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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

A few months ago my LBS replaced the BB30 bearings in my Cannondale Synapse. Then, a few weeks ago they replaced my Di2 battery and tidied up the cables internally. I mention the last point as it's not impossible they took out the cranks as part of that tidying process.

Cut to last week and I started getting clicking noises when under power which then progressed to several times a stroke. Through various tests I narrowed it down to the bottom bracket and so I took out the crankset. After doing so, I discovered the non-driveside bearing a little loose to the point where I can wobble it with my fingers (tapping out the crankshaft caused the bearings to be pushed out by about 5mm also). This was not the case prior to them fixing the bearings last year.

What could have gone wrong and is my LBS to blame? If they aren't (or are, but refuse to do anything about it) what can I do?

Thanks!

[EDIT: removed superlatives so I don't confuse the matter]
 

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I don't work on many Cannondales but I have worked on BB30 stuff a bunch. Seems to me if you tried to press a bearing into a frame and it started off as crooked as you could get it...and you kept going...one could damage a frame to the extent that the bearing wasn't tight. Like I said, you'd have to try pretty hard and most likely f it up more than once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't work on many Cannondales but I have worked on BB30 stuff a bunch. Seems to me if you tried to press a bearing into a frame and it started off as crooked as you could get it...and you kept going...one could damage a frame to the extent that the bearing wasn't tight. Like I said, you'd have to try pretty hard and most likely f it up more than once.
Then my LBS messed up my bike? :/ Is there any remedy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That sounds pretty drastic. If my LBS doesn't play ball I think I'll try Loctite 641; it says it can bridge 0.15mm and I'd be surprised if it's that far out all round. Failing that I'll give 660 a go if things start to look serious.

How the hell could they have messed it up though? As cxwrench says, they'd really have to had tried hard and they are a respected shop.
 

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That sounds pretty drastic. If my LBS doesn't play ball I think I'll try Loctite 641; it says it can bridge 0.15mm and I'd be surprised if it's that far out all round. Failing that I'll give 660 a go if things start to look serious.

How the hell could they have messed it up though? As cxwrench says, they'd really have to had tried hard and they are a respected shop.
I think you'll be hard pressed to definitively prove the LBS did something wrong. Just too many variables.
Loctite will just be a temporary fix. It'll eventually loosen again. Any loctite strong enough to prevent loosening will make replacing the bearings extremely difficult or impossible.

I would consider a BB30 threaded adapter. BB30 Outboard ABEC-3 BB for 24mm Cranks (Shimano) - Black If you have a 30mm crank, it would require a new 24mm crank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, that's my worry too re LBS :(

Well I'm selling the bike anyway and happy to recommend the adapter to the new owner (I like to be very honest when selling). In the meantime I'll clean it all up and apply some 641 so the clicking doesn't annoy me further.
 

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There's no way to put this on the shop unless you personally saw them perform the install. I'd be curious to know how loose the new bearings went in after the "significantly worn" bearings came out. If this was the case then they may have thought retaining compound would be enough to hold it (it obviously didn't), and they should have told you, but the damage would not be their fault.
I've worked with hundreds of BB30 bikes and the only one that ever had a bore blown as badly as you're describing was because the guy kept riding it with bearings that were shot for far too long. With the bearings being partially seized they were moving in the bore and chewed it up. It was actually so bad that we had to use a bearing puller to get the bearing off the crank spindle. Seizing to the spindle and then moving in the frame is pretty common on bikes that see poor weather and infrequent service.
I agree that a poor install 'could' cause this, but only if they were installing it with a hammer. If they used the correct pilots and press, then I'm not sure I can see how it's possible to have the alignment off by enough to wallow out the bore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It definitely wasn't that worn for sure; they were a bit grindy but far from seized. They'd only done about 6000km from memory. As it happens I sent the LBS an email yesterday asking about whether or not they discovered something during the installation process and I'll let you know the response.
 

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No matter what you try, that BB30 in the Cannondale will be an ongoing problem. After many attempts to get my CAAD 10 sorted, I went with an adapter as mentioned above.

Jim D
 
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