Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
I have it on one bike. The purpose is to keep the cables from rubbing on the head tube. YMMV, but since it takes a bit more cable and housing than the traditional routing, you can simply change it back if it doesn't work out for you. Nothing is lost since you can use the same cables.
 

· duh...
Joined
·
9,749 Posts
yes... depends on the dt stops- back like old dt shifter braze ons or on the head tube? not needed if the latter. IME, it takes more cable, not much more housing
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10,161 Posts
info...

As already mentioned, it's done to keep the cables from rubbing the head tube, but depending on the location of the cable stops, the cable may rub and rattle on the down tube, particularly in the area where they cross. It can also create more cable friction. I used this routing for several years, but always needed a small "bumper" attached with adhesive to hold the cable off the DT. After figuring out that the shifters worked easier with the standard routing, I gave it up. I'd rather place clear vinyl tape on the HT to protect it. One of my frames has permanent head tube cable guides, so no protection is needed.
 

· duh...
Joined
·
9,749 Posts
and someone (jagwire?) actually makes little rubber 'bumper' housing covers to protect the ht paint. the original was a roll/slide on application, and I think newer ones are split so you can attach without removing cables/housings
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am thinking of trying this because I am using rapid fire shifters on a nitto north road bar http://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/HB1008 on the inside of the first curve (moustache bar style). This puts the levers pretty close to the stem. In order to route the cables standard (right to right, left to left) the cables have to make a pretty clunky reverse bend before curving back under the handlebars. Criss crossing them seems much more gradual and less friction inducing. My stops are old-school style on the down tube. seems worth a try.
 

· n00bsauce
Joined
·
13,627 Posts
I use it most of the time. Mainly because the cable routing looks better, IMHO, especially with Campy.
 

· Roadie with unshaven legs
Joined
·
2,041 Posts
I run the cables criss-crossed under my downtube. Before I ran them I eyeballed the path and I knew I had a few mm of clearance so I did it. I also put a small 1X1 inch patch of leather on the downtube right where the cables cross that was sticky-backed (came with some leather chainstay protector I bought for the same bike). The only issue I had with this was trying to adjust the rear derailleur on one ride and realizing after fiddling with the downtube cable adjusters that I couldn't shift my front derailleur because I was fiddling with the wrong adjuster all that time.
 

· n00bsauce
Joined
·
13,627 Posts
How does it make it harder to clean the downtube? Some bikes rattle, some don't. Pretty much depends on how much clearance there is between the cables and the tube
 

· n00bsauce
Joined
·
13,627 Posts
Operator error does not an issue make.:D
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,746 Posts
FatTireFred said:
and someone (jagwire?) actually makes little rubber 'bumper' housing covers to protect the ht paint. the original was a roll/slide on application, and I think newer ones are split so you can attach without removing cables/housings
it is Jagwire (edited... apparently they are called tube tops https://www.jagwireusa.com/en/tubetops.html) ... they are solid and require a "slide" installation, but they slipped on the cables with a little WD-40 help and have stayed put. So far, they have been quiet and haven't caused any noticeable rub on the head tube. (they are the little red sleeves pictured touching the head tube)

Also, I got a used bike that had the criss cross cables and unbeknownst to me they actually caused rub marks under the down tube. I install everything the normal way and haven't had any issues.

 

· your god hates me
Joined
·
1,604 Posts
Mel Erickson said:
How does it make it harder to clean the downtube? Some bikes rattle, some don't. Pretty much depends on how much clearance there is between the cables and the tube
You just answered your own question: criss-crossed cables by definition have less clearance than straight runs, since the curvature of the downtube's circumference brings it closer to the cables where they cross at the apex of that curve. Less clearance = harder to get rags under cables to clean.
 

· n00bsauce
Joined
·
13,627 Posts
Uh, there's plenty o' stretch in those cables regardless of the run. You can easily get your hand and a rag between the cables and the tube for a good wipe down. I've never seen it as a problem and most of my bikes have the cables crossed.
 

· your god hates me
Joined
·
1,604 Posts
Mel Erickson said:
Uh, there's plenty o' stretch in those cables regardless of the run. You can easily get your hand and a rag between the cables and the tube for a good wipe down. I've never seen it as a problem and most of my bikes have the cables crossed.

Sorry, I disagree on your use of the word "easily". Sure, you can get your hand and a rag in there, but I contend that it is infinitely easier to do so on a bike with straight-routed cables.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Bob Ross said:
Sorry, I disagree on your use of the word "easily". Sure, you can get your hand and a rag in there, but I contend that it is infinitely easier to do so on a bike with straight-routed cables.
I see no practical difference in ease of cleaning. Maybe you're not loosening the cables. Simply shift to the big gears - front and rear. Then, without pedaling, downshift the front and upshift the rear all the way. Voila - your cables will be loose making cleaning a breeze. :thumbsup:
 

· your god hates me
Joined
·
1,604 Posts
rogerstg said:
I see no practical difference in ease of cleaning. Maybe you're not loosening the cables. Simply shift to the big gears - front and rear. Then, without pedaling, downshift the front and upshift the rear all the way. Voila - your cables will be loose making cleaning a breeze.
On my bike w/ straight-routed cables the cables are standing a good 5-6mm off of the downtube, running parallel to its length at the 10:00 & 2:00 position. On my bike w/ criss-crossed cable routing the cables are touching the downtube at the 12:00 position, and are only incrementally farther away for the length of the downtube until you get to the cable stops or the routing gizmos under the bottom bracket. This seems to be purely a function of geometry (and/or cable stop height), not cable tension.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top