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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #1
I have an old centurion bike that I'm planning on making into a cheap SS commuter. Here are my plans. I've done a little reading and think I'm on the right track but we'll see.

I have an old low end 9 speed wheelset that I'm planning on using with the frame. I'll use a 16 or 17 cog with spacers and spread the frame a bit to get it to work. Remove the big ring on the current crankset and use the 42 in the front. I'll line them up using the old cassette spacers from a couple of old cassettes.

I'd like to just use the current 7 speed chain so I can use the old chainring in the front. Will that work with a 9 spd cog pulled from an old cassette? I'll pull all of the derailleurs and associated stuff and shorten the chain for the 16. I am considering starting with a 17 since it is very hilly around here, as I get used to it I can remove links for the 16.

I'm also considering swapping the road fork for a fork from a trek tourer so that I'll have clearance for fenders. But I expect I'll have to find some long reach brakes.

Like I said, I have no idea if any of this is feasable but I'd like to try. Ok, where did I screw up?
 

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Brake levers?

VaughnA said:
I have an old centurion bike that I'm planning on making into a cheap SS commuter. Here are my plans. I've done a little reading and think I'm on the right track but we'll see.

I have an old low end 9 speed wheelset that I'm planning on using with the frame. I'll use a 16 or 17 cog with spacers and spread the frame a bit to get it to work. Remove the big ring on the current crankset and use the 42 in the front. I'll line them up using the old cassette spacers from a couple of old cassettes.

I'd like to just use the current 7 speed chain so I can use the old chainring in the front. Will that work with a 9 spd cog pulled from an old cassette? I'll pull all of the derailleurs and associated stuff and shorten the chain for the 16. I am considering starting with a 17 since it is very hilly around here, as I get used to it I can remove links for the 16.

I'm also considering swapping the road fork for a fork from a trek tourer so that I'll have clearance for fenders. But I expect I'll have to find some long reach brakes.

Like I said, I have no idea if any of this is feasable but I'd like to try. Ok, where did I screw up?
So how are you planning to lock the rear hub into the frame? Is the old hub you are planning to use have track nuts or QR? My understanding is/was that you needed to have threaded axle to keep the rear wheel in place, a QR won't hold. I spent $150 getting a set of wheels made using a Suzie John Kerry special hub and used BMX nuts to hold it in place.
 

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Home Brew User!
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Sounds perfect for next years Blue Ridge Extreme!

I assume the crank is a double?

Do you plan to take the next leap on go fixed?
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Lone Gunman said:
So how are you planning to lock the rear hub into the frame? Is the old hub you are planning to use have track nuts or QR? My understanding is/was that you needed to have threaded axle to keep the rear wheel in place, a QR won't hold. I spent $150 getting a set of wheels made using a Suzie John Kerry special hub and used BMX nuts to hold it in place.
Bike was dt shifters so I'll use the lever's I have now.

The old wheels are qr and I was hoping to use them as is. If a qr won't hold then I guess I'll have to use a chain tensioner and take it all of the way back in the dropout. Does that make sense? I'd like a true flipflop but can't afford it right now.
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #5
Lifelover said:
Sounds perfect for next years Blue Ridge Extreme!

I assume the crank is a double?

Do you plan to take the next leap on go fixed?
Yep a double, I'd like to go fixed when I get a few extra bucks for wheels. At that point I may try to build my own.

Blue ridge extreme sure, yeah right, I'll use it there! SS with a 34/27 is the only way I'll do it!
 

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Think about it....

VaughnA said:
Bike was dt shifters so I'll use the lever's I have now.

The old wheels are qr and I was hoping to use them as is. If a qr won't hold then I guess I'll have to use a chain tensioner and take it all of the way back in the dropout. Does that make sense? I'd like a true flipflop but can't afford it right now.
If a QR holds a regular wheel in place just fine, what difference is there with a SS wheel?

Your QR will be fine.
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #7
MB1 said:
If a QR holds a regular wheel in place just fine, what difference is there with a SS wheel?

Your QR will be fine.
that was my logic but since the wheel may not be all of the way back in the dropout I figured it might move. I'll just try and see. I'll use an internal cam qr for a little more bite..
 

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What about the chain length

What kind of drop outs do you have on the bike??

If you don't have Horizontal then you may have some problems getting the chain length right which will require half links or maybe a tensioner. I just built a SS out of my old GT that runs 53x16 and I had to run half links to get the tension just right. So be sure to keep this in mind because it is not easy enough to say that you will just remove a couple links to run a different cog.
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #9
Aron said:
What kind of drop outs do you have on the bike??

If you don't have Horizontal then you may have some problems getting the chain length right which will require half links or maybe a tensioner. I just built a SS out of my old GT that runs 53x16 and I had to run half links to get the tension just right. So be sure to keep this in mind because it is not easy enough to say that you will just remove a couple links to run a different cog.
It has short semi-horizontal (I guess that's what you would call them) dropouts, I have about 1 inch of adjustment.
 

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Non non normal
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Vaughan,

I have a proposal. I just built up a new fixed gear rear wheel and have an old fixed gear wheel that is setup exactly like you are talking about except I had the freewheel mechanism welded so it is a fixed. The rim is nearing the end of it's life for a big man riding it but the ultegra hub could be built up again if needed. A lighter rider should still get several thousand out of the wheel. PM me if you are interested as I will let it go cheap to a fellow RBRer.

Also, your concept will work fine. You will most likely need the ninth cog so you can lock down the whole setup. It won't tighten the spacers up without it. I ground down the teeth on the 11 tooth cog for a smoother look.

QRs work fine. I have used one on my fixed and put several thousand miles on it with no problem. I weigh around 240 (mostly more than 240) and never had a problem.
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the offer but I want to see if I like it as much as I hope to. If I'm going to have to relace a wheel I'll problably get an inexpensive flip flop hub and go that route. I'm about 190 so I'm encouraged by the comments about the QR. I'll be giving it a try in the next few days. My goal is to keep it under 100 bucks, I paid 30 for the bike & 50 for the wheels so I've got 20 bucks for beer to get it put together.
 

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VaughnA said:
Thanks for the offer but I want to see if I like it as much as I hope to. If I'm going to have to relace a wheel I'll problably get an inexpensive flip flop hub and go that route. I'm about 190 so I'm encouraged by the comments about the QR. I'll be giving it a try in the next few days. My goal is to keep it under 100 bucks, I paid 30 for the bike & 50 for the wheels so I've got 20 bucks for beer to get it put together.

If you have vertical dropouts you can use an old rear derr. as a chain tensioner. Good luck. You are only one step away from getting hooked. My other recommendation is if you are going to buy a flip flop hub don't buy the real cheap ones as I have heard they don't hold up. I bought a mid range hub per MB1 and other's recommendations.
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #13
bigrider said:
If you have vertical dropouts you can use an old rear derr. as a chain tensioner. Good luck. You are only one step away from getting hooked. My other recommendation is if you are going to buy a flip flop hub don't buy the real cheap ones as I have heard they don't hold up. I bought a mid range hub per MB1 and other's recommendations.
Thanks for the tip on the cheap hubs, I'll take nashbar off the list. I looked at the dropouts again, they're maybe 20 degrees off of horizontal, I think they'll work fine. If not I was planning on using the R.D. until I got a tensioner. But I don't think I'll need one. Thanks again for the tips.
 

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Spicy Dumpling
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Discussion Starter #14
Got Her Done

Completed the thing tonight and rode it around the block a couple of times. Looks good so far, the wheel didn't move in the dropout when I stomped on it so I think that it is fine. Looks like the chainline is right on.

I'm surprised at the quietness, no sound of the chain through the derailleur. I had to go get a few washers to get the chainring tight, otherwise it all went together well. If the weather holds out I'll ride it to work tomorrow and see how it does.

I ended up buying a new chain and tires so it ended up costing me about $120.00 total. I now have a centurion single speed. I'm going to try it this way for a while and if I like it I'll go fixie. If I do that I'll need wheels and probably a shorter crank. The 175 and the low BB would probably be a little dangerous. I have a 165 triple laying around, I guess I could use that.

Thanks for all of the tips. I'm not riding a fixie yet.. Baby steps first..
 
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