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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I broke my SRAM Red derailleur short cage. I ordered a medium cage to better help accommodate a 11-28 cassette that I ordered at the same time. I would love to keep the 11-18 cassette on there but the medium cage on the 10 speed SRAM Red derailleur doesn't seem to fit right. I ordered the right part according to SRAM. I am now getting chain slap just from pedaling hard then suddenly stopping or when standing and climbing then pausing the standing and pedaling again.

I tried to wind the cage around another time on the spring but that didn't work either. Chain is the correct length to 52-28 set up.

So Question, Would switching from a short to a medium cage create less tension in the cage and cause that chain slap? OR what is going on?

Even the LBS doesn't know how to fix it...HELP!
 

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Banned Sock Puppet
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It sounds like the chain is too long. Try removing a link, but BEWARE - before you ride, make ABSOLUTELY sure the chain does not bind in the large/large combo! As long as you can shift smoothly into the large/large, you are golden.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It sounds like the chain is too long. Try removing a link, but BEWARE - before you ride, make ABSOLUTELY sure the chain does not bind in the large/large combo! As long as you can shift smoothly into the large/large, you are golden.
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Do you still think I need to take out another chain link?
 

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It looks like you could take another link out to me.
But, what I would do is just go with 2 chains, one longer for the 28, another shorter for the 18 or whatever. You can use a connex link to break the chains.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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You absolutely DO NOT need to remove a link. If your chain is getting thrown into the chainstay when you stop pedaling it has NOTHING to do w/ the derailleur and everything to do w/ the freehub, unless the locking is hitting the frame, and then it's still probably a freehub issue. If you size the chain properly (small/small) you only need one chain because the chain is sized in the 11 for both, the length of the cage determines whether you have enough chain or not for the big cog.

DO NOT take apart a brand new derailleur and attempt to add more spring tension when you have no idea whether this is actually the problem or not. Shops charge extra for fixing stupid stuff like this when you eventually bring it in to them. I do, anyway.
 

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What cxwrench said. First thing that came to mind when you described the issue was 'I bet he has a Mavic wheel', then sure enough you posted a pic...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You absolutely DO NOT need to remove a link. If your chain is getting thrown into the chainstay when you stop pedaling it has NOTHING to do w/ the derailleur and everything to do w/ the freehub, unless the locking is hitting the frame, and then it's still probably a freehub issue. If you size the chain properly (small/small) you only need one chain because the chain is sized in the 11 for both, the length of the cage determines whether you have enough chain or not for the big cog.

DO NOT take apart a brand new derailleur and attempt to add more spring tension when you have no idea whether this is actually the problem or not. Shops charge extra for fixing stupid stuff like this when you eventually bring it in to them. I do, anyway.
Right on. I took the derailleur apart only after I snapped the carbon SRAM Red cage on it. I put the aluminum rival cage (SRAM said it was compatible). I just went from a short cage to a medium cage. I asked the shop owner to walk me through the process (he is an awesome guy) and we took it apart and back together. I'm sure the cage is installed properly.

As far as the freehub idea, I could put a different set of wheels on there and give it a go... see if it still does it or not.
 

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This is clearly a chronic problem with Mavic wheels?
Yes, in the sense that Mavic hubs must be cleaned and serviced/lubed regularly. If not, they can get bad pretty fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, in the sense that Mavic hubs must be cleaned and serviced/lubed regularly. If not, they can get bad pretty fast.
Hmmmm.... These are take off wheels. I took them off my CAAD12 in Jan (when I got it) so they are brand new wheels.
 

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Still not entirely surprised. If they are new then it should be easy, you'll just need to pull the FH body and lube the seal, something lightweight, don't use grease or anything sticky. It's common enough that any 'good' shop guy should have the same reaction we are.
 

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Hmmmm.... These are take off wheels. I took them off my CAAD12 in Jan (when I got it) so they are brand new wheels.
Could be a defective freehub. Happened to my SO's bike. Had it *maybe* three days and the freehub self-destructed.

Your wheel swap idea would confirm it.
 

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Ummmmmm, NO! :yikes:

I don't see how a freehub can cause this, but listen to CX. He's a very experienced bike mechanic and knows more than I.
With a sticky freehub even a slight backpedal will cause the chain on top to go slack.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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OK, this makes sense!
And when you just stop pedaling the freehub will want to continue to spin so it will push the chain forward, and it's always worse in the smaller cogs as they have less leverage due to their smaller diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And when you just stop pedaling the freehub will want to continue to spin so it will push the chain forward, and it's always worse in the smaller cogs as they have less leverage due to their smaller diameter.
Alright so I swapped out wheels today and rode it around the black. I think it is the freehub body but I will have to take it for a spin tomorrow and see if that was it.

Got any suggestions for a brand new BB30 SRAM (press-in bearings) BB that is squeaky? Brand new bearings, just pressed in... grrrrr
 

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Better install technique? Clean to the point you can eat off the shell, bearings, etc. Loctite primer then 609 retaining compound, a real bearing press with correct drifts, and 24hrs to cure before riding.
If it still makes noise, it's something else.
 
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