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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
According to the Park web site I don't (per Park: Some models of Shimano®, Race Face®, FSA®, Truvativ® and SRAM® cranks include the one-key system. No crank puller is required for these systems.), but according to many threads here it seems I do. I have a park CCW-5 crank wrench which is what I thought was all I needed.

I tried to remove the crank last night and as I turned the wrench counter-clockwise, the nut loosened, but then tightened up again. Is that how it is supposed to work, just loosen a bit and then pull off? or should the nut continue to unscrew?

Also, do I need to remove the retaining cap, again per Park I shouldn't.

Please take me through step-by-step. I have looked at other threads on this topic but am still unclear.

Thanks for your help.
 

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NeoRetroGrouch
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Uprwstsdr said:
According to the Park web site I don't (per Park: Some models of Shimano®, Race Face®, FSA®, Truvativ® and SRAM® cranks include the one-key system. No crank puller is required for these systems.), but according to many threads here it seems I do. I have a park CCW-5 crank wrench which is what I thought was all I needed.

I tried to remove the crank last night and as I turned the wrench counter-clockwise, the nut loosened, but then tightened up again. Is that how it is supposed to work, just loosen a bit and then pull off? or should the nut continue to unscrew?

Also, do I need to remove the retaining cap, again per Park I shouldn't.

Please take me through step-by-step. I have looked at other threads on this topic but am still unclear.

Thanks for your help.
You were correct; just stopped too soon. You loosened the bolt and then the head butted up against the backside of the 'cap'. Keep turning and it will push the crank off. - TF

EDIT: Make sure that the 'cap' is all the way in (no threads showing) or it may just strip the threads off. - TF
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
TurboTurtle said:
You were correct; just stopped too soon. You loosened the bolt and then the head butted up against the backside of the 'cap'. Keep turning and it will push the crank off. - TF

EDIT: Make sure that the 'cap' is all the way in (no threads showing) or it may just strip the threads off. - TF
Got it. I will keep turning. The cap is all the way in, I have not touched it. Do I need to be wary of it coming out as I remove the crank?
 

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Banned forever.....or not
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If you have the tool to remove the cap, I always take it off, add some grease to the top of the bolt, and reinstall the cap. The crank always comes off easier that way.
 

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Overequipped, underlegged
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you don't need it, but i'd get one anyway. Mine cost me 6 bucks and works pretty well, and stripping the dust cap threads can trash your cranks.
I've heard plenty of horror stories about stripping and cross-threading the cranks due to the self-extracting feature.
 

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When I reinstall the cranks, I always take off the one-key remover, so that I can't screw up the Octalink splines. Once I'm sure that that splines are engaged, I put the one-key cap back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The cranks are off, and everything seems fine. On one side there are maybe 1 -2 threads on the cap are exposed. I will re-install tonight. My plan is to keep the cap on be careful.

Should I grease the threads first?
Is a torque wrench mandatory (please say no as I don't have one)?
Should I put the chain rings on before or after installing the crank?
 

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Should I grease the threads first?
Is a torque wrench mandatory (please say no as I don't have one)?
Should I put the chain rings on before or after installing the crank?

1) Always a good idea.....(and the splines)
2) No
3) Doesn't matter
 
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