clean that [email protected] off. Then lube with an oil based lube. There are many good oil based "wet" lubes available, but they are all no better than a home brew of 50% synthetic motor oil and 50% mineral spirits which is what I use every 500 miles.
The key to keeping your chain clean is to wipe your chain down well after lubing and then wipe it down again after the first ride. There is no practical reason to remove your chain for cleaning. When you lube, the half mineral spirits in the lube acts as a cleaner and gets most of the gunk off. It doesn't need to sparkle. Oh, and I got over 6000 miles out of my last chain.
That said, reading this thread because I am considering giving wax lube a try just to see if I am missing something...
.... your turning down the wrong road.
If it's a true wax product. Make a pot of boiled water and pour it over the chain, the wax will rinse off. Dry and relax.
Has anybody here tried wax and gone back to oil? There seems to be a pretty clear divide between the people who use wax and swear by it vs the people who don't and swear at it. I've only used oil (lower entry barrier) but the arguments for wax make good intuitive sense to me while the arguments against it don't. I'm strongly tempted to watch local rummage sales for a small crock pot and give it a go.
I've only just started, but I think it's great. The first clean is laborious, after the though it's a 10 minute job if you time it right.
I've tried wax lubes and chain life was terrible. No interest in the hot wax thing - not worth the time and hassle for no better chain life than oil.Has anybody here tried wax and gone back to oil? There seems to be a pretty clear divide between the people who use wax and swear by it vs the people who don't and swear at it. I've only used oil (lower entry barrier) but the arguments for wax make good intuitive sense to me while the arguments against it don't. I'm strongly tempted to watch local rummage sales for a small crock pot and give it a go.
So you haven't tried hot wax, but don't believe the claims about longer chain life, etc.?I've tried wax lubes and chain life was terrible. No interest in the hot wax thing - not worth the time and hassle for no better chain life than oil.
No and no. I can get 8K miles out of my oil based homebrew every 500 miles. How many extra miles do you think you can get out of your chain by hot waxing and how often would you have to do it?So you haven't tried hot wax, but don't believe the claims about longer chain life, etc.?
I have.Has anybody here tried wax and gone back to oil? There seems to be a pretty clear divide between the people who use wax and swear by it vs the people who don't and swear at it. I've only used oil (lower entry barrier) but the arguments for wax make good intuitive sense to me while the arguments against it don't. I'm strongly tempted to watch local rummage sales for a small crock pot and give it a go.
Many years ago, and found it to be too much work for too little return. I'm using home brew these days, and while many claim that there have been "improvements" due to technology and additives, I have no inclination to bother with it again.
No idea. Right now I'm getting very roughly 1-2k miles out of a chain, lubing every 50-200 miles, depending on conditions, with basic commercial oil-based lube.No and no. I can get 8K miles out of my oil based homebrew every 500 miles. How many extra miles do you think you can get out of your chain by hot waxing and how often would you have to do it?
1-2K miles is very low. I am guessing one or more of the following:No idea. Right now I'm getting very roughly 1-2k miles out of a chain, lubing every 50-200 miles, depending on conditions, with basic commercial oil-based lube.
1) You ride in rain or very dirt dusty conditions a lot.
2)You aren't putting a drop on each link when you lube.
3) You aren't wiping the chain thoroughly after lubing.
I'm clearly doing something wrong. I don't usually ride in poor weather, so I don't think that's it. I usually squirt lube on the rollers as I turn the pedals, so the whole chain gets coated, and then wipe it down. Sometimes when I have the chain off to clean it I drip lube on the whole length of a hanging chain, and/ or articulate each link of an overlubed chain in a dish.1-2K miles is very low. I am guessing one or more of the following:
1) You ride in rain or very dirt dusty conditions a lot.
2)You aren't putting a drop on each link when you lube.
3) You aren't wiping the chain thoroughly after lubing.
How are you determining the chain is wore out, what tool are you using?No idea. Right now I'm getting very roughly 1-2k miles out of a chain, lubing every 50-200 miles, depending on conditions, with basic commercial oil-based lube.
I'm just eyeballing, but my LBS has a Park Tool CC-2 that they'll check it with.How are you determining the chain is wore out, what tool are you using?
Is there any good rule of thumb or tool for lateral/ torsional flex? My mountain bike wasn't shifting right, and it took them a couple of times over the bike to figure out that the chain had too much lateral flex despite not being stretched lengthwise. A new chain solved the problem. My current road chain only has about 500 miles, but the most recent of those were really harsh, gritty gravel miles. It's spot on according to the ruler test, but there's 180 degrees of both torsional and lateral free play in the length of the chain, which seems really floppy.
21 - 40 of 73 Posts
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