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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
First up, thanks for reading, any help is greatfully received.

So, i have a 2014 Mekk Primo 7.0 with 6870 di2 ultegra (external battery). The wheels I have are similar age Campagnolo Zonda wheels.

I have had a nightmare as had a snapped derailleur and derailluer hanger.

The new (and old one as this caused the problem) will not index very well.

The indexing has meant that I cant get the chain to go into the smallest (11t) cog on the cassette.

My current workaround is effectively using my limit screws to stop the derailleur going off either end of the cassette to protect my RD (the 1st 2 gears are both for the 28t cog as a result) as 10 gears are better than it destroying itself again)

I have used the micro adjustments on the derailleur to move the RD as far towards the smallest cog as possible but it will still not get there.

Things I know that were possible solutions that are not applicable.
1) bent hanger - the hanger is brand new (replaced following last incident)
2) spacer behind cassette - checked there is not one.

It appears that effectively the cassette is too far outboard for the RD to reach the smallest cog.

Only solutions I can think of are...
1) spacer/washer outboard of the cassette, to move the frame slightly outboard and therefore potentially allow the RD to reach the 11t cog
2) washer between the RD and the frame to move the rear derailleur outboard (similar to no1)

Any ideas or solutions would be much appreciated as im lost.

Im thinking that the Zonda wheels do seem to "push" the cassette outboard, whilst there is not a spacer, however it does seem to have flanges that seem to do the same type of thing.

Thanks,
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just because it's a new hanger doesn't mean it's in alignment. It might still need to be tweaked.
Thanks, would that no indicate something wrong with the frame? As a brand new/flat hanger should just be fit and go, it cant be bent new from factory?
 

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Thanks, would that no indicate something wrong with the frame?
It could.
Or the hanger mount on the frame could've just been a tad out of alignment when it was made. Doesn't mean there's anything wrong with it. This is quite normal.

"Even brand-new hangers need to be aligned properly sometimes."


This pro bike mechanic posted on another forum. (you might recognize him)
cxwrench
Senior Member

I put the tool on every new bike I build. At least half need some adjustment. I find it amazing that the OP would try to adjust for "a few months" and not check the hanger. The very first thing I do when someone brings in a bike that isn't shifting correctly is to put in the stand and then look at it from behind. I won't try to shift it or anything before looking at the hanger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It could.
Or the hanger mount on the frame could've just been a tad out of alignment when it was made. Doesn't mean there's anything wrong with it. This is quite normal.

"Even brand-new hangers need to be aligned properly sometimes."


This pro bike mechanic posted on another forum. (you might recognize him)
cxwrench
Senior Member

I put the tool on every new bike I build. At least half need some adjustment. I find it amazing that the OP would try to adjust for "a few months" and not check the hanger. The very first thing I do when someone brings in a bike that isn't shifting correctly is to put in the stand and then look at it from behind. I won't try to shift it or anything before looking at the hanger.
Appreciate the helpful response. I was sadly under the (wrong) impression that it should just fit and go given how expensive they are.

I had the bike in Evans Cycles for over a month, trying to debug a compatibly problem between my 6870 group and a new 8050 RD.

I like to fix things myself where possible, but just when you think bikes are getting easier to fix, boom, its more of an artform than a science.

Need to find myself a decent LBS, cant let Evans look at it again.

Thanks again,
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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It's not that the hangers are 'bent' or 'not straight' when new, they always are dead on. It's once you install it on the frame, the relationship between the frame and hanger makes the hanger out of alignment. You have to check the alignment between the two and adjust if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's not that the hangers are 'bent' or 'not straight' when new, they always are dead on. It's once you install it on the frame, the relationship between the frame and hanger makes the hanger out of alignment. You have to check the alignment between the two and adjust if needed.
Thanks, appreciate your help.
Think i summed it up before, bike mechanical work is equal part art as science.
The simple part of me, thinks it "should" just work when you are spending £3500 for a bike. But I guess thats just too easy. :)
 

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That's like saying 'my derailleurs should just work' when I put them on my bike.

If you want that kind precision manufacturing, you're going to need to pay a hella lot more than £3500.
Not to mention that even the greatest most precise drivetrain won't work properly if it isn't set up correctly.
 

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It used to work fine, then driver error happened & I broke it, yadda yadda. Then I fixed it and it hasn't worked right since! Yadda, yadda.
Troll much?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That's like saying 'my derailleurs should just work' when I put them on my bike.

If you want that kind precision manufacturing, you're going to need to pay a hella lot more than £3500.
I dont agree one bit. The fine tuning of a derailluer is entirely different to 2 static parts coming off a shelf not going into alignment out of the box.

Its like building a table or wardrobe and going, best get the "wardrobe alignment tool" because Ikea cant build the parts to fit together.

Just because things are "the way they are" does not mean it is right.

Thanks anyways for your help, genuinely appreciate the insight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Bit of an update, sent the bike into the LBS and the hanger alignment was fine. They seemed at a loss as to why it would shift into the 11 speed cog.

I have decided to see if I can resolve the problem with a washer. I have put a small washer between the hanger and the derailleur to effectively have the RD a couple of mm outboard.

After fiddling with the micro adjustment and limit screws I now have 22 working gears.

I have trawled the web for this and no real explaination. The only thing I can think of is some wierd interaction between the cassette and the campy zonda wheels (shimano freehub) that seems to make the cassette a few mm more outboard than normal.

I will have to keep an eye on things, making sure the B tension screw remains seated nicely.

Hopefully my experience helps anyone else with similar issues.
 
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