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I've experienced an annoying clicking noise from the Hollowgram crankset/bottom bracket on my Six13. I've actually had noise problems in this area ever since I got the frame, mostly when I'm cranking out of the saddle.

After the last ride, I removed the magnesium chainring bolts, greased all the threads, and reassembled everything. I haven't taken it out for a ride yet, but am cautiously hopeful that will clear up the problem (but I doubt it). The 7mm crankarm allen bolts are tight and I can't find any play in the bottom bracket, so, apart from the pedals, I don't know what else it could be.

Has anybody else had noise issues with their Hollowgram cranks &/or the proprietary Cannondale bottom brackets and have any wisdom to share?
 

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extremely biased
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You checked the obvious so thats good. The spider lockring can come loose and we usually blue loctite them and Cannodnale has started doing this from the factory. Also, check the bearings. If they are rough they will cause the click. New ones are only $30-$40 from Cannondale.

If you have a 613 with a BB30 chances are the BB bearings need to be changed out. Its a pretty simple deal.

Starnut
 

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Wouldn't hurt to check crank bolt torque. I know Cannondale had been having some issues with some coming loose. When they are new, it is recommended that torque be checked periodically as the aluminum components are seating with one another. Hopefully the tolerances between crank arm and spindle have not enlarged. Go down to your LBS and have torque checked.
 

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Do you have one of the carbon cranksets that were recalled? I'd take it to my local Cdale dealer and confirm it's not the defective crankset. In the recalled ones, the crankarm begins seperating from the spindle. Undoubtably, that would cause clicking nioses.
 

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I have a SystemSix with the FSA Carbon cranks. We confirmed that they were not part of the recall lots. I had a very slight click that I could only reproduce when standing on the pedals at horizontal on one side, and then the other. I suspected that they may be slightly loose, so I removed the crank arms (to lube and reassemble) when I noticed how grindy the bearings were. I took the bike to my Cannondale LBS to have them swap out the bearings since I don't have the proper tools. I opted to go with steel bearings since I've read some bad things about some of the ceramics and I'm not really a weight weenie. I get the bike back from the shop, take it home and before putting it away I decided to test the cranks to see if there's any noise or pop. There sure was, and the noise was much worse than before. I figure maybe they were just seating a bit and needed to be retorqued. Without a proper torque wrench, I put a little too much umph on it and ended up sheering off the crank arm contact lip of the fixing bolt. So I need a new set of bolts, but I'm wondering, since they were definitely tight enough, what was causing the 'click'. Could it be the bearing shell in the bb housing? I asked them to hold on to the old bearings so I can check them out and they seem fine/smooth out of the bike. Also, I called the mechanic to let him know what happened and mentioned that the bolt threads looked pretty bad and that we may need to get a new spindle. He said something about retapping the spindle.. he mentioned it's steel, but I'm pretty sure it's aluminum. I know that's a lot of information, but are there any ideas of what I'm facing here?
 

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I don't believe I've seen it mentioned, but check your pedals. I thought mine were tight enough and upon retightening them, the click went away! I've got hollowgrams as well and thought it was the BB, but happy it was just a pedal axle to crank arm issue.
 

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Ive got the same problem. When out of the seat it makes a clicking sound. Have had the whole bottom bracket taken apart 3 times now, each time it will stop making the sound for 1 or 2 weeks max, then starts to make it again
 

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Ive got the same problem. When out of the seat it makes a clicking sound. Have had the whole bottom bracket taken apart 3 times now, each time it will stop making the sound for 1 or 2 weeks max, then starts to make it again


THAT'S ENCOURAGING :cryin:
I just hope I'm not starting to realize what my friend meant when he called my bike a Can-it-fail.
 

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I had a slight clicking on my Super6 when I got it, I removed the cranks, lubed everything pretty generously & torqued to spec. Quiet ever since.

For some reason Cdale does not put enough grease at the BB & the headset. From now on I remove the headset & BB when I build up the bikes & lube them very well.
Works for me.
 

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doh! I had my LBS look into ordering up a new set of fixing bolts and a spindle and they said those parts are on backorder until NOVEMBER! What's up with that?!? I'm just about ready to buy a complete crankset on eBay just for the bolts and spindle.
 

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Had my super looked at for the 5th time. Was told that they can't do anything and the seals on the ceramic bearings are thin (to save weight) and **** will get in there which causes the clicking... they suggested buying new bearings.
 

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Naso Unicornis
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hammrob:

Is the bike shop reporting that the seals have been compromised and that the bearings have been contaminated? Something to consider but if the clicking noise comes from the bearings, could this be due to improper installation by having too much pressure on the bearings (too many shims).

I think there is a company called BocaBearings that make bearings with reinforced seals that could work for you if contamination is the cause.

CHL
 

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Its like I said in the 2nd post........................... get rid of those stupid ceramic bearings and get the standard ones. The standard ones are actually better anyway. If you want a ceramic Enduro make their new Zero in a 6806 size and Ceramic Speed make a 6806 as well.

Those are both true ceramics with races, balls, and retainers being ceramic. Otherwise your doing more harm than good with shite ceramic.

I work on these things everyday............... clicking hollowgrams = bad bearings.

Starnut
 

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Naso Unicornis
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It looks like it's my turn to have the clicking noise. It's strange, it only occured after I had removed a spacer because I thought the waver washer was too compressed (although it never was flat). The noise doesn't occur unless I'm really torquing the cranks and swaying the bike. The drive side crank arm is usually at 6 to 7 o'clock positio when the noise occurs. If I keep the frame straight I usually don't hear the noise.

I removed the crankarms and the dust shield from the drive side bearing. Using a needle, I removed the rubber shield for the bearing. To my surprise, there wasn't much grease in the bearing assembly. Is this normal for sealed cartridge bearings? The last time I saw this little amount of grease was in a Shimano Ultegra 6500 hub. I don't have a rubber mallet so I was not able to look at the non-drive side bearing assembly. I tried using a wooden block and a hammer but it didn't work too well. Also removed the spider, cleaned everything and went crazy with the loctite.

View attachment 136666

I packed more grease into the bearing assembly. I didn't have any special grease and used regular Phil Wood grease. Hopefully this does away with the clicking noise.

CHL
 

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Naso Unicornis
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I was wondering if anyone knew why those bearings assembly failed so early in their service life? Were they poorly made or is it a case of a hybrid solution gone bad. I was interested in in installing ceramic bearings in my Eurus wheelset but found many recommendations against the procedure. Supposedly the harder ceramic bearings cause damage to the steel races. Any truth to this hypothesis or in Cannondale's case, it's a case of poor bearing manufacturing?

CHL
 
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