[atp]

bottom bracket (i think) clicks once per revolution on crank side, at about 3 oclock position. d/a 9 spd cranks, bb, parkpre frame. all greased and adjusted recently.

suggestions..?

 

[the bull]

are you sure it is the bb?
Could be pedals or cleats.

When you say adjusted recently were they trying to fix the creak, or was someone in there and now it is creaking?

 

[cthomas]

Could be anything...

I just chased the same type issue for several weeks. The obvious first step is to pull, clean, grease, and reinstall the BB. Then do the same with the cranks. Make sure torque is to spec. Make sure you also pull the pedals as well. These need regreased and tighted to spec.

However, this did NOT fix my click. I eventually chased it down to the front derailleur/clamp. When I had the bike on the stand I accidentially nudged the FD and heard a click. I found it would move very slightly and click. I pulled it as well, cleaned it, put a light coat of grease on it, and reinstalled. Clicking gone.

(Well, it wasn't really gone). The first ride I had another click and only at the 3 o'clock position. I was ready to junk my custom Seven in the middle of a ride. Took me five miles to look down and realize the rear cadence sensor had moved and was hitting the magnet.

Bottom line...while the BB/Cranks/Pedals are the most likey source, you also need to check other places, including your seatpost, saddle rails, stem, etc.

 

[Macho Man Savage]

I had this problem last year. It was the chain ring bolts. Took them out, cleaned them up, and clicking was gone.

 

[odeum]

make sure you have the limit screw adjustment for the outer limit of the front derailer correct so it is not hitting the inside of the crank arm!
esp. when cranking/flexing...

bottom bracket (i think) clicks once per revolution on crank side, at about 3 oclock position. d/a 9 spd cranks, bb, parkpre frame. all greased and adjusted recently.

suggestions..?

 

[Durandal]

If none of this fixes the click, then it might be the frame. During welding (and to a lesser extent, brazing.) the heat can pull at and distort the joint. This is most often seen in the BB cluster because the large amount of materiel acts like a heat sink, therein requiring more heat. When the builder chases the threads it results in an oval, but correctly threaded BB.

 

[Mashmaniac]

I had this exact problem. Chased it for a month, it was the seat!!! I tightened the seatpost clamp and it was gone. Too bad I'd spent hours tightening everything else.

 

[Notgoodbutslow]

Check your rear quick-release tension

Had the same problem last year. 2-3 o'clock ticking when I torqued the pedals. The sound transmitted through the frame and sounded like the BB had a problem. I tore my bike apart, switched cranks and OB bearings, checked pedal bearings, etc., before I realized it. Turned out the rear QR wasn't quite tight enough, and the click was the rear axle shifting within the rear dropouts. Felt pretty stupid afterwards. New external cam QRs are nowhere near as good as campy/shimano internal cams.

 

[Mr. Versatile]

Just turn the air conditioning on and the radio up. You won't even notice it.

 

[desmondj]

I had similar

bottom bracket (i think) clicks once per revolution on crank side, at about 3 oclock position. d/a 9 spd cranks, bb, parkpre frame. all greased and adjusted recently.

suggestions..?

My BB would click in the 6:00 position. While the bike was in the trainner I rocked the crank arms from side to side. Found my click. The BB was bad.