Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have just recently taken delivery of my Fuji Team Issue 05. It's pretty light but I'm looking for a few grams here and there to get it down to the magic 15lb mark.

One area that seems obvious is the headset - it has an FSA integrated H/S with both compression plug and a honking great conical spacer that unfortunately forms part of the top seal. Here is the description from the Fuji site : "FSA 1 1/8" Integrated Road, with convex hollow alloy 25mm spacer". I take issue w/the lightweight statement. The spacer weighs 50g and the compression plug is another 40ish. Are there any lightweight alternatives to this setup - both compression plug and spacer?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,767 Posts
Srexy said:
I have just recently taken delivery of my Fuji Team Issue 05. It's pretty light but I'm looking for a few grams here and there to get it down to the magic 15lb mark.

One area that seems obvious is the headset - it has an FSA integrated H/S with both compression plug and a honking great conical spacer that unfortunately forms part of the top seal. Here is the description from the Fuji site : "FSA 1 1/8" Integrated Road, with convex hollow alloy 25mm spacer". I take issue w/the lightweight statement. The spacer weighs 50g and the compression plug is another 40ish. Are there any lightweight alternatives to this setup - both compression plug and spacer?
Yup. A simple search ought to net you some options on spacers. A good forum for finding an answer is Weight Weenies. That forum is very much technically oriented, moreso than RBR (This isn't a slight to RBR, just a comment on WW.). You could also PM Woz, here, or Madcow at WW (same person). He works at one of the world's greatest LBS's, and if anyone would know about yer conical spacer stuff, he would.

As for lightweight compression plug, I use the UltraStar by Extralite. I had issues w/ the Reynolds bung in my Reynolds fork, and I was/am on a quest to lighten the bike, so I threw in the Ultralite. It weighs 9g (real weight) and since the day it was installed, it's been trouble free. It cost 'round $20-$30, if I dismember correctly. Best part is that the UltraStar allowed me to use the pink topcap that came w/ my pink Chris King headset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the recommendations Alien.

Looks as if an ultrastar is in my future and I'll have to PM Madcow about the other issue. I'm thinking this may be the answer if the top caps are the same diameter internally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
You don't need the conical spacer form FSA. You can just use regular spacers.
The conical loks nice, but no bigge. I tokk my wifes off on her ride and used white carbon spacers instead to match the stem.

FSA makes a crabon version of the compression cap that's around 25g.

The Extralite UltraStar and Top Cap will run you 14g total! I ahve both in stock if you want one.




BTW: The UltraStar does not fit on Easton Carbon forks.

Compatible: standard 1'1/8, int. 23.5-24.8mm steer tubes.

Compatibile: standard M6 preload bolts.
 

·
Tourist
Joined
·
989 Posts
An alternative to what the others have replied, cheaper and lighter:
the 'beartrap' EA-HSA made by Easton. You put it below the stem. 10g, no need of compression cap / spacers on top of stem / top cap. I find it easier to adjust than a traditional compression plug.

PM me if you need one.
 

·
Defender of Freedom...
Joined
·
611 Posts
DIRT BOY said:
You don't need the conical spacer form FSA. You can just use regular spacers.
The conical loks nice, but no bigge. I tokk my wifes off on her ride and used white carbon spacers instead to match the stem.

FSA makes a crabon version of the compression cap that's around 25g.

The Extralite UltraStar and Top Cap will run you 14g total! I ahve both in stock if you want one.




BTW: The UltraStar does not fit on Easton Carbon forks.

Compatible: standard 1'1/8, int. 23.5-24.8mm steer tubes.

Compatibile: standard M6 preload bolts.
Not compatible with eastons? are you sure? I know I have seen a Scott CR1 posted with an SLX and an ultrastar. Oh well, I just ordered one I guess I'll be selling it if it's a no go on the 06 SLX.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Just to clarify - the conical spacer is also the top cap of the headset. Hard to explain but here's a pic of it off the bike. It has an o-ring that seals around the steerer tube and another o-ring that goes over the top bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
I took the compression plug out of mine, and replaced it with a cap I got at the hardware store. The cap weighs a couple of grams, and cost 45 cents. I'm a little concerned that the carbon steerer is too soft or too flexible to clamp without a plug inside it, but after a couple of hundred miles I haven't noticed any problem.
I didn't think about that cone shaped spacer, but if it weighs 37 grams, it's going to be replaced. If I don't like the way it works with an ordinary spacer, I'll look for a lighter headset.

em
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Measure the inside of your steertube. it would not fit on my 05 EC90 SL.
 

·
Defender of Freedom...
Joined
·
611 Posts
DIRT BOY said:
Measure the inside of your steertube. it would not fit on my 05 EC90 SL.
Good news it works on the new SLX forks no problems at all. The SLX must have thinner walls. Several other posters have also used them no prob on the SLXs.

JR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
I too have the same top cap, it is interchangeable with any other fsa top cap for the same integrated headset. I don't know if the lower top cap is available separately but worst case senario you could order a back up fsa headset (campy integrate 45 x 45 deg. I think) and use the top cap from it (and then you have spare headset parts, bearings etc.

jh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,934 Posts
Hmmm, my wife's Specialized Dolce came with a FSA intergrated headset with a bic conical spacer like that. But it was just a spacer. The top bearing cap is seperate from the conical spacer. here spacer fits on mt FSA HS and a Cane Creek HS.

Now I know what you are talking about. Those are what I call high-stack headsets. The conical is the top bearigns of the HS. I just orderd a slighty smaller one for my new BLUE RC6 so I could use less spacer and a cleaner look.
Your looks like the 15mm size. I just orderd the 8.7 one in the CF look.



You can order a new top race to fit the HS. Any FSA dealer can order one for you for $12. This should be all you need since you have the bearings already.

A new compression cap in CF from them is around $21
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
Are those top race parts equal for all IS headsets? I have a cane creeek IS6 with a big honking conical top (they're NOT spacers, its actually the top race), can this be replaced with a more normal minimal top like the extralight one or something like that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,536 Posts
That contraption was troublesome when i had it on my bike. Always came loose on rides. I'd have to stop, retighten my headset every 45 minutes. I switched to an FSA carbon compression plug and have had less problems.

How the beartrap works:

It sits between the stem and the headset to provide the tension on the headset bearings. It gets adjusted differently than the regular threadless headsets in that you tighten the stem to the steerer 1st and then adjust the beartrap to create bearing tension:

You place it under the stem as if it were another spacer. Make sure the beartrap serrated washers are loosely fitting on each other (not preloaded). Add the stem on top of the stack of spacer(s) and the bear trap. By hand make sure the fork and headset are relatively well-seated and tighten the stem onto the steerer tube in the position you want it. Now you can adjust headset bearing tension by using a small allen wrench to turn the screw on the beartrap. As you turn, you'll notice the serrations on the beartrap move apart, thus creating tension between the stem and steerer and thus loading the bearings. It pushes down on the headset because the stem is in a fixed position on the steerer. Stop turning the screw once you have your desired headset tension.

In theory, it should work great, but i find that after rough bumpy rides the tensioner has loosened and thus my headset is loose. I hated the bear trap. I had no confidence in the thing. But YMMV. HTH.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top