Looking to build a weightweenish build (starting with a 1200 g frame and fork fort a large....which I think is weightweenish). I have a Deda Newton shallow bar + a Deda Newton stem (CNC machined) with Ti bolts. Not the latest technology but are they pretty good weight wise? Or should I look for better?
Deda Newton Stem & Bar: WW or not?
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Those aren't very heavy and it might cost a lot more for something lighter.
Carbon bars cost around $200 and would save you a couple of ounces. There are lighter alloy bars but I can't name any particular brand.
You hear of superlight stems breaking sometimes so I wouldn't try to save an ounce there.
When you save an ounce to two here or there it adds up but getting a light crankset and wheels can often make the biggest difference.
First, go to weightweenies.starbike.com and look at their listings. You can view old listings from the top menu of the first page without signing in. To sign in for the more recent weight contributions, you have to join and sign in and then find the listings spreadsheet link within the forums. But it's well worth it as you get hundreds, thousands of accurate, actual weights of all types of components.
That said, You can get alloy bars that are sub 220gm, but they are pretty rare. The Deda bars I think are considered pretty light, especially for the cost. Like Randy99CL said, you can get below 200 grams with carbon fiber, but I doubt if you'll find even used or closeout CF bars for less than $100, probably more like $200. Thats about as light as you'll get for any sense of reasonable cost.
A light stem, period, is a 100-110 gram alloy stem, and I doubt you'll get any lighter than probably 130 or so for the lightest you could find in your 120mm length. Just a guess but, again, I think Deda Newton is considered not bad weight-wise. OTOH, my 26.0, 105mm Syntace stem is only 105, but it's smaller and shorter than what you need. I think it's pretty unusual for CF stems to be lighter than the lightest alloy stems and they are $$$.
Your stuff isn't really heavy, but you might be able to save an ounce each if you do some educated EBaying using the weightweenies listings to guide you. It's fun as long as you don't get obsessed and waste money. Do the same for your seatpost and saddle if you want to play the game. (I enjoy it).
BUT.... Wheels, tires and tubes are the best way to lose significant weight. If you get wheels that are ~1400 grams (stripped bare of skewers and rim tape, just for reference) that would be a pretty much low weight alloy wheel. Yea, you can get lighter (Soul, Williams are two), but that's unusual for alloy. 1500 - 1600gm wheels which I currently ride, are not very expensive if you shop around, and are very nice an light in my opinion and probably not as fragile. A lot of basic, stock wheels are in the 1800 to 2000+ range so check what you have.
But tires and tubes - you can lose a lot of weight - 1/2 pound maybe - for cheap by going with high quality tires (like Michelin Pro Race) on sale and lightweight tubes.
That said, You can get alloy bars that are sub 220gm, but they are pretty rare. The Deda bars I think are considered pretty light, especially for the cost. Like Randy99CL said, you can get below 200 grams with carbon fiber, but I doubt if you'll find even used or closeout CF bars for less than $100, probably more like $200. Thats about as light as you'll get for any sense of reasonable cost.
A light stem, period, is a 100-110 gram alloy stem, and I doubt you'll get any lighter than probably 130 or so for the lightest you could find in your 120mm length. Just a guess but, again, I think Deda Newton is considered not bad weight-wise. OTOH, my 26.0, 105mm Syntace stem is only 105, but it's smaller and shorter than what you need. I think it's pretty unusual for CF stems to be lighter than the lightest alloy stems and they are $$$.
Your stuff isn't really heavy, but you might be able to save an ounce each if you do some educated EBaying using the weightweenies listings to guide you. It's fun as long as you don't get obsessed and waste money. Do the same for your seatpost and saddle if you want to play the game. (I enjoy it).
BUT.... Wheels, tires and tubes are the best way to lose significant weight. If you get wheels that are ~1400 grams (stripped bare of skewers and rim tape, just for reference) that would be a pretty much low weight alloy wheel. Yea, you can get lighter (Soul, Williams are two), but that's unusual for alloy. 1500 - 1600gm wheels which I currently ride, are not very expensive if you shop around, and are very nice an light in my opinion and probably not as fragile. A lot of basic, stock wheels are in the 1800 to 2000+ range so check what you have.
But tires and tubes - you can lose a lot of weight - 1/2 pound maybe - for cheap by going with high quality tires (like Michelin Pro Race) on sale and lightweight tubes.
Thanks for replies and information.
I see that these are fairly light...in fact, I've discovered that there are carbon stems and handlebars that are heavier...I had it in my brain that they would all be lighter (noting that there are certain models of each in carbon that are lighter). These ultralight carbon ones are very expensive but I'll keep my eyes open for sales and ebay, etc.
I see that these are fairly light...in fact, I've discovered that there are carbon stems and handlebars that are heavier...I had it in my brain that they would all be lighter (noting that there are certain models of each in carbon that are lighter). These ultralight carbon ones are very expensive but I'll keep my eyes open for sales and ebay, etc.
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sounds like youre sacrificing everything for the sake of something people can lift with their pinky. Dont do it. I always found you can lift a heavy bike with a pinky anyway.
Bars especially should be chosen based on how they fit. I'm really adamant about having a decent sized amount of bar you can grip in the drops that are almost parallel to the ground. When you're exhausted going up the side of a mountain that weight wont be important compared to having an ergonomic position you can transfer your energy with..and then not having it wasted in flex. I have the deda newton bar. They're stiff and with a great shape. All the PRO brand stuff put out by shimano, which lots of the pros use, is super heavy, but super stiff.
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Bars especially should be chosen based on how they fit. I'm really adamant about having a decent sized amount of bar you can grip in the drops that are almost parallel to the ground. When you're exhausted going up the side of a mountain that weight wont be important compared to having an ergonomic position you can transfer your energy with..and then not having it wasted in flex. I have the deda newton bar. They're stiff and with a great shape. All the PRO brand stuff put out by shimano, which lots of the pros use, is super heavy, but super stiff.
Escape from the weight weenie section
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FWIW I picked up a set of brand new zipp sl handlebars (NOS) on ebay (40cm c-c) for $162 shipped. They weighed 157g (on my scale).
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Just make sure they aren't fake.
I don't disagree with you that bars should absolutely be chosen for personal comfort and fit. I think they're as important as saddles - I am very, very particular about bars and saddles. It just so happens that the absolute best fitting/comfortable bars I've ever ridden are also carbon fiber and fairly light (200 gm). If I could find the exact shape in an alloy bar, I'd buy 3 of them tomorrow, no matter what the weight, as long as the cost was reasonable. Unfortuantely, evidently these fairly classic bars - in terms of the exact forward bend, ramp angle, curve radius, nice long flat ends, and the drop and reach - can't be duplicated in an ally bar, so I've had to make compromises (because I don't care to spend the $$ it would take to buy more of the CF ones... I got the originals for very, very cheap).
What I (maybe) disagree is that I know that usually you can do both - get the best bars for your comfort and fit, and if you don't mind spending the money, get some very strong, stiff and lightweight bars.
There's nothing wrong with being a weight weenie as long as you do it within what actually serves you well riding the bike.
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Been at this for awhile now. They're the real deal, it's pretty easy to spot a fake set of zipp bars, of course rule one would be not to buy them from outside the US, asia in particular (which I didn't). Packaging and a serial # check works quite nicely.
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Glad to hear that you know what you're doing!
This has become an issue of interest to me ever since I almost bought some FSA fakes.
Many brands are copied now, including Zipp, and I get the impression that there's a lot of that stuff on fleabay.
Are these actual weights? If so, pretty nice for the price.
That's what I measured. though my scale is hardly the most accurate scale ever built i think there may be a +/- 10 gram difference. still, I'm happy even if my scale is optimistic. so far the bike with everything hung on the frame (look 585 ultra) except for the wheels/cassette/tire/skewers and the gear cables weighs in at ~4200 grams.
Cool. I have an older (26.0 bar clamp) WCS stem in 90mm and it's about 105gm which I thought was great for the price. It's a top class stem, I think. Sounds like a nice bike in the works!
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I'd say stay with what you have, I have a teammate using the deda newton bar and stem in the nice silver/gunmetal type finish, very nice looking, and the bar though I haven't used it looks like a nice bend and drop. I use the FSA os99 or Ritchey WCS stems, not much over 100 grams maybe 110 for a 110lengh for a bar I use a FSA energy bar the older model with a nice bend and a more drop then the current models, and I have a WCS round drop on one bike as well there both in the 230-240 range for a 44CM OS bar, used to use and nonoversized WCS bar and stem, even lighter, bar was like 210g stem close to same as OS version, but the added stiffness of the OS bar and stem is worth it, never used a carbon bar, don't think it's worth the price or the risk, to save a couple grams, I also race cross so I want a tough enough bar in case of a crash etc.
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Light does not necessarily equate to "flexy", or fragile, or any other urban myth floating out there regarding light weight parts. There are plenty of very stiff, very light bars and stems out there, depending on what you are looking for. All things being equal that extra weight most certainly will be important when you are exhausted going up the side of the mountain. A light bike will save you way more energy over a long ride than you think.
And to answer the OP's question, no, they are not weight weenie.
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