Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to install a 9-Speed Ultegra Casstte. Are the torque specs correct on the lockring hub? I have heard in previos postes that the torque specs for some cassettes for some wheels are too tight and have lead to hub damage. I am installing the cassete on to an alluminum clincher. Any advice?:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,666 Posts
I am about to install a 9-Speed Ultegra Casstte. Are the torque specs correct on the lockring hub? I have heard in previos postes that the torque specs for some cassettes for some wheels are too tight and have lead to hub damage. I am installing the cassete on to an alluminum clincher. Any advice?:confused:
Yeah, don't worry about the torque specs. Seriously. Obviously you want to go "tight enough" while at the same time not stripping the threads and common sense is all you really need for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,713 Posts
The cassette lockring is one of the less torque-critical components on a bike, unless you're a gorilla. "pretty tight" is about right. And if it loosens, you'll know it (nothing will break unless you ignore it for a long time), and you tighten it again, a little tighter.
 

·
Steaming piles of opinion
Joined
·
10,503 Posts
The cassette lockring is one of the less torque-critical components on a bike, unless you're a gorilla. "pretty tight" is about right. And if it loosens, you'll know it (nothing will break unless you ignore it for a long time), and you tighten it again, a little tighter.
I'd agree with one provision: If the splines on the freehub are alloy, you actually want to tend toward 'tighter' rather than 'looser.' Having the it torqued down well helps limit the cogs' chewing into the hub splines.

That does have to be balanced against alloy threads and the torque they can take, since Shimano intends them to be steel. But the diameter helps a lot there - and take a look at the Park link above, recalling that a SRAM lockring is alloy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you all for your advice.

I actually ended up getting a SRAM 971 12-23 cassette and replaced it this weekend. I also replaced my old 9-speed chain with a 9-speed SRAM chain. I used the Park Blue Book to do the maintenance. The cassette was installed without issues, installed tight, but not too tight (did not use a torque wrench). As for the chain, I followed the directions to size the chain and accidently made the chain on link too short (jammed when shiffed to biggest cog (23t) in biggest chainring (53t)). I installed an extra link and all shifts well in the big cog/big ring configuration, HOWEVER, the chin seems to jam against the rear frame drop-out when in the 12t rear cog and 39t front chain rinig configuraton. An experieiced cycling friend told me that my rear deraileur H-limit screw needs to be tewaked inwards to fix the problem; I agree and also think I need to lube the chain (my LBS mechanic told me not to lube the chain for the first few rides since the factory puts enough greease on the chain to lubricate it and the cassestte).

Any feedback? Any an all would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,674 Posts
Does the chain run properly in the 53x12? If so there should be no issue in the 39, other than the chain possibly catching the inside of the outer chainring or erhaps the next sprocket. In either case it is not an issue as the combination is not one the drivetrain is designed to be used in.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top