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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im just about to upgrade groupset from ultegra 6500 -> ultg 6600
one is the 9 spd octalink (6500) and the other HT II.
the facing was originally done with a top end bikeshop when I bought the bike (I presume :eek:)
Will this changeover require any new facing for the BB shell or anything fancy like that?
infact when does facing need to be done at all? reading up on it it sounds like it needs to be done with every BB change..but if that was the case you'd have no shell left after years and years :p
any help with this appreciated.

cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Kretzel...

like I said I got the bike from a pro shop and so I presume they did this the first time, and given the fact its been bomb proof for like 5 years :eek:
Id say they did a damn good job of it that time. I was just a bit concerned to read on the park tools site about this being especially important for external bearings like the one Im/shop is installing...and wanted to doulbe check..as then maybe I could do it..but then again I need to buy the tools and it would prob work out the same price to get a shop to do it!
 

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another tip...

If you install the bearing cups to touch a .010 feeler gage and then use .008-.012 inch feelers to check for high or low spots, you'll know whether the facing was done well. Of course there must be no paint on the faces of the BB shell. That's how I checked my LOOK 585 before installing a Campy Chorus UT crank and it's spinning great, with no facing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
follow up..but what about the TL-FC16??

just updating you lot on the progress of my BB installation.
I had the shop take out the old cartridge bb (6500) and put in the external 6600 type.
I was watching him do it, and from what I could see there was still paint (except chips from the pressure of the BB pressing against the shell) on the shell, so Curlybike I guess the original shop didnt actually face it afterall! :eek: so maybe it didnt need facing
in the first place ...or at least I hope that was the case..as the new ones now in...

now to hijack my own thread :D

Im now putting the cranks on and it says I need the TL-FC16 (for the dust cap)
but didnt know that until now after reading instructions...jes shamano are getting worse..now they want you to buy a seperate tool for opening/closing the dust caps! :rolleyes:

anywho Im going away and cant get one before then :mad2: , so is there a reliable way to get enough pressure using 'a normal' tool in an innovative way, any tricks to do he same job as the special tool??

cheers.
 

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You only needed one tool. The Park Tool bottom bracket tool, BBT-9, has both of what you need to completely install Hollowtech II bottom brackets and cranks:

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=25&item=BBT-9

If you look at the specified torque for the cap, you'll notice that it's really just finger tight. So any thing that catches the internal splines of the adjustment cap will do.
 

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There is a lot of talk about facing BB shells on the forum but most modern frames specially the carbon ones don't need it unless of course you happen to have the tools which means you have to get your money's worth out of it.
 

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With square taper and Octalink BBs, the cups sit inside the BB shell, so there's no need to face. Facing is recommended for external BBs (e.g. Hollowtech II) because, if you don't, you can develop a creak from the BB cup not sitting perfectly flush against the frame.

IMO, pull the new BB, have the shell faced, and reinstall it. I hate having a noisy bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
cheers all!

Curlybike: as I said Im goin away in a few days, and I was doing very well
getting the shop to take my bike at all...basically the guy squeezed it in about 20 min before he was leaving for the day..as a favour kind of deal so he couldnt really face it then and I didnt have the heart to ask...I figured I saw the process saw what he done and can always get it sorted propper whn I come back, or at the next service interval myself.

Dr John: yeah thats what I was thinking before posting, I tried a needle nose pliers, wedged into the notches, just wanted to confim if this was a reliable way to go..cheers :thumbsup:

thanks to all who posted along the way so far :thumbsup:

and I hope to get it sorted (re-installed when I come back before a creak develops which would wreck my head)

apart from a creaking, theres nothing structurally wrong with this situation is there?
I wont kill it if I DO NOTHING FOR A WHILE WILL I???:confused:
 

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Becky said:
With square taper and Octalink BBs, the cups sit inside the BB shell, so there's no need to face. Facing is recommended for external BBs (e.g. Hollowtech II) because, if you don't, you can develop a creak from the BB cup not sitting perfectly flush against the frame.

IMO, pull the new BB, have the shell faced, and reinstall it. I hate having a noisy bike.


technically it's cartridge BBs that don't need the facing... old-style square taper BBs (rebuildable ones w/ cups, loose bearing and axle) need it, esp so... you need those bearing surfaces parallel. same with externals, the need to face is back. hmm, perhaps someone will come up with a conspiracy theory regarding development of external bearing BBs
 

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FatTireFred said:
technically it's cartridge BBs that don't need the facing... old-style square taper BBs (rebuildable ones w/ cups, loose bearing and axle) need it, esp so... you need those bearing surfaces parallel. same with externals, the need to face is back. hmm, perhaps someone will come up with a conspiracy theory regarding development of external bearing BBs
That makes a lot of sense- thanks for the clarification. So, if the bearing surfaces aren't parallel, will this cause uneven wear?
 

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wrong...

Becky said:
With square taper and Octalink BBs, the cups sit inside the BB shell, so there's no need to face. Facing is recommended for external BBs (e.g. Hollowtech II) because, if you don't, you can develop a creak from the BB cup not sitting perfectly flush against the frame.

IMO, pull the new BB, have the shell faced, and reinstall it. I hate having a noisy bike.
All BBs have at least one face (the right side) that bears angainst the face of the BB shell, and may require facing to stay tight and properly align the right side cup.
 
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