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I've built up a used calfee pista carbon frame. I've got an old durace crank but a brand new bottom bracket.

Yesterday was my 3rd ride on it and I started to hear a creak coming from the cranks at a specific part of the pedal revolution (left foot straight ahead). It doesn't need a lot of force to occur and does so on every revolution.

What should I check first? I'm worried there could be a crack in the frame. If there is, it isn't visible.

Thanks
 

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Look over the frame for any cracks first. Then check the usual suspects...

BB cups
Crank arm bolt
Pedal

Remove, regrease threads, re-install.

On one ocassion, I had a creak that I thought was in the BB/crank area...turned out to be from my saddle rails.

Good luck...unidentified creaks are annoying.
 

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I once chased down an annoying clicking sound through the BB, pedal spindles, chain, etc., etc., and finally found it was the buckle on one of the damn toe straps. You're getting good advice here about the order in which to to investigate, but be aware that you may be experiencing a creak from the BB flexing. How old/how many miles on the frame?
 

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I chased and chased a creak last year. What a fiasco. Here's the order I'd work in. On a square-taper BB, you pay a "price" every time you take the crank off, so do easy/simple things first.

-- Saddle. Confirm creak survives when you're standing, duh.

-- Stem and bars. Confirm creak survives when your hands are together at the stem.

-- Pedals. Test tightness into the crank. Did you get movement? If yes, good! This is the easiest and cheapest thing that could have occurred. Remove, clean, grease, reinstall.

-- Chainring bolts. Do any of the bolt-nut combinations turn (slip) at all, using a normal-size hex wrench with normal hand strength? If yes, good! Again, an easy fix.

-- Crank arm bolts. Put a torque wrench on them at a typical spec (often 30 ft.lbs). A torque wrench is not an exotic tool, and a simple one is cheap! Did you get movement? If yes, tighten to spec and start praying. Don't over-torque! I learned from others that the steel in BB axles is super-hard and the tapered end itself is rarely deformed. But once you start "chasing" a loosening crank bolt on a square-taper BB by overtightening the crank bolts multiple times, you probably have mashed the hole on the crank arm(s). Also, you will become extremely frustrated when you must tighten it again and again. It can take some of the joy out of having a simple bike.

-- BB cups. If there was no movement when torquing the crank arm bolts (and if the creak survives, duh), ironically that means it's time to pop the crank arm(s) off and go after the BB cups. Again, use a torque wrench. On the adjustable side, is there movement at a typical spec? Good! You've probably found it. Here, you get different advice about greasing, depending on frame material, who you talk to, etc.

Best of luck.
 
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