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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I recently bought an 08 Langster. The chainline seems to be a touch off, in that the cog is further to the left than the chainring. I haven't done any measuring (can't find a ruler!), but it looks like moving the chainring inside the spider would put it too far inside, thus throwing things out of whack in the other direction.
So can I just buy a spacer kit for converting an 8-9 speed into single, and just use a spacer to line things up a little better?
I did some searching, but didn't run into anything specifically like this. If it matters, I only run the fixed side. It hasn't seen freewheel, and probably won't unless I ride up a very large hill and have to go back down it. Thanks for any help, and please excuse the n00b-ness.
 

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No, the cog/hub interface is different. A geared bike's hub has splines that allow spacers/SS cog to slide on while a track cog threads on. Search for images of track hubs and you'll get the idea.

Until you can measure how much it's off I'd wait on changing anything, you might end up making it worse. If it doesn't want to skip off the cog now you're probably fine with the stock setup unless someone installed the bottom bracket wrong or cog on backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, it doesn't seem bad, but it's not perfect. I'll get back with some measurements tomorrow hopefully. The cog is on right for sure (shoulder to the inside), and I'm assuming the bb is good to go, since I know all the mechanics I work with are more than competant. So no threaded spacers or anything like that are available, huh...
I guess with a difference of like 2 mm, there wouldn't be much to thread though.
 

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I don't think 2mm is much to worry about. There are spacers but nothing specifically for track hubs, one of the other posters might have a better idea where to look for those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right on...I'll probably just not worry about it, but I want to measure it just in case. I think I read someplace that the 07 Langsters were off by something like 4mm. Maybe that was just one guy though, I don't really remember.
 

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It's the Sugino RD2 crank BB combo, that is off, about the chainline on your Langster (I have one too). The RD2s have a 45mm chainline, with Sugino's recommended 103mm BB, with the chainring mounted on the outside of the cranks. Most hubs support a 42mm chainline.

I haven't tried it yet, but I'm unsure if theres enough clearance between the cranks and the chainstay, on my Lanster, to be able to mount the chainring on the inside. If anybody can refute this fact, I would love to get such confirmation. But from what I understand, mounting it on the inside, will give give a 41mm chainline, or a little bit off in the opposite direction. Seemingly meaning that the to get a 42mm chainline, will require a slightly wider BB, 103mm+, so a 105mm BB (please somebody correct this figure if it is wrong) with the chainring mounted on the inside will yield the desired 42mm chainline. I haven't, yet, tried this. But would like to know if this would actually work.

My noisy chain annoys me at the best of times. Never mind that whenever I put on a new chain its noisy as hell, and pedaling is noticeably knotchy, until the chain breaks in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for that, wil. That sounds about like the stuff I've been reading. I'll measure it up and see if it's right. I guess I'd rather have it off by 1mm than 3mm if it will quiet things down a little bit.
 

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Not sure what chain comes with the Langster, but maybe a wider one will give it some more wiggle room? I wouldn't shoot the spacer idea you had down so soon. Forget the interface, if it slides on, it slides on. I have a feeling those MIGHT be too small to slide one over the threads though. But if you buy it from Performnce, you can return it no questions asked . . .

There's also this ******* idea I had regarding a slice of pvc pipe as a spacer . . .
 

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JakeE said:
If it matters, I only run the fixed side. It hasn't seen freewheel, and probably won't unless I ride up a very large hill and have to go back down it.
Chances are, the freewheel side will give you a better chainline as most freewheel cogs have wider shoulders compared to a track cog and tends to bring the chain line out a bit further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll be in the shop where I work this weekend, so I can get an exact measurement. I did end up putting the chainring inside the spider, and it seems to be a little quieter, especially when using my legs as brakes.
I've heard the Langster chains suck, but I don't know what makes a better or worse chain when it comes to bicycle chains really. Plus, it's white. I can't get rid of that. :) Haha

For those familiar with benscycle.net, it's pretty near my hometown, where I'll be moving to in about a week. I'll probably end up stopping in there to see what they can do for me. It seems like they stock a lot of fixed gear parts.
 

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I forget what chains come on the Langster, stock. But I too, have a white chain on my Langster: The KMC 1/8th one.

I've heard that if you use the more expensive, better (?), chains they make MORE noise than the cheaper ones. I suspect it may be because they are built stronger, and therefore aren't as receptive to not 100% straight chainlines.

Glad to hear that moving the chain to the inside of the spider helped, a little bit, in terms of drivetrain noise. How much clearance was there between chainring and chainstay? I haven't done it, but it looks like it would be pretty close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
wil said:
I forget what chains come on the Langster, stock. But I too, have a white chain on my Langster: The KMC 1/8th one.

I've heard that if you use the more expensive, better (?), chains they make MORE noise than the cheaper ones. I suspect it may be because they are built stronger, and therefore aren't as receptive to not 100% straight chainlines.

Glad to hear that moving the chain to the inside of the spider helped, a little bit, in terms of drivetrain noise. How much clearance was there between chainring and chainstay? I haven't done it, but it looks like it would be pretty close.
Right on. The clearance from ring to stay is pretty tight, but it doesn't rub, so it's not a problem as far as I know. And I'm pretty happy with the Langster for now. I think I need to actually get some decent miles on it (though I'm not keeping track) before I spend more money on it.
 

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A couple of observations. A bb spacer is the same diameter as track cog/freewheel threads. You "could" try a 1mm spacer behind the cog provided the hub has sufficient threads to support the cog and lockring.

Most of the "factory fixies" I've seen come with the bottom end KMC 1/8" chain. The colored ones are the same as the least expensive black one. One of our mechanics has the Masi Speciale Fixed and despite the chainline looking perfect, it was noisy. I'm running the KMC stainless with less than a perfect chainline (107mm bb with the Sugino RD crank which calls for a 103mm) and it is as quiet as death.

We put that chain on the Masi and, lo and behold, silence.

Also, replacing the cheap cog on my other fixie with a DuraAce sure quieted that thing dowm.
 
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