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I made the mistake purchasing this stand to hold an aero seat post bike.
Are their any mods anyone knows that can make this work?

Thanks
Mike
 

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Great stand, I sww two option for you.
- Option 1 Clamp on the top tube but place a towel to avoid any scratches.
- Option 2 Buy a really cheap seatpost and exchange to that one everytime you want to clamp your bike to the stand.

Cheers,

Paul
 

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Great stand, I sww two option for you.
- Option 1 Clamp on the top tube but place a towel to avoid any scratches.
- Option 2 Buy a really cheap seatpost and exchange to that one everytime you want to clamp your bike to the stand.

Cheers,

Paul
Stop giving advice on the internet Paul, you are causing more harm than good.

NEVER do as quoted above. NEVER clamp a carbon bike by the top tube.

A towel to prevent scratches? Oh my. You have no clue. Go read the manual that came with your carbon frame to find out why.

And for option 2, there is no such thing. Aero posts are proprietary to the frame, that's the entire point of this thread. You can't just swap it with a cheap round post... they don't fit in the frame.

Like I said, you need to stop giving advice on the internet, seriously.
 

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Stop giving advice on the internet Paul, you are causing more harm than good.

NEVER do as quoted above. NEVER clamp a carbon bike by the top tube.

A towel to prevent scratches? Oh my. You have no clue. Go read the manual that came with your carbon frame to find out why.

And for option 2, there is no such thing. Aero posts are proprietary to the frame, that's the entire point of this thread. You can't just swap it with a cheap round post... they don't fit in the frame.

Like I said, you need to stop giving advice on the internet, seriously.

Heavy handed, but MMsRepBike is correct. Clamping carbon - BIG NO-NO! Towel will not save carbon from cracking under pressure. In fact, you should not clamp a bike stand down on ANY bike tubing. Alloy seat posts are OK to clamp down on as they are thicker tubing. Not to mention in the unlikely scenario where you do trash an alloy seat post, it is way cheaper to replace than a bike frame!

While not ideal, you can still put the seatpost in the clamping area, but not tighten it down. Just let the seat rails rest down on it. Like I said, not ideal, but usable this way for anything where you don't need rigid support in the stand.

Other than that, you will need to buy the type of stand Migen or TriCrossRich recommended.
 

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FWIW, I was going to get the Feedback Sprint, but opted for the Elite Race stand, for about half the price from Performance, instead. While the upper mount/rail portion works OK, the bottom bracket rest may not allow all bottom brackets to sit perfectly with some carbon bikes, if they are asymmetrically shaped (like mine). The stand's legs also had a bit of an issue where the spring retention clips came either missing, broken, or too difficult to retract (possibly due to the mounting holes being too small not allowing the pins to slide freely), along with some of the leg clamps being difficult to lock the legs in place when trying to fold them out (again, clamps were a bit snug). Though once setup, the stand was very stable, and I had no issues cleaning the drive train on both my carbon and steel bikes, even when swinging the bike around.

Based on the videos of the Feedback Sprint I've seen, it seems like the fit and finish is a bit better than the Elite. Never having used one, based on the videos, it seems like the Feedback is easier to setup and break down than the Elite. However the Elite may offer a few more mounting options/positions, and support more axle types? I'm debating whether to return it for the minor issues I have, but for what I'm going to use it for (cleaning/drive train adjustments), it should suffice. If you want to save a few dollars, and unable to find the Sprint for under $200, which I've seen before, the Elite should work for most applications.
 

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However the Elite may offer a few more mounting options/positions, and support more axle types?
I can't imagine this is true... the Feedback sprint stand quite literally, supports ALL of the current standards on the market for both road and mountain bikes. I've used mine to work on my fatboy in addition to my road bikes.
 

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I can't imagine this is true... the Feedback sprint stand quite literally, supports ALL of the current standards on the market for both road and mountain bikes. I've used mine to work on my fatboy in addition to my road bikes.
Fair enough...I hadn't looked into it passed supporting standard road. I just didn't want to wait any longer for the price to drop back under $200 on amazon.
 

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The Sprint is extremely adaptable - you can not only mount any current axle standard on the front, but you can also mount it by the rear dropouts to facilitate working on the front of the bike.

It raises up and down easily, spins easily to get access to all sides, etc... I love mine.

Depending on what type of work you are doing, you may want to wrap a velcro strap around the BB area to prevent it from slipping off or moving around - although I rarely find this necessary.
 

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I have the Sprint stand and its is an Awesome work stand. Its everything that TricrossRich and Migen21 say it is. Its very easy to use, adjust to any bike, work height and the 360 deg swivel is really handy. I found a new one on ebay for a decent price.

Rich...you did a great review and you take some superb photographs. :thumbsup:
 

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In fact, you should not clamp a bike stand down on ANY bike tubing. Alloy seat posts are OK to clamp down on as they are thicker tubing. Not to mention in the unlikely scenario where you do trash an alloy seat post, it is way cheaper to replace than a bike frame!
.
that is BS too though. Mechanics have been clamping on frame tubes for more than a century. It was normal until maybe the last decade or two (I worked as a mech in many shops, even for a custom framemaker 30 years ago). Steel frames and Ti frames don't mind it especially. I still clamp on my Ti seat tubes today (2 ti bikes) but use alloy seatpost in carbon and mtb frames. Bikes do not need to have a heavy clamping force on them, and can usually use a towel or other thick doubled up cloth too. It's just the thin aluminum and all carbon that should never be clamped.

also since I am very tall, it is a total PITA working on a bike clamped by the seat tube. need to sit on a low stool to access the bike. So I like the idea of these BB-fork type work stands which help keep the bike up high, thinking I shoulda got one instead of my Feedback clamp type. At may 2ndhome, I just use the safest bike stand of all: a piece of twine hanging from the ceiling.
 

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that is BS too though. Mechanics have been clamping on frame tubes for more than a century. It was normal until maybe the last decade or two (I worked as a mech in many shops, even for a custom framemaker 30 years ago). Steel frames and Ti frames don't mind it especially. I still clamp on my Ti seat tubes today (2 ti bikes) but use alloy seatpost in carbon and mtb frames. Bikes do not need to have a heavy clamping force on them, and can usually use a towel or other thick doubled up cloth too. It's just the thin aluminum and all carbon that should never be clamped.
OK, I stand corrected on steel and Ti. Still a big no-no on Al and Carbon. Though as you implied, there are many jobs you can do on the bike that don't require it to be tightly clamped.

also since I am very tall, it is a total PITA working on a bike clamped by the seat tube. need to sit on a low stool to access the bike.
Unless you have a stand with adjustable height.

So I like the idea of these BB-fork type work stands..... .
IMO, these would be the biggest PITA. So I need to remove wheels every time I mount the bike on the stand? And how can I run the bike through the gears and adjust the derailleurs without the rear wheel on?


At may 2ndhome, I just use the safest bike stand of all: a piece of twine hanging from the ceiling.
Now there's a cheap and easy solution! Why didn't I think of that? :p
 

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...IMO, these would be the biggest PITA. So I need to remove wheels every time I mount the bike on the stand? And how can I run the bike through the gears and adjust the derailleurs without the rear wheel on?
You could remove front or rear wheel, or "both".

Park Tool type "chain keepers" will allow for adjustments with the rear wheel if rear wheel is off.
 

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I have the Sprint stand and its is an Awesome work stand. Its everything that TricrossRich and Migen21 say it is. Its very easy to use, adjust to any bike, work height and the 360 deg swivel is really handy. I found a new one on ebay for a decent price.

Rich...you did a great review and you take some superb photographs. :thumbsup:
Thanks.


You could remove front or rear wheel, or "both".

Park Tool type "chain keepers" will allow for adjustments with the rear wheel if rear wheel is off.
Correct... you can leave the rear wheel in pace with the feedback Sprint stand.
 

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Unless you have a stand with adjustable height.

p
my Feedback clamp-style stand has adjustable height. But I usually have it at max height already and that is still too low for me. And especially with a full sus mtn bike on there it becomes very unstable - not bad for road bike.
 
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