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Discussion Starter #1
I recently upgraded my ride and got a power meter. I decided I wanted to keep my "old" bike on the trainer and transfer the PM back and forth. I got a Quarq PM. I know what you'll say about moving back and forth, but I got it brand new for $300 and the amount of times I will actually move back and forth was worth it to me. I had to get a new BB for the trainer bike. When I put the new PM/crankset on the trainer bike, the outer side of the chain now rubs against the FD.

1) Is this just in need of an adjustment due to a different BB, or did I install it incorrectly (a spacer when when wasn't needed, etc? I followed the directions I thought correctly, but you never know).

2) If requiring an FD adjustment, is this as simple as adjusting the limit screws? The inline barrel adjuster doesn't seem to do anything, but maybe those adjustments are too micro to notice?

Thanks.
 

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Just had my first 3 indoor rides on my "old"... with a curb donation, no frills trainer.
And I have a lot of newbie questions about it.
And you're swapping cranks for power data.
Sounds like your going seriously indoor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Same chainrings. I just installed them on the new spider. Did need new crank arms though. Does that change your outlook?
 

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opps .. wrong thread... the puppet's got me in a fit frenzy ...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, bear with me please. I watched the Park video and have tried the stuff mentioned. There is rub on the outer portion of the cage when in the big ring and a somewhat large gap to the inside of the cage when in the small ring. The chain also drops off when going from big to little. I have max-ed out the limit screws.

So, next step is adjust the cable tension, right? Less tension?
 

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So, bear with me please. I watched the Park video and have tried the stuff mentioned. There is rub on the outer portion of the cage when in the big ring and a somewhat large gap to the inside of the cage when in the small ring. The chain also drops off when going from big to little. I have max-ed out the limit screws.

So, next step is adjust the cable tension, right? Less tension?
Sounds like more tension is what you need.

Art's Cyclery has an excellent video on this:

 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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I should have asked which shifter as well. If mated w/ a compatible shifter this derailleur is stupid easy to set up. Before you hook up the cable make sure the height and angle (none, should be parallel to the chainrings and 2-3mm above the top of the teeth on the big ring.) Shift to the large cog in back and set the low limit...1mm from chain to inside cage plate. Turn any barrel adjusters in. Attach cable w/ some tension. Shift rear to small cog. If the bike has external cables pull on the frt der cable to shift up to the big ring...do this slowly so if the high limit is too loose you won't overshift and scratch the crank. If it's internal just use the shifter but do it the same way. Adjust high limit the same as the low. Adjust the cable tension so that the inner frt der cage plate just clears the chain when in the trimmed position and large cog in the back.
Done.
 

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I should have asked which shifter as well. If mated w/ a compatible shifter this derailleur is stupid easy to set up. Before you hook up the cable make sure the height and angle (none, should be parallel to the chainrings and 2-3mm above the top of the teeth on the big ring.) Shift to the large cog in back and set the low limit...1mm from chain to inside cage plate. Turn any barrel adjusters in. Attach cable w/ some tension. Shift rear to small cog. If the bike has external cables pull on the frt der cable to shift up to the big ring...do this slowly so if the high limit is too loose you won't overshift and scratch the crank. If it's internal just use the shifter but do it the same way. Adjust high limit the same as the low. Adjust the cable tension so that the inner frt der cage plate just clears the chain when in the trimmed position and large cog in the back.
Done.
@lightning33 , I should have asked as well. The Art's video is for the 6800 and could confuse things as the trim positions work differently on earlier generations. The 6600 is easier to set up, but as you found out, chain drop is more of a problem. Maybe cxwrench can confirm, but there is no low trim position on the way down and therefore you are more likely to drop the chain. The only way to prevent or even reduce this problem is to downshift to the small ring before you get into the larger cogs in back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks all. I just started from the beginning and unhooked the cable and started "fresh." The FD could have been in the right alignment/height, but I redid it anyway. I do think I put some more tension on the cable, although I have no way of knowing that for a fact.

It all seems to be working now. Thanks again.
 

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all of this for indoor riding on a trainer ...that's how we learn.
 

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all of this for indoor riding on a trainer ...that's how we learn.
What...you think the OP shouldn't have bothered because he's riding indoors? I have the hardest time figuring out what you're getting at some of the time.
 

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What...you think the OP shouldn't have bothered because he's riding indoors? I have the hardest time figuring out what you're getting at some of the time.


Adjusting bike to spec is fine ... but this sounds like it’s for just for the power meters data for indoor continuity.
 

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What...you think the OP shouldn't have bothered because he's riding indoors? I have the hardest time figuring out what you're getting at some of the time.
I think he's trying to get banned again. You know the 3rd time is the charm.
 
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