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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know the “which bike should I buy” threads get old but…………which bike should I buy?!!! In the end I know I need to get what makes me happy but sometimes it actually helps to see various points of view. I also realize there is no actual right answer.

The first problem is there just aren’t many options in stock. Normally I wouldn’t mind buying online but I have been away from cycling for a number of years so I would be more comfortable making sure I can get a good fit. So I have found three bikes in my area, sort of, that could work but they or different prices.

Fuji Jari 1.3. About $2000. Not super sexy but certainly capable. Seems to be a lot of value for the money.

Giant Revolt Advanced about $2400. Seems to be a great value for a carbon bike. Seems to be well liked.

BMS URS. About $2600. Definitely has the cool factor. Great looking bike. Obviously the highest priced of the three

I know all of them would do exactly what I need. I guess it is a matter of deciding between buying what I think is cool in spending the extra money, or saving some money in buying the more budget priced bike, or buy a bike because it’s carbon. Maybe I’m just wondering if there is some thing I’m not considering about these bikes. Anyway, I would love any suggestions, thoughts, or input.
 

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I know the “which bike should I buy” threads get old but…………
Yes.
If you want people to have any hope in assisting you, you need to provide the information. Provide links to the exact bikes you're referring to. You can't possibly expect someone to have first hand knowledge of 3 completely different bike brands. Or expect them to do all the research and guess which model you're looking at.
That's why these threads get old. On top of new posters signing up, making it their first post, and then never heard from again.

What model year is the Fuji?
What year Giant? What model Revolt Advanced?
What year BMC? Which model?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fair points. I guess I’m looking for more surface level conversation but I agree, more information is better.
All of these bikes are 2022 models. I’m coming back to cycling after a long absence. I was a road cyclist back in the day, as they say. Got out because of drivers with smart phones. Coming back because there are no cars on the gravel roads here.
Here is south Florida so very flat and mostly fairly smooth gravel but I’m sure there are some gnarly areas as well. Im in my mid 50’s and I’m a bigger guy. 6’0’ 230ish.
Again I think I’m really more struggling with the decision from a conceptual level. 2 of the bikes are aluminum but are $600 apart. The other is carbon. I know I am the only one that can decide but sometimes a conversation can reveal things I haven’t thought about.
And I was a member here years ago, don’t remember what name I would have used but always found it helpful. I’ll promise to contribute and not disappear. I do find forums useful because there is a lot of knowledge but also agree that participation is key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Honestly I wasn’t expecting anybody, or asking anybody to do any research...
Then you would get zero useful input. Like I said, nobody would know the individual bike specs. How could they possible help you.

First thing off the bat, two are SRAM. One is Shimano. Both are fine but they shift different. Some people prefer one over the other. Some don't care. I strongly prefer Shimano.
You should try both before you buy.

The Giant with Shimano is a 10sp drivetrain. The other two are 11sp.
10sp is fine for flat Florida. 10sp parts will be around for a quite a while but it is becoming older tech.

The Giant Shimano is a 2x chainring. The other two are 1x. Either is fine for flat Florida.

The Giant and BMC have hydro disc. The Fuji has mechanical disc.
Hydraulic disc are better. They require less maintenance. Other than bleeding. I prefer bleeding brakes over changing mechanical cables.

The Giant has a non-standard Stem. If you never change the stem, it's no big deal. But if you want a different stem, you have to find a 1-1/4 stem. They're not as common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m fine with either shifting system. I’ve used them in the past as well as Campy and they have all worked fine. I don’t know much about disc and I know hydraulic is typically preferred but I’m not sure if it is a deal breaker for me.
I do have a question about carbon I hadn’t thought of before. Is a carbon frame ok to use on a direct drive trainer? I may consider getting one down the road and just want to make sure. I guess maybe a better question would be are all of them ok in a trainer?
 

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I do have a question about carbon I hadn’t thought of before. Is a carbon frame ok to use on a direct drive trainer? I may consider getting one down the road and just want to make sure. I guess maybe a better question would be are all of them ok in a trainer?
Millions of people use carbon frames on a trainer. It's fine.
Some mfg's say not to. But most say it's ok.
If you were using a uber light weight weenie climbing road bike, perhaps there'd be concern. But a gravel bike I wouldn't be at all concerned.

 

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Those are all decent bikes, but each would be a compromise for me.

What I look for in a gravel bike:

11 speed. 10 speed is now two generations old. As time goes on quality parts will become more difficult to find. A time horizon of a year or two is no problem. Five or ten years gets to be more iffy. I own two bikes (road and gravel) with three wheel sets. Having the flexibility to choose the wheel set for the prevalent conditions is important to me, so I’ve standardized on 11 speed disc. (What’s that you say? You need only one bike? Search these forums for “n+1”.)

2x. 1x is the latest rage, but I’m not sold. If you always will be on gravel and never riding in a bunch 1x will be fine. If you think you’ll ever ride with the local club 2X will be better. This issue also goes to my interchangeability issue in that the chain length required for the broad gear range of a 1x may be an issue when swapping in a wheel from a 2X setup (I’m guessing here. I don’t really know.)

Tire size. The sweet spot for OEM tires is now ~40mm. Capacity for at least 45mm provides the flexibility to attack more difficult terrain, including deep gravel.

Disc brakes. I live in a wet place with lots of hills. Hydraulic discs are important here. Mechanical disc may well be okay for you. The choice here doesn't really affect the interchangeability mentioned in “11 speed” above. You could have one bike mechanical, the other hydraulic.

Re: the trainer. You shouldn’t have any trouble with a carbon gravel bike on a trainer. I use my old steel bike on mine, leaving my other bikes ready to be ridden.

Oh yeah, the seat post. I notice one of those bikes has a d-shaped seat post. This gets complaints from some people because it limits choice when replacement is required. My bikes both have Trek’s proprietary “seat mast” system. It hasn‘t been a problem for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That all makes sense. I appreciate the input. Some things to think about for sure. It's hard to figure out what my compromises are since I've been away from the sport so long but working through it. Thanks again.
 

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I would favor the BMC for a couple of reasons:

1) Drivetrain - SRAM Rival. This is a good mid-level drivetrain. The Fiji has SRAM Apex which is entry level. The Giant has Shimano GRX. I would not buy a bike with Shimano mechanic shifters unless you enjoy changing shift cables at least every 2000 miles. And trust me, changing internally routed cables is a royal PITA.

2) Wheels and Tires - WTB wheel and tire combos such as that on the Fugi are designed to fit really tight. I had a pair that was nearly impossible for me to mount and dismount. You don't want to find something like this out when you are 20 miles outbound on a gravel road without a cell signal.

This all being said, did you test ride any of these bikes? I would not buy any bike without test riding it first. It may be the "greatest bike" but YOU still might not like it. Do test rides and buy what you like and also what fits you best. Above all, do NOT go with the "next best size". Get your correct size.

And not to bait and switch, but have you looked at the Jamis Renegade? If you can, check that out. Excellent bike.
 

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I am biased to carbon frames so I’d go for the Giant.
All 3 bikes have ok drivetrains. Of those 3 drivetrains I would pick Shimano GRX. You will not have to change the shimano GRX shifting cables before 2000 miles as mentioned above.
Have you considered a used bike? For that kind of coin I could pick up a real sweet used gravel bike in my area.
 

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Canyon has some good bang for your buck deals and has a decent amount in stock. Plus free shipping right now.
The Grizl has 50mm tire clearance

$1700 aluminum bike

$2600 carbon bike
 

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I am biased to carbon frames so I’d go for the Giant.
All 3 bikes have ok drivetrains. Of those 3 drivetrains I would pick Shimano GRX. You will not have to change the shimano GRX shifting cables before 2000 miles as mentioned above.
I don't know how much the OP rides, but for me 2000 miles is two-thirds of a year. With externally routed cables, no big deal. Unfortuntely most bikes now have internally routed cables which are a royal PITA to change.
 

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I don't know how much the OP rides, but for me 2000 miles is two-thirds of a year. With externally routed cables, no big deal. Unfortuntely most bikes now have internally routed cables which are a royal PITA to change.
Where did you come up with this absurd idea of changing shimano shifter cables every 2000 miles?
I’ve had a few shimano bikes with over 10,000 miles on the original shifter cables. Also I ride with a lot of people with the same experience who put more miles in than me
 

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Where did you come up with this absurd idea of changing shimano shifter cables every 2000 miles?
I’ve had a few shimano bikes with over 10,000 miles on the original shifter cables. Also I ride with a lot of people with the same experience who put more miles in than me
Where did I come up with this "absurd idea"? The longest mileage I ever got out of my 6800 rear shifter cable was 2800 miles. And over the period of 10K miles, there were a few cable change intervals of 1500 miles and even one that lasted only 800 miles. At 10K miles, the right shifter finally broke and I switched to SRAM Force 22.

I'm not the only one. I've ben on a few club rides where this happened to someone else mid-ride and after not a whole lot of miles.

If you are getting 10K miles between cable changes on Shimano shifters, you either don't shift much or you are using an older generation - 5600/6600 or older when the shifter didn't wrap the cable as tight inside the shifter and fray the cable.
 

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Where did I come up with this "absurd idea"? The longest mileage I ever got out of my 6800 rear shifter cable was 2800 miles. And over the period of 10K miles, there were a few cable change intervals of 1500 miles and even one that lasted only 800 miles. At 10K miles, the right shifter finally broke and I switched to SRAM Force 22.

If you are getting 10K miles between cable changes on Shimano shifters, you either don't shift much or you are using an older generation - 5600/6600 or older when the shifter didn't wrap the cable as tight inside the shifter and fray the cable.
Shimano 9100 and Shimano 8000. The 9100 had well over 10,000 miles and I sold the bike to a buddy over a year ago and I’m guessing he’s put well over 5,000 miles on it.
I shift A LOT keeping avg cadence between 90-95.
Maybe your mechanic doesn’t know how to install cables???
 
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