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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched and couldn't find what I was looking for.

I just swapped from a compact crank set to standard gearing- 53 tooth big ring. When I go big/big there is not enough slack and the chain seizes. I bought a new chain to install with some extra room, but was wondering if there is a good starting place. I did the calculations and I'm supposed to add 1.3 extra links. Is it a good bet to just go with 2 extra?

Thanks for the help
 

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wrap the chain around the big+big and add 2 links for the shortest chain that is safe. You can also use the campy chain sizing where you get the longest chain possible by adjusting chainlength to have just a bit of tension in the RD in the small+small. I use the campy method
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
wrap the chain around the big+big and add 2 links for the shortest chain that is safe. You can also use the campy chain sizing where you get the longest chain possible by adjusting chainlength to have just a bit of tension in the RD in the small+small. I use the campy method
Thanks I'll probably just give both a try and see how it ends up. I won't ever be going to a bigger sprocket out back though so a big/big sizing should yield me enough room when done correctly I would think
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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i ALWAYS use the small/small method. this allows you the chance to swap to a larger cassette if you ever want to. it's also the smoothest running drivetrain in the big/big combo, which many people use every now and then.
 

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I searched and couldn't find what I was looking for.

I just swapped from a compact crank set to standard gearing- 53 tooth big ring. When I go big/big there is not enough slack and the chain seizes. I bought a new chain to install with some extra room, but was wondering if there is a good starting place. I did the calculations and I'm supposed to add 1.3 extra links. Is it a good bet to just go with 2 extra?

Thanks for the help
Chain length calculators have always seemed simultaneously overdooing it while running too big a risk of getting it wrong. Put your chain on the small chain ring and the smallest cog on your cassette. The chain should be sized so that it just removes the slack (and so that the chain is not rubbing on the underside of the rear derailleur pulley cage). You'll get it right every time.
 

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wyrd bið ful ãræd
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I went the big big combo + additional links to link up the chain method, and I just had a look at my bike and the length of my chain is the same if I had gone for the small small through the rear derailleur method. Just coincidental.

I am using 50/34 compact and a 11/28 cassette.
 

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I went the big big combo + additional links to link up the chain method, and I just had a look at my bike and the length of my chain is the same if I had gone for the small small through the rear derailleur method. Just coincidental.

I am using 50/34 compact and a 11/28 cassette.
Not really a coincidence. You're using up all the capacity of the rear derailleur (33 teeth) so you would expect to be at the limit of things. If you had a long cage rear derailleur then you would have done a longer chain with the small-small method but the same size chain with the big-big.
 
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