**a minor difference...**

To answer the question about which angle and stem setup is "better", the higher rise stem would produce a more rigid setup, but most find that much angle not very pretty. Lots of spacer isn't real pretty either, but it wouldn't be wise to use a flipped stem and little or no spacer (with the steering tube cut down), then decide later you don't like it.

One minor error that's inevitable with these calculations if that it's a simplified model, where the stem is modeled as a line that intersects the center of the steering clamp. In the case of the flipped stem, you have a 25 degree angle from the horizontal (98-73). With the 100mm length as the hypotenuse, the height is 42.3mm and the horizontal length is 90.6mm. When the stem is flipped down, the angle is 9 degrees from the horizontal (82-73). The height is 15.6mm and the horizontal length is 98.8mm. That makes the height difference a theoretical 26.7mm. In reality, the height difference is quite likely to be a few millimeters less because the centerline of the stem extension does not usually intersect the exact center of the steering tube clamp. It varies with the brand.

Notice how using this "convention" (let's not call it a standard) of specifying the stem angle as 82/98 makes it simple to figure the stem angle from the horizontal, just by subtracting the HTA? The other stem angle "convention" calls this stem a plus or minus 8 degree. It's certainly more confusing to start with 90 degrees, subtract 73, then add or subtract 8 to come up with two angles of 25 and 9. Perhaps if HTAs were specified as 17 from vertical, then the convention would be more sensible.

Tilting the bars up will help reduce the reach by bringing the brake hood up and closer to the saddle. Usually, there is not much room for adjustment, without fouling up the angle in the drop section of the bars. I always adjust the angle of the drops first, then adjust the brake hood position to a comfortable level.