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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Measured chain stretch and it's between .5 and .75 so I'm getting ready to order parts and tools to replace the chain on my Domane 5.2 which has an Ultegra crank and 105 cassette from the factory. This is the first time for me changing a bicycle chain. Can't tell what chain it has on it, says KO on the side plates alternating with Shimano. Is the 6701 Shimano compatible and a good replacement choice? Do Shimano chains come with the chain pins and if so should it or reuse the master link?

Figured I would get a Park Tool MLP-1 master link pliers (the chain on it now has a master link). Also a Park Tool CT-5 chain breaker so I can throw it in my saddle bag when done with some spare pins or master links.
 

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Measured chain stretch and it's between .5 and .75 so I'm getting ready to order parts and tools to replace the chain on my Domane 5.2 which has an Ultegra crank and 105 cassette from the factory. This is the first time for me changing a bicycle chain. Can't tell what chain it has on it, says KO on the side plates alternating with Shimano. Is the 6701 Shimano compatible and a good replacement choice? Do Shimano chains come with the chain pins and if so should it or reuse the master link?

Figured I would get a Park Tool MLP-1 master link pliers (the chain on it now has a master link). Also a Park Tool CT-5 chain breaker so I can throw it in my saddle bag when done with some spare pins or master links.
First point is how did you measure your chain? Those numbers look like something you got from one of those notoriously innacurate chain checker tools. Pull out any decent ruler and measure 24 links, pin to pin. If the distance is greater than 12 & 1/16" then it's time to replace. Otherwise you are just another rider who was misled by a chain checker.

Chains are fairly interchangable so all you need to do is get a chain matched to the number of cogs on your cassette. Top line chains are generall only a tiny bit lighter so there's no need to go with anything "higher" than your current component group.

There are a number of good chain tools on the market and Park is one of them. Whether you want ot use a quck-link is up to you. Some people love to take their chain off and clean it frequently while others only remove a chain when it is worn out. There is no evidence that either approach is better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, checked with a Park Tool CC-2. I tried the ruler (12 inch shop rule) and it looks like its a half pin stretched (passed the end of the ruler) which I'm guessing is a 1/16th. Will have to check tomorrow with better light and my reading glasses to be sure, maybe with a tape measure for better read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tip on measuring pin to pin length instead of going by the tool measurement. I measured a couple spots on the chain this morning and it's pretty much right at 12 inches which is surprising since it has just over 2000 miles on it. I have kept it lubed and clean though and for the most part no wet weather rides, so maybe the mileage vs stretch is normal. Appears I can wait a while on the chain now, which is nice!
 

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Thanks for the tip on measuring pin to pin length instead of going by the tool measurement. I measured a couple spots on the chain this morning and it's pretty much right at 12 inches which is surprising since it has just over 2000 miles on it. I have kept it lubed and clean though and for the most part no wet weather rides, so maybe the mileage vs stretch is normal. Appears I can wait a while on the chain now, which is nice!
That's not surprising. I have maybe 5-6000 miles on mine and I don't measure any wear. Try measuring pin edge to pin edge for more accuracy than c-c.
 
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