I finally got a Shimano version of the wipperman connex link to try with a Campy ultra narrow chain. The shimano version is definitely narrower on the inside width, enough that it can't be used on the older version of the Campy 10 chain. As best I can tell you can call the fit perfectly acceptable. When I install this chain, that's what I'll be using to join it.
connex link for Campy ultra narrow...
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I use a Connex on my Campy chain and was wondering what to do with the new ultra narrow. Thanks for the info. Now if I could just wear out a chain so I could upgrade to the narrow. I'm at 4500 miles and still not even .7% elongation.
Does the ultra narrow run any quieter?
Mike
Does the ultra narrow run any quieter?
Mike
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i was wondering about this myself, since i'm going to be purchasing stuff for a new frame. so the Shimano Connex works fine with the campy ultra-narrow chains?
i was thinking of either trying that, or just buying the least expensive Connex nickel chain and run it with the Campy group. anyone had any problems with Connex chains on Campy drivetrains
i was thinking of either trying that, or just buying the least expensive Connex nickel chain and run it with the Campy group. anyone had any problems with Connex chains on Campy drivetrains
worn out chain...
A chain should be changed at .5% elongation or 1/16" per foot. If you wait until 1%, the cassette is likely to be worn out. Yours should probably have been changed at only 3000 miles. The questions is if the elongation was measured accurately.rubicon_nm said:
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C-40, do you have the Record ultra narrow chain?
I bought the record ultra narrow and a 10 sp Shimano Connex link (says 6.1 mm on package) from Excel sports. I'm a little worried to break the new chain though because the Connex link seems like it isn't a tight fit when I put it together on the open end of the chain. Any assurances from anyone who has tried this?
I bought the record ultra narrow and a 10 sp Shimano Connex link (says 6.1 mm on package) from Excel sports. I'm a little worried to break the new chain though because the Connex link seems like it isn't a tight fit when I put it together on the open end of the chain. Any assurances from anyone who has tried this?
normal fit...
The side clerance on the connex link will never be as tight as a normal link.
The shimano version of the connex link is about .007 inch narrower than the campy link, but the new campy chain is .010 narrower, so the fit isn't quite as tight, but it's a lot better than using the wider campy version of the link.
I wouldn't worry about it, but you can always just join the chain with the HD-L pin. Others have reported using the older, wider link and of course it works. If you're looking for assurances, you may have to wait for a year until users have logged thousands of miles on the setup. A couple of rides doesn't tell much.
The side clerance on the connex link will never be as tight as a normal link.
The shimano version of the connex link is about .007 inch narrower than the campy link, but the new campy chain is .010 narrower, so the fit isn't quite as tight, but it's a lot better than using the wider campy version of the link.
I wouldn't worry about it, but you can always just join the chain with the HD-L pin. Others have reported using the older, wider link and of course it works. If you're looking for assurances, you may have to wait for a year until users have logged thousands of miles on the setup. A couple of rides doesn't tell much.
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I just built up a new bike with Campy Centaur and the new narrow chain. I just used the Campy link. I am really impressed with the chain thus far. It is super quiet and seems very forgiving of deraileur adjustmet issues. I'll have to see how it wears thoughrubicon_nm said:
SuperLink 5.9 mm
FWIW, I was on the phone on Friday with one of the guys at www.lickbike.com. I'm building a bike using a Record 6.2 mm chain, and I was calling to order the Wipperman Connex link. They actually recommended the SuperLink, which I ended up ordering instead. Here's the link to
http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.aspx?PART_NUM_SUB='0338-08'
During the course of the conversation, they mentioned that SuperLink is about to release the link for the new UL 5.9 mm chain ("we hear it's in production now").
I have no idea whether the SuperLink is better/worse than the Connex, but it does sound like they're about to come out with the UN-specific link very soon.
FWIW, I was on the phone on Friday with one of the guys at www.lickbike.com. I'm building a bike using a Record 6.2 mm chain, and I was calling to order the Wipperman Connex link. They actually recommended the SuperLink, which I ended up ordering instead. Here's the link to
http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.aspx?PART_NUM_SUB='0338-08'
During the course of the conversation, they mentioned that SuperLink is about to release the link for the new UL 5.9 mm chain ("we hear it's in production now").
I have no idea whether the SuperLink is better/worse than the Connex, but it does sound like they're about to come out with the UN-specific link very soon.
I've run superlinks from Lick Bike for 6k miles now (e.g. a couple of chains) without any problems.Hillen said:
That's good to hear on the ultra narrow. I've got a bike with a Narrow Chorus chain that I'm not breaking until I get something I know will work.....
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Okay, I put the ultra narrow chain on my bike with the Shimano compatible Connex link. The fit is good and the chain is smooth and quiet. We'll see over time if it gets louder. I have about 400 k on it. It works great with my American Classic conversion cassette. So good, I'm probably going to race with it this weekend.
However, THERE IS ONE PROBLEM. When I ride my training wheelset I'm getting some chain skip on one of the cassette rings. Surprisingly, this is a Record 12-25 cassette with relatively low miles and little noticeable wear on the teeth. My previous chains had been replaced at 3,000 with no stretch. The ring that it is skipping on is the 19 (4th from the inside). When I put it up on the stand, I can't get it to skip and there appears to be no anomallies in the chain tracking. Derailleur is adjusted fine. It only skips when I am pedaling on the road. I know it is not happening when the Connex link passes, because I've checked where the chain is when it skips and the Connex link is nowhere near the rear cluster. The only thing I can think is that the peculiar spacer (square shaped with the corners coming very close to the teeth) on that ring is causing the skip. However, there appears to be no problems with this when it is on the stand. Any suggestions out there?
However, THERE IS ONE PROBLEM. When I ride my training wheelset I'm getting some chain skip on one of the cassette rings. Surprisingly, this is a Record 12-25 cassette with relatively low miles and little noticeable wear on the teeth. My previous chains had been replaced at 3,000 with no stretch. The ring that it is skipping on is the 19 (4th from the inside). When I put it up on the stand, I can't get it to skip and there appears to be no anomallies in the chain tracking. Derailleur is adjusted fine. It only skips when I am pedaling on the road. I know it is not happening when the Connex link passes, because I've checked where the chain is when it skips and the Connex link is nowhere near the rear cluster. The only thing I can think is that the peculiar spacer (square shaped with the corners coming very close to the teeth) on that ring is causing the skip. However, there appears to be no problems with this when it is on the stand. Any suggestions out there?
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summerville....I know you say it happens when the link is not near but try this anyway.
Reverse the quick link.
I had the exact same thing with a a bike & that was all it took. You would not think it is directional & it is not on all cassettes but sometimes.
I know others who had the same problem. Skipping in the smaller cogs & this fixed it. Easy to try
Reverse the quick link.
I had the exact same thing with a a bike & that was all it took. You would not think it is directional & it is not on all cassettes but sometimes.
I know others who had the same problem. Skipping in the smaller cogs & this fixed it. Easy to try
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I will try. I had a similar problem on my TT bike with skipping on the 11. I reversed the link and the problem was solved. I don't think it is the case here, because it is skipping on the 19. I've check a number of times when it skips by stopping my pedaling right away and moving back to the crank arm angle of the skip, and the link wasn't even close. Also, I think I put the link on in the same direction as I did on my other bike, to make sure it woudn't skip for that reason. Thanks for the advise. I'll give it a try.
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There will be differences in hub brands, especially so when going from an AC conversion cassette to a Record hub and cassette. It takes a tweak when switching from my PT hub to any of my record hubs, and I use all campagnolo cassettes.
ditto on the orientation of the connex link. It is uni-directional. How I always remember is to 'frown when you're down'. Meaning, the keyway is shaped '^' when on the bottom of the chain.
And it smiles when its high
ditto on the orientation of the connex link. It is uni-directional. How I always remember is to 'frown when you're down'. Meaning, the keyway is shaped '^' when on the bottom of the chain.
And it smiles when its high
two things...
The 19 and 21 are pinned together on a carrier, so the only possible spacer problem would be between the 17 and 19. I'd take it apart and check for proper seating of this spacer.
As for reversing the connex link, there is only one right way and this should not require any guess work. On the lower section of chain, the slotted end should be on your left and the pin on your right, as you look at the chain from the right side of the bike.
Despite the low mileage, there is always the chance of a worn cog, if you happen to use that cog a lot. If the problem is a true chain skip, where the chain rides up over the top of the teeth and fails to drive the wheel, then a worn cog is most likely the problem. Changing the cassette is about the only way to be sure. If the "skip" is the case of the chain wanting to move up or down a cog, that's not chain skip, but some other adjustment or perhaps a bent tooth problem.
The 19 and 21 are pinned together on a carrier, so the only possible spacer problem would be between the 17 and 19. I'd take it apart and check for proper seating of this spacer.
As for reversing the connex link, there is only one right way and this should not require any guess work. On the lower section of chain, the slotted end should be on your left and the pin on your right, as you look at the chain from the right side of the bike.
Despite the low mileage, there is always the chance of a worn cog, if you happen to use that cog a lot. If the problem is a true chain skip, where the chain rides up over the top of the teeth and fails to drive the wheel, then a worn cog is most likely the problem. Changing the cassette is about the only way to be sure. If the "skip" is the case of the chain wanting to move up or down a cog, that's not chain skip, but some other adjustment or perhaps a bent tooth problem.
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Man you guys might have just made my day!
JR
I've been about to yank out my hair because of a skipping/knocking I'm getting just on the 3rd cog up from the bottom (14T?). Never thought about switching the connex. I've got the RD adjusted, the milage on the cassette is under 500 miles and the chain is new. Hope this solves the problem. I was thinking it was a freehub or spacer problem.flying said:summerville....I know you say it happens when the link is not near but try this anyway.
Reverse the quick link.
I had the exact same thing with a a bike & that was all it took. You would not think it is directional & it is not on all cassettes but sometimes.
I know others who had the same problem. Skipping in the smaller cogs & this fixed it. Easy to try
JR
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25 Posts
Thanks guys. I've done some closer examining and testing of the skip issue.
-Ruled out the connex link. It is always away from the rear cluster during the skip.
-It is definitely a true skip when driving down hard on the crank. Very annoying.
-Definitely not an adjustment issue. All shifting is fine and the chain is tracking straight down to the pulleys. It skips on both the small and big front chainrings.
-I closely examined the teeth, etc. and they look good. There appears to be no anomallies. However, I've had some chain skip issues on an older MTB and the teeth looked perfect then too.
My conclusion so far: warn cog. I might be misleading everyone about low miles. This cassette has 10,000 k. I thought this would be low miles but maybe I'm underestimating cassette life. I have switched chains twice on it. I still have the old chains and both worked fine when removed, and had less than .75% stretch. Neither skipped and I'm still using one of these on another bike. The first chain was Campy C-10 Ultra and the second was Wipperman 10x1 hallow pin.
I'm postulating the 19 has worn the most because it is a popular gear for me and it is the first Titanium ring I hit while in the big chainring. Titanium wears faster right? Can anyone confirm cassette life and/or provide feedback about my theory? I keep my junk excessively clean and as you see, change the chain regularly. The old chain still works fine without skipping. Maybe the new Ultra Narrow chain is just extra sensitive.
-Ruled out the connex link. It is always away from the rear cluster during the skip.
-It is definitely a true skip when driving down hard on the crank. Very annoying.
-Definitely not an adjustment issue. All shifting is fine and the chain is tracking straight down to the pulleys. It skips on both the small and big front chainrings.
-I closely examined the teeth, etc. and they look good. There appears to be no anomallies. However, I've had some chain skip issues on an older MTB and the teeth looked perfect then too.
My conclusion so far: warn cog. I might be misleading everyone about low miles. This cassette has 10,000 k. I thought this would be low miles but maybe I'm underestimating cassette life. I have switched chains twice on it. I still have the old chains and both worked fine when removed, and had less than .75% stretch. Neither skipped and I'm still using one of these on another bike. The first chain was Campy C-10 Ultra and the second was Wipperman 10x1 hallow pin.
I'm postulating the 19 has worn the most because it is a popular gear for me and it is the first Titanium ring I hit while in the big chainring. Titanium wears faster right? Can anyone confirm cassette life and/or provide feedback about my theory? I keep my junk excessively clean and as you see, change the chain regularly. The old chain still works fine without skipping. Maybe the new Ultra Narrow chain is just extra sensitive.
just a worn cog..
Now that we know the facts, it's pretty obvious that's it's a worn cog. Ti cogs will wear faster than steel. IMO, they aren't worth the money. The fact that your old chains work OK is the giveaway. A new chain will always reveal a worn cog, by skipping on it. Campy recommends changing the chain at just a bit less the .5% elongation. Measuring the elongation accurately can be done with a precision scale. With the end of the scale on the edge of a pin, the pin at the opposite end should not show even 1/2 of it's diameter before changing. 1/2 a pin is .070 inch and .5% is .063.
Now that we know the facts, it's pretty obvious that's it's a worn cog. Ti cogs will wear faster than steel. IMO, they aren't worth the money. The fact that your old chains work OK is the giveaway. A new chain will always reveal a worn cog, by skipping on it. Campy recommends changing the chain at just a bit less the .5% elongation. Measuring the elongation accurately can be done with a precision scale. With the end of the scale on the edge of a pin, the pin at the opposite end should not show even 1/2 of it's diameter before changing. 1/2 a pin is .070 inch and .5% is .063.
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