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Well gang, I have just discovered racing. Wow. FUN! (especially crits) I played football in college so right now I weigh 240 pounds. I will easily be able to get down to 200 but that is still pretty big for cycling. Right now I have a really terrible fuji newest 4.0 (drop bar shifters, all my components are exploding). Anyways I really want to get a new bike! I realize test riding is the only way to really know if a bike fits but I was hoping I could get some suggestions. I am really interested in the Cervelo team soloist (aluminum) and I have also thought about the Trek Madone 4.5. 2,000 dollars is about my upper limit.
 

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Weight's probably not an issue, height might be.

I'm your weight and about 6'4", and I don't think weight is a problem ( it's going to be a problem when you're climbing, but it's not an issue for the bike). My weight in the last five years has varied from 215 to 270, and all my bikes handled it. Only recurring problem was an epidemic of broken spokes on a cheap 32-spoke wheel when I was over 260. As long as you don't go stupid light, with low-spoke count wheels and gossamer rims, you should be OK. Unless you're Superman you're going to get killed on climbs, but that will come as you lose weight.
Be careful about frame size, though. Many shops will try to sell you what they have in stock, often 60 or 62cm. If you're close to my height, try to test-ride at least one larger frame, in the 64cm range, to see how you like it. Simply adding a longer seat post to a too-small frame isn't a good solution.
Whatever you wind up with, you might consider a spare set of wheels, with 36 stout spokes, for training and everyday riding, and save the light ones for race day. You'll spend a lot less time fiddling and more time riding.
 

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Cannondale CAAD9

I'm 6'2" and 240 lbs.

Although the Cervelo Soloist is a great bike, its head and seat tube angles are a bit steep
(73 degrees); great for crit racing but perhaps a bit harsh for longer rides.

The Cannondale CAAD9 is a very sturdy aluminium frame with more "traditional" or "stage racing" geometry (72.5 seat tube and 73.5 head tube). The slightly relaxed seat tube might provide greater comfort over a longer ride.

Complete CAAD9's can be had for under $2000.00 (with Shimano 105 build). Also, the CAAD9 is made in the US at Canondale's PA factory.

Good luck!
 

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I am 187 cm tall and 105 kg - used to be 123 kg.

I have an Argon18 Platinum, which a HM carbon frame. Very stiff but does absorb or mask a fair bit of road buzz. Just wonderful, esp for crits. Runs 10 speed Ultergra, Mavic CXP 33 (32 spoke 3 cross) handbuilt wheels with Ultegra hubs, and mid range Al bars and stem. Nothing has broken despite probably about 12,000 km of hard training and racing.
 

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I am also a clydesdale at 240 Lbs. and have owned a Team Soloist (Alu) and now own a Madone 5.2. Although both are great bikes, the Soloist was very harsh over rougher roads. The Madone feels as fast as the Soloist but soaks up road imperfections much much better.
 

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Since you're a Clyde, climbing hills will most likely be an issue. The best way to compensate is to get the lightest bike possible. May I present the SPIN Project 3.3:


https://www.velonews.com/article/73034

Incredibly, this entire bike weighs a mere 7 lbs. You'll literally fly up the hills with this baby!

Of course I'm being facetious. But, when I first saw this bike, I wondered how many seconds it would last under a big & strong rider. I think you're just the man for the job! :smilewinkgrin:

Paul
 

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I have to disagree with Paul1PA. I'm 6'3", 210 lbs, and I would destroy that bike. You need durability. Hills will be hard regardless but you don't want have component failure either. That bike he's showing you wouldn't survive 25 miles with you riding it. No matter what bike you consider buying, make sure to purchase a set of 36 spoke wheels to go with it. Those will be the best for you. Mavic Open Pros with a good hub and strong spokes will be virtually bulletproof and relatively inexpensive too.
 

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terbennett said:
I have to disagree with Paul1PA. I'm 6'3", 210 lbs, and I would destroy that bike. You need durability. Hills will be hard regardless but you don't want have component failure either. That bike he's showing you wouldn't survive 25 miles with you riding it. No matter what bike you consider buying, make sure to purchase a set of 36 spoke wheels to go with it. Those will be the best for you. Mavic Open Pros with a good hub and strong spokes will be virtually bulletproof and relatively inexpensive too.
He was kidding. :p
 

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I'm right up there with you in the weight department. In my experience, Cannondales have been good, tig welded steel has generally worked, and quality Carbon fiber has performed well. Like Davidson Duke, I've had cheap frames shift gears when I stood during hard efforts and climbs due too so much flex. It's a pain and unnerving.

Right now I'm riding an Eddy Merckx Premium that is absolutely rock solid and has a rock solid fork and front end to boot. I don't know if you can get the complete bike for $2,000 but the frame is on sale at bikyle.com. You won't flex that baby, it is a pure race bike, but I would not want to take it on a Century. The Merckx Race model is said to have the same level of stiffness and exceptional geometry at a lower price point. I'm also a huge fan of Campy Proton and Neutron wheels. They're big boy approved!
 

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I'm 240+, but don't race.

Would suggest you buy 2 bikes.

A really nice comfy one for training and noodling on with nice frame and components.

And a racy, semi-disposable bike like your Fuji with crappy parts on it. Crits can quickly become bicycle graveyards on occasion.
 
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