The BB probably doesn't need to be faced but chasing is almost certainly necessary. The head tube should be fine as it contains separately bonded in alloy cups. If they are messed up I don't think there's much room for correction.
On my frame definitely the hardest thing to deal with was the clear coat over-spray in the drop out axle seat area. It was laid on very thick and rock hard. I couldn't even get a wheel in there. It took quite some time and finesse with a Dremel tool using various sanding bits to completely remove. I also had to rework those areas in order for the rear wheel to align properly.
Purely by coincidence while cutting the BB threads I found a trick to easily remove the rest of the clear coat on the dropout faces and BB face afterward. Apparently it releases quite willingly once the loose edges have been soaked in (cutting) oil for a few minutes. It will peel off from the blank metal areas without much hassle using a thin blade exacto type of knife to lift under it. Take it slow however as you want the clear coat to release almost by itself right along black lacquer border and not take anything with it. I also had to chase the derailleur hanger threads and Dremel some paint off from the back of the derailleur hanger in order for the derailleur spring detent to mount over it and rotate freely.
Finally the fork, again on my frameset I had to seat the race myself. After measurement with a digital caliper I found the inference fit was a little too tight. I had to sand some of the area down before I could safely seat the race using a Park race setter tool and suitable adapter. The front drop outs weren't 100% in the same plane either. I had to remove a tiny amount of material from the left side with a Dremel grinding bit for proper wheel alignment. Mind you the amount of material to be removed is minute, but it only takes very small amount of skewing at the axle for it to make a big difference at the rim level.
BTW, in case your distributor of your frame didn't include a BB cable guide, I've found the plastic Campy one to work well but you'll need the longer bolt from the two hole Shimano guide to mount it properly. Also, use a short piece of Nokon inner teflon cable lining to guide the front derailleur cable through the frame. Otherwise it will be just bare cable against carbon contact. Not sure how long it would take but over time it's likely to cut a serious groove in your BB shell and the chainstay hole it goes through.
BTW2, anyone else reading the above shouldn't be scared off by Fondriest. It's pretty standard type of stuff that goes hand in hand with many Italian frames....sometimes you do get lucky and there's less work required. If you'd rather stick to a no hassle hang your stuff on type of building better stay with main stream American brands. Their stuff is mostly prepped to perfection before it leaves the factory.
....that was about it and considering that I don't like wrenching on bikes this wasn't fun for me but I'm the only one who I trust to do the job right on my own equipment
(see pics below showing some of the affected areas)