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UPDATE: It has been over a month so I figured I would give an update. I've got 732 miles on the wheelset according to my Garmin.
4 miles into the first ride I realized quickly that I didn't put enough tension into the rear wheel as spoke began to quickly loosen and the wheel was wobbling pretty bad. :mad2:
I felt like a total tool. I got the wheel ridable and limped it home. I ended up completely redoing the tension and true on both wheels and making sure I took the spokes the the bottom of the nipple.
Since then, I have been absolutely loving my new wheels and have had no problems since. The braking is superb, the handling better and the ride is butta.
...................
So after nearly a year of internal debate, I finally put on my big boy pants and decided to build up a set of wheels. I am very hands on as an automotive master tech and felt I should at least give it a try.
My wheel sets where the old Ritchey DS comp wheel that came on my bike and a set of custom built Alexis Crostini 3.1/3/2 rims, DT Swiss 240s hubs and 24/28 CXRay spokes that I purchased off craigslist last year.
The Alexis wheel set is was very light at 1421 grams but shortly after getting them I knew I would have to replace the rims eventually. They rode extremely smooth but that was because they were noodles and flexed when the wind blew. Then I hit a rather large crack and bent the front rim enough that it was hard to get it to stay true for more than a ride or two.
I spent weeks reading forums and sites (thanks MikeT and the late Sheldon Brown) about wheel building before making any decisions. I really wanted a do-everything wheel that would last and not cost a small fortune. I decided to go with the Archetype H Plus Son rims and Sapim Laser spokes front and NDS and Race on the DS. I decided to reuse the DT Swiss hubs since they were still in great shape. Brandon at BikeHubStore helped answer a few of my additional questions and verified my calculated spoke lengths before my order was made. The order was shipped fast and came nicely packaged. I will absolutely be purchasing from Brandon again.
So first thing to do was get everything set up in my man cave (basement) and start tearing down the old wheel set. That went pretty fast and I took the opportunity to weigh the Alexis wheels. The front was 385 grams and the rear was 412 grams. They are now retired to hanging on the walls of my man cave...probably a better place for them. During the tear down I noticed a lot of spokes were bottomed out on the front wheel and also a lot of corrosion in the nipples which is odd for the dry Colorado climate. Also the front DT Swiss hub paint on the flanges was flaking off so I ended up cleaning it off and polishing just the flanges.
Here is a comparison of the width of the H Plus on the right.
H Plus Son front 24 h wheel weighed in at 474 grams
and the rear 28 h at 482 grams
The difference in spoke weight for the laser's was only 2 grams but the race spokes were 22 grams more for 14 spokes...meh.
I started with the front since I was lacing it radially and figured it would be easier. It took me a few spokes before I got everything in the place I wanted to smoothly install each spoke and nipple. I took my time and got the first side done in probably 20 min.
I am feeling pretty good at this point, I refill my sweet tea and start on the other side. Then my problems begin. About half way through and going pretty smoothly I decided to put the wheel down and take a drink of my tea, that action caused one of the nipples on the first side to back off the spoke and fell inside the rim. It was well greased up and stuck to the sides. I had only been doing a few turns on each one to keep them slack and the movement and such of putting other spokes in must have caused to turn back little and fall off. Ok, don't panic. So I am working at getting the greased nipple out when 3 more back off and naturally fall into the rim. At this point I realize I'm lacking a paddle and just remove the rest so I can tap on the rim and get the nipples out. I get three out pretty quick but the last one really fights me and costs me a good 30 min total.
So I take a breather and start over. This time it goes together much easier and I also give the nipples a few extra turns. I slowly work around the rim and get a nice bit of tension in them when I realize that my hub is one spoke off from the writing lining up with the valve hole. I debate for a good 30 min on what to do...leave it or fix it? As a bit of a perfectionist I have to fix it...so I tear it down again. It's late now so I call it quit's and am frustrated that I am back where I started almost 4 hours prior.
The next morning I am fresh and ready to get started. The front wheel goes together much quicker as I've got my system down now. The hub is lined up and I begin tensioning. I don't have a truing stand so I just use my bike. I struggle for a long while to get the wheel round but after loosening and starting over a few times I manage to finally get the wheel nearly perfect.
Time for the rear. Brandon recommended a 2x for both sides of the rear with the 28 hole so I went with it. I had my old Ritchey wheels for reference and made sure I got the hub lined up perfectly. The rear wheel went together very easy so I was sure I was messing something up. I followed MikeT's instructions very closely as well. Before long I had the DS completed.
And a short while later the wheel was together and ready to start tensioning it.
Having learned my lesson on the front, I took went much slower and more evenly with the tensioning before putting it on my bike to set the dish and true it. After spending a little extra time I got the rim true and round and felt a real sense of pride.
I mounted up a brand new set of Conti 4000s's then rechecked all my clearances before giving it a short test ride. Perfection!! They rode great, not a single ping or pop. I did some hard accelerations and braking and swerved around a bit. After about 5 miles I was back home and checked to see if they were still true and only the rear wheel needed a very slight adjustment.
Here is a pic of the final product:
Total weight with rim tape was 1565 grams vs the 1421 grams but the weight weenie in me purchased Ti skewers from Brandon also. They weigh 43 grams vs my old ones at 106 grams so the net gain is only 81 grams for a far better, 23 mm wheel set built by yours truly.
I hope the post wasn't to long and boring but I really enjoyed building these wheels, even with the problems. Thanks to MikeT for his free and fun to read site, Brandon (BHS) for his help and great service and all the other people whose posts over the last year aided me in making my decisions along the way.
Robert
4 miles into the first ride I realized quickly that I didn't put enough tension into the rear wheel as spoke began to quickly loosen and the wheel was wobbling pretty bad. :mad2:
I felt like a total tool. I got the wheel ridable and limped it home. I ended up completely redoing the tension and true on both wheels and making sure I took the spokes the the bottom of the nipple.
Since then, I have been absolutely loving my new wheels and have had no problems since. The braking is superb, the handling better and the ride is butta.
...................
So after nearly a year of internal debate, I finally put on my big boy pants and decided to build up a set of wheels. I am very hands on as an automotive master tech and felt I should at least give it a try.
My wheel sets where the old Ritchey DS comp wheel that came on my bike and a set of custom built Alexis Crostini 3.1/3/2 rims, DT Swiss 240s hubs and 24/28 CXRay spokes that I purchased off craigslist last year.
The Alexis wheel set is was very light at 1421 grams but shortly after getting them I knew I would have to replace the rims eventually. They rode extremely smooth but that was because they were noodles and flexed when the wind blew. Then I hit a rather large crack and bent the front rim enough that it was hard to get it to stay true for more than a ride or two.
I spent weeks reading forums and sites (thanks MikeT and the late Sheldon Brown) about wheel building before making any decisions. I really wanted a do-everything wheel that would last and not cost a small fortune. I decided to go with the Archetype H Plus Son rims and Sapim Laser spokes front and NDS and Race on the DS. I decided to reuse the DT Swiss hubs since they were still in great shape. Brandon at BikeHubStore helped answer a few of my additional questions and verified my calculated spoke lengths before my order was made. The order was shipped fast and came nicely packaged. I will absolutely be purchasing from Brandon again.

So first thing to do was get everything set up in my man cave (basement) and start tearing down the old wheel set. That went pretty fast and I took the opportunity to weigh the Alexis wheels. The front was 385 grams and the rear was 412 grams. They are now retired to hanging on the walls of my man cave...probably a better place for them. During the tear down I noticed a lot of spokes were bottomed out on the front wheel and also a lot of corrosion in the nipples which is odd for the dry Colorado climate. Also the front DT Swiss hub paint on the flanges was flaking off so I ended up cleaning it off and polishing just the flanges.
Here is a comparison of the width of the H Plus on the right.

H Plus Son front 24 h wheel weighed in at 474 grams

and the rear 28 h at 482 grams

The difference in spoke weight for the laser's was only 2 grams but the race spokes were 22 grams more for 14 spokes...meh.
I started with the front since I was lacing it radially and figured it would be easier. It took me a few spokes before I got everything in the place I wanted to smoothly install each spoke and nipple. I took my time and got the first side done in probably 20 min.

I am feeling pretty good at this point, I refill my sweet tea and start on the other side. Then my problems begin. About half way through and going pretty smoothly I decided to put the wheel down and take a drink of my tea, that action caused one of the nipples on the first side to back off the spoke and fell inside the rim. It was well greased up and stuck to the sides. I had only been doing a few turns on each one to keep them slack and the movement and such of putting other spokes in must have caused to turn back little and fall off. Ok, don't panic. So I am working at getting the greased nipple out when 3 more back off and naturally fall into the rim. At this point I realize I'm lacking a paddle and just remove the rest so I can tap on the rim and get the nipples out. I get three out pretty quick but the last one really fights me and costs me a good 30 min total.
So I take a breather and start over. This time it goes together much easier and I also give the nipples a few extra turns. I slowly work around the rim and get a nice bit of tension in them when I realize that my hub is one spoke off from the writing lining up with the valve hole. I debate for a good 30 min on what to do...leave it or fix it? As a bit of a perfectionist I have to fix it...so I tear it down again. It's late now so I call it quit's and am frustrated that I am back where I started almost 4 hours prior.
The next morning I am fresh and ready to get started. The front wheel goes together much quicker as I've got my system down now. The hub is lined up and I begin tensioning. I don't have a truing stand so I just use my bike. I struggle for a long while to get the wheel round but after loosening and starting over a few times I manage to finally get the wheel nearly perfect.

Time for the rear. Brandon recommended a 2x for both sides of the rear with the 28 hole so I went with it. I had my old Ritchey wheels for reference and made sure I got the hub lined up perfectly. The rear wheel went together very easy so I was sure I was messing something up. I followed MikeT's instructions very closely as well. Before long I had the DS completed.

And a short while later the wheel was together and ready to start tensioning it.

Having learned my lesson on the front, I took went much slower and more evenly with the tensioning before putting it on my bike to set the dish and true it. After spending a little extra time I got the rim true and round and felt a real sense of pride.

I mounted up a brand new set of Conti 4000s's then rechecked all my clearances before giving it a short test ride. Perfection!! They rode great, not a single ping or pop. I did some hard accelerations and braking and swerved around a bit. After about 5 miles I was back home and checked to see if they were still true and only the rear wheel needed a very slight adjustment.
Here is a pic of the final product:

Total weight with rim tape was 1565 grams vs the 1421 grams but the weight weenie in me purchased Ti skewers from Brandon also. They weigh 43 grams vs my old ones at 106 grams so the net gain is only 81 grams for a far better, 23 mm wheel set built by yours truly.
I hope the post wasn't to long and boring but I really enjoyed building these wheels, even with the problems. Thanks to MikeT for his free and fun to read site, Brandon (BHS) for his help and great service and all the other people whose posts over the last year aided me in making my decisions along the way.
Robert