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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, first post here -- I wrote a long intro earlier but accidentally hit back on my mouse and couldn’t find the saved post so I’ll make this quick – I’m new to this site, new to road bikes, but not new to biking and working on bikes, I’m very handy. Nice to meet you guys!

I just got a 2007 Cannondale Ironman Slice Aero 3 – 47cm frame. I got the bike because it is one of the few road bikes that I could find ‘used’ that actually even fits me. I barely clear the top tube when standing flat foot. This bike is 9 years old but looks like it was kept inside, no rust, chain was perfect and everything mostly original and it was priced well below any other similar bikes.

I know it sounds crazy to want to convert a triathlon bike to a road bike, as the geometry is off etc. But from further research I found that this bike has geometry more like a road bike than a triathlon bike, and that you can even reverse the seat post to make it more like one or the other.

So here’s what I need help with.. I want to remove the Aero Bars and Bull Horn handle bar and replace it with a drop down with some kind of brifters/control levers just so it’s more practical. The bike is a 10x2 speed and it has Ultegra derailleurs – I *think* they are 6600 series because the bike is a 2007??

I went ahead and ordered the ST-6700 controls and a new drop down handle bar (in $275 so far). Now my question is: is this the proper route to go or should I have gotten 6600 series controls for maximum compatibility?? What is the difference? I don’t need it to be perfect but I don’t want to do something that’s frowned upon or that I wouldn’t see much of a difference and wasting my time/money trying to achieve.

Can you adjust this setup to work good and ride nicely or will I spend my entire life with annoyances forever trying to adjust it to work? I’m not sure if I should return the ST-6700 controls and go with older 6600 controls (that might not be as nice or up to date and cost about the same, but would match up with the groupset). Do you guys foresee any problems I might encounter?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks!!
 

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Nice.... You now have a heavier aero bike.

6700 will work with 6600 stuff without issues. I currently have 6700 SHIFTERS work with 7900 derailleurs.
 

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If you really want race type shifting action, go SRAM or Campy.

I have all 3 drive train and for me, SRAM is best. Close second is Campy.
 

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duriel;5047955 Real riders don't ride SRAM.[/QUOTE said:
Said no one ever. Let me guess you're 50+ years old and like comfort for your weekends. Do you also ride a Ti bike with Disk brakes? Lol
 

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Seeing as that you already have Shimano derailleurs, I think you went the correct route. If you wanted to downgrade to SRAM you'd have to replace everything. You'd be paying a lot of for lesser gear.
 

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Hey all, first post here -- I wrote a long intro earlier but accidentally hit back on my mouse and couldn’t find the saved post so I’ll make this quick – I’m new to this site, new to road bikes, but not new to biking and working on bikes, I’m very handy. Nice to meet you guys!

I just got a 2007 Cannondale Ironman Slice Aero 3 – 47cm frame. I got the bike because it is one of the few road bikes that I could find ‘used’ that actually even fits me. I barely clear the top tube when standing flat foot. This bike is 9 years old but looks like it was kept inside, no rust, chain was perfect and everything mostly original and it was priced well below any other similar bikes.

I know it sounds crazy to want to convert a triathlon bike to a road bike, as the geometry is off etc. But from further research I found that this bike has geometry more like a road bike than a triathlon bike, and that you can even reverse the seat post to make it more like one or the other.

So here’s what I need help with.. I want to remove the Aero Bars and Bull Horn handle bar and replace it with a drop down with some kind of shifters/control levers just so it’s more practical. The bike is a 10x2 speed and it has Ultegra derailleurs – I *think* they are 6600 series because the bike is a 2007??

I went ahead and ordered the ST-6700 controls and a new drop down handle bar (in $275 so far). Now my question is: is this the proper route to go or should I have gotten 6600 series controls for maximum compatibility?? What is the difference? I don’t need it to be perfect but I don’t want to do something that’s frowned upon or that I wouldn’t see much of a difference and wasting my time/money trying to achieve.

Can you adjust this setup to work good and ride nicely or will I spend my entire life with annoyances forever trying to adjust it to work? I’m not sure if I should return the ST-6700 controls and go with older 6600 controls (that might not be as nice or up to date and cost about the same, but would match up with the groupset). Do you guys foresee any problems I might encounter?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks!!
Fixed it for you! :)

And yes, I think you made a good decision with your choice of shifters. ST-6700s will work with 6600 components. The brakes may feel a little different, but will work fine.

Is this your bike:

2007 Cannondale Ironman Slice Aero 3 - BikePedia
 

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Thanks for the responses, i'll stick with the ST-6700 controls!



Hey Lombard, yep that's it! old school but very stiff aluminum. It's orange too.

View attachment 315108
You may want to tilt your seat back. It looks like you will be constantly sliding forward.

I like the orange!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You may want to tilt your seat back. It looks like you will be constantly sliding forward.

I like the orange!
Yeah i'm definitely sliding forward slowly, I think the seat should be more level and needs to come up 1.5 inches higher..

So question: i can stand and pedal hard on this bike, but then the bike comes "loose" or has a side to side swing like i'm pedaling hard on a bmx because i'm lifting off of the seat.. should i be still kind of sitting (or hovering the seat) even when i try to stand and pedal?
 

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Yeah i'm definitely sliding forward slowly, I think the seat should be more level and needs to come up 1.5 inches higher..

So question: i can stand and pedal hard on this bike, but then the bike comes "loose" or has a side to side swing like i'm pedaling hard on a bmx because i'm lifting off of the seat.. should i be still kind of sitting (or hovering the seat) even when i try to stand and pedal?
I like my saddle level to slightly nose up.

If you pedal out of the saddle, the bike will swing side to side relative to your body. This is normal.
 

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Yeah i'm definitely sliding forward slowly, I think the seat should be more level and needs to come up 1.5 inches higher..

So question: i can stand and pedal hard on this bike, but then the bike comes "loose" or has a side to side swing like i'm pedaling hard on a bmx because i'm lifting off of the seat.. should i be still kind of sitting (or hovering the seat) even when i try to stand and pedal?
It sounds like you need some help with fitting your bike. It is worth the $150 to get a professional fit done. In the mean time, you can get your saddle height roughly in the right place by sitting on the bike and placing the heal of your foot on the pedal. With the pedal down your leg should be fully extended. This will give you some bend in your knee when you slide your foot back to get the ball of your foot over the pedal for riding. You do NOT want your leg to fully extend when pedaling.

When you are standing and pedaling your butt will be higher than your saddle.
 

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It sounds like you need some help with fitting your bike. It is worth the $150 to get a professional fit done.
This.

In the mean time, you can get your saddle height roughly in the right place by sitting on the bike and placing the heal of your foot on the pedal. With the pedal down your leg should be fully extended......
....without shoes on.

This will give you some bend in your knee when you slide your foot back to get the ball of your foot over the pedal for riding. You do NOT want your leg to fully extend when pedaling.

When you are standing and pedaling your butt will be higher than your saddle.
A 20 degree bend in your knee is a good general starting point. But definitely get a good fit from a reputable bike shop. It is money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just wanted to give you guys a little update... I just finished the conversion, minus wrapping the handlebars

I ended up having to buy:
-a new stem because the new handlebar was 31.8, the old one was smaller
-new brake cables because the ball at the end was different
-new shifter cables since i was getting new brake cables

Bike actually lost 1.1 lbs, there is less equipment now (and those aero bars are heavy.)

Mechanically, the bike works, can shift thru the gears, but i think my settings are all off... i tried to set the high low limits for the rear derailer and front derailer but gave up since i only have 2 hands and i was trying to lift the bike, spin the cranks, and shift all at the same time over and over again. i'm just going to take it to a bike shop and ask for a tune, hopefully they can get it running good

Besides that, i'm loving the new setup!! so much less work to shift gears and i dont even have to move my hands much

Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim
 

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Just wanted to give you guys a little update... I just finished the conversion, minus wrapping the handlebars

I ended up having to buy:
-a new stem because the new handlebar was 31.8, the old one was smaller
-new brake cables because the ball at the end was different
-new shifter cables since i was getting new brake cables

Bike actually lost 1.1 lbs, there is less equipment now (and those aero bars are heavy.)

Mechanically, the bike works, can shift thru the gears, but i think my settings are all off... i tried to set the high low limits for the rear derailer and front derailer but gave up since i only have 2 hands and i was trying to lift the bike, spin the cranks, and shift all at the same time over and over again. i'm just going to take it to a bike shop and ask for a tune, hopefully they can get it running good

Besides that, i'm loving the new setup!! so much less work to shift gears and i dont even have to move my hands much

View attachment 315214 View attachment 315215
Looks nice!

I'm assuming you don't have a bike stand or rear car rack or this would be easy. Without one of those, the way to make these derailleur adjustments is to turn the bike upside down (make sure you are on something soft like grass or a carpet so you don't scratch up the hoods). Now you can turn the crank without having to lift the rear wheel.

I have found the best way to make these limit adjustments is to adjust them clockwise until you cannot shift into that first/last gear in each direction. Then make adjustments counter-clockwise in quarter turn increments until you are able to go into that first/last gear. You will still notice some noise due to the chain not being completely there. Keep turning in quarter turn increments until the noise goes away. That's it!
 
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