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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got a few CX races in last year on my 29er SS and had a gas. Thought it was time for me to get a CX/Road bike. I live in the mountains so any local road ride brings lots of climbing. There are also lots of two track fire roads. I'm thinking I need a ride that will be a fun road bike but that can rock a few fire roads also.
I picked up a Cannondale CX frame and now the questions begin.
1. WHEELS....Love my stans tubeless set up on my MTB. Would like some wheels that can take a beat down yet not be anchors. Tubeless would be sweet.
2. CRANKSET.....Not looking to push a corncob with a 53t, I get enough of that on my SS. Would I be ok on the down the hill flatlander road rides with a CX 46/34. What the hell is a "compact" crank. If I was rolling with a 46/34 with a bunch of roadie would I be the tool of the group? The frame take a BB30, wth is that? Major crank confusion here.
3. BRAKES.....Have no idea what's good. Shorty 4 vs. shorty 6?? Kore?? The TRP's look cool but I dont have any extra bars of gold. Bueler?
4. GEAR CHANGING STUFF..... I'm looking at SRAM Force for all the shifty stuff. Any problem with that?
I guess that's it. Thanks for the advice
mark
 

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markgoldsmith said:
Got a few CX races in last year on my 29er SS and had a gas. Thought it was time for me to get a CX/Road bike. I live in the mountains so any local road ride brings lots of climbing. There are also lots of two track fire roads. I'm thinking I need a ride that will be a fun road bike but that can rock a few fire roads also.
I picked up a Cannondale CX frame and now the questions begin.
1. WHEELS....Love my stans tubeless set up on my MTB. Would like some wheels that can take a beat down yet not be anchors. Tubeless would be sweet.
2. CRANKSET.....Not looking to push a corncob with a 53t, I get enough of that on my SS. Would I be ok on the down the hill flatlander road rides with a CX 46/34. What the hell is a "compact" crank. If I was rolling with a 46/34 with a bunch of roadie would I be the tool of the group? The frame take a BB30, wth is that? Major crank confusion here.
3. BRAKES.....Have no idea what's good. Shorty 4 vs. shorty 6?? Kore?? The TRP's look cool but I dont have any extra bars of gold. Bueler?
4. GEAR CHANGING STUFF..... I'm looking at SRAM Force for all the shifty stuff. Any problem with that?
I guess that's it. Thanks for the advice
mark


1. Tubeless....not so much for racing just yet. Every person I know including myself who's tried tubeless (proper Hutchinson tubeless too) has come away disappointed. At low enough pressures that they become viable on a cyclocross bike tubeless just can't hold a bead. They burp air. Go with true tubulars for racing and a nice set of clinchers for training/riding.

2. 46-36 with a 11-28 is a very versatile race/riding gear setup if you aren't doing fast road group rides...anything over 30 mph and things get spinny and no fun. Compact crank is a new standard and not really worth looking at for a cross bike (in my opinion) BB30 is Cannondales press fit bearing BB standard, it's good and besides Cannondale I believe FSA makes BB30 cranksets.

3. Sooo many "good" brakes out there. Many believe AVID's squeal and shudder but I'm convinced it's a brake setup issue, all canti's will shudder if not set up right. Pick what you like and can afford.

4. SRAM is good stuff, I'd even consider going with Rival for the shifters (very similar to Force now with the carbon lever blades) and using the money you saved in other places.
 

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I've been using Stans 355 rims here in the northeast since the snow melted. My wheelset built up at 1700g (exactly) with valves and tape using 6700 hubs and DT revolution spokes. I'm not sure if thats on par, heavy, or lighter than what most people run. I personally can't comment on the viability of tubeless in racing, because I don't compete in CX. I can say that I use my cross bike on what most road/cx riders would consider downright proper mountain bike trails though. I run pressure low enough to hit rim a half dozen times a ride, and haven't had a burp or failure yet despite being a hard cornerer. As you know from mountain biking on Stans rims, they hold a bead exceptionally better than other set ups, so I'm curious if the people who dismiss tubeless were riding on these. For my purposes I've been pretty stoked with the set up though.
 

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CX Noob said:
I've been using Stans 355 rims here in the northeast since the snow melted. My wheelset built up at 1700g (exactly) with valves and tape using 6700 hubs and DT revolution spokes. I'm not sure if thats on par, heavy, or lighter than what most people run. I personally can't comment on the viability of tubeless in racing, because I don't compete in CX. I can say that I use my cross bike on what most road/cx riders would consider downright proper mountain bike trails though. I run pressure low enough to hit rim a half dozen times a ride, and haven't had a burp or failure yet despite being a hard cornerer. As you know from mountain biking on Stans rims, they hold a bead exceptionally better than other set ups, so I'm curious if the people who dismiss tubeless were riding on these. For my purposes I've been pretty stoked with the set up though.

Put 28psi into your tires then go try and do a re-mount on an off camber hill. Or jam the bike into a hard 180 degree corner with lots of traction. CX racing incorporates things that a MTB never sees. I race MTB's and run Stan's tubeless on all four of my MTB's...even my Freeride bike. Can't be used reliably in a CX race.
 

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You know, i would say get the 34-50 compact crank first, since you can allways buy a 44 or 46 ring later if you race CX. I got a traditional 34-50 crank on mine becausee i use it as a daylight commuter with a bolt on seatpost rear rack which really works well.

I had rival on my cx before i switched it to my road bike (Liked is so much) and put the 9 speed shimano on the cross bike (Like it just a fraction less than the rival). Does your frame have cable stop barrel adjusters built into it? Or will you have to add in-line adjusters into the cable run to adjust your brakes/shifters. This really isnt a worry if you run inline brake levers as they will take care of the brakes, but for the front der you will absolutly need one of these because getting a frt der set up without one is really really hard.

Gear changy stuff, rival will work fantastic, no need to drop extra coin on force. Save the money and get a set of tubulars. BTW i just picked up a set of tubular rims off of ebay, great older 600 ultegra hubs, brand new rims, never glued for 9.99. They are perfect and true and waiting for some nice tubulars. Heck shipping cost me 25.00 so for 35.00 i have the wheels, just need the tires.


BTW here is a pic of my cross rig hooked up for daylight commuting (about 18 miles a day) It has all the refinements i have learned about setting up cross bikes and working, selling, and racing them for the past 11 years




Hope this helps Bill
 

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OnTheRivet said:
Put 28psi into your tires then go try and do a re-mount on an off camber hill. Or jam the bike into a hard 180 degree corner with lots of traction. CX racing incorporates things that a MTB never sees. I race MTB's and run Stan's tubeless on all four of my MTB's...even my Freeride bike. Can't be used reliably in a CX race.
Hence my disclaimer for not knowing their validity in racing. Good to know :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the advice. Does the compact crank just have a smaller bolt circle? What else is different? If I got a standard w/53/39 would I be able to switch out chainrings for CX?
I will def. check out the Sram Rival stuff
Any word if the news Stans 340 wheelset will work any better?
thanks again
 

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Yes the compact crankset does have a smaller bolt circle. So you can get cross rings very easily for it. A standard 130mm bolt hole crank is a no go for cross gearing .

As for stans, i got nothing for you. LOL LOL LOL

Bill
 

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crossracer said:
Yes the compact crankset does have a smaller bolt circle. So you can get cross rings very easily for it. A standard 130mm bolt hole crank is a no go for cross gearing .
What? Tell that to the thousands of people who have been running standard cross gearing on a 130mm crank for the last 50 years.
 

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Alot of riders now are using a smaller inner gear than was aviable years ago for those 130 bolt hole cranks. Thats all im saying, the compact cranks smaller bolt pattern gives way more choices in gearing than a 130mm

Bill
 

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markgoldsmith said:
Thanks for all the advice. Does the compact crank just have a smaller bolt circle? What else is different? If I got a standard w/53/39 would I be able to switch out chainrings for CX?
Compact cranks have a 110mm bolt pattern instead of a 130mm bolt pattern. The 130mm pattern limits you to a 38T small ring. The 110mm (compact) allows a smaller ring. Other than that there's no "real" difference.

I run tubeless using Hutchinson tires. Where I live goat head thorns are bad in the fall and flats are way too common for tubed tires on long rides. I've had good luck with the setup, although the Hutchinsons don't have the best traction on set side hills and roots.
 

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Most cross specific cranksets come gear'd like 36/46 and compact 110 BCD.

If your going to race, I would get a cross geared compact crank, then buy 50t big ring and a second chain. That would cover you for corss racing and road riding.
 

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1. So you "love" Stan's, then stick with Stan's.
2. Your 46/34 wouldn't make you a "tool", but would get you dropped when riding with roadies. It's hard to say what gearing you should go with because I don't know how strong you are. If you plan to ride your CX bike as a road bike too, then maybe go with a compact BCD 110 crank, and have two sets of chain rings - one for CX racing, one for road training. I think the options for 110 are bit limited in some respects (no Q rings), but you live in the mountains, so it makes sense.
3. Pick-up or order the CX Magazine w/ the brake reviews - maybe issue 6. Contained inside is all you will ever need to know about cantilever brakes.
4. You say you "dont have any extra bars of gold" yet you mention Force. Why not go with Rival, and take the extra $$$ you saved and spend it on what's really important, brakes, wheels and tires? Rival cranks are not BB30 though, so maybe get an FSA or Force crank.

Sounds like you have killer build in mind, remember to post pics on this forum when complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the UPS man dropped off my new Cannondale frame. It's one sweet piece. Seems like my best bet is a compact 110 Crank. Trying to pick up the rest of the build on the cheap so I'll see how it goes. Thanks again for the advice, I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future
mark
 
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