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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently picked up a Miyata 916 that needs a new fork. What forks are available that would be comparable, or better then the original fork?

Can I buy a 1" threadless fork, and just have it cut, and threaded?
 

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man bro, do what you can to find a compatible fork. what size is the frame? i went through a real deal to try and get a fork threaded. it aint worth the hassle. every one i called and talked to say they dont do it, only chase or clean up existing threads. they say you have to go to a frame builder to get it done. i have a couple of forks but no miyata. you just to search around. go to a bike shop that has been around for a while and see if they have something that will work and get it painted to match perhaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
carbonite said:
man bro, do what you can to find a compatible fork. what size is the frame? i went through a real deal to try and get a fork threaded. it aint worth the hassle. every one i called and talked to say they dont do it, only chase or clean up existing threads. they say you have to go to a frame builder to get it done. i have a couple of forks but no miyata. you just to search around. go to a bike shop that has been around for a while and see if they have something that will work and get it painted to match perhaps.
Thanks for your response. I would guestimate it to be about a 58cm. I would measure it, but it is miles away at the moment. I will measure the steerer tube, next time I am at my storage unit.

It doesnt have to be a Miyata fork per say, I just dont want to put a peice of crap for on it. Hopeing for something that has Ishiwata, columbus, or reynolds tubing. The paint on this bike is in pretty bad shape, so I think I am going to have the frame, and whatever fork I get painted together. Is there any aftermarket forks that you know of that are decent? Here is an idea...I could go carbon fiber.
 

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threading ain't always easy and the tubing walls gotta be thick enough... best be is to look for used, lbs, the usual online places, maybe that dude in hungary
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
FatTireFred said:
threading ain't always easy and the tubing walls gotta be thick enough... best be is to look for used, lbs, the usual online places, maybe that dude in hungary
I will keep looking for used. I am looking at new ones to though. I could get 1 inch threadless stem, the thompson 1 inch to 1 1/8th adapter, then a 1 1/8th stem too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update, going carbon.

Ok, so I have had no luck finding a steel fork that I like for this bike, so I am going to go carbon.

Here is what I know so far. Measuring form the bottom of the bearing surface at the crown to the top of the steer tube is 7 3/8th". Which using google says is 187.325mm. I have no idea what the rake is supposed to be though, since the old fork is bent back a lot. Here is a link to the miyata catalog, which mentions off set. Is that the same as fork rake?

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwlQ/R2CnzTQprvI/AAAAAAAAAnc/3CBst28ECSE/s1600-h/img307.jpg

So if it will work, I have narrowed it down to a threaded 1", with 200mm steer tube, and 43 degree rake (additional 15% off today) at Nashbar, or a Kinesis from ebay that is has a 300mm steer tube, and is not threaded, and 43 degree rake. I like the looks of the kinesis better, but it is not threaded, and I would have to get a different stem, and a 1 to 1 1/8th spacer, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What happens if I increase, or decrease the rake. I know it will affect the handling, but if you have a higher number does that make it more twitchy, or always wanting to turn?
 

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Miyata Rake / Offset 916, 914, 912

What happens if I increase, or decrease the rake. I know it will affect the handling, but if you have a higher number does that make it more twitchy, or always wanting to turn?
Miyata considers Rake and Offset to be the same. Increasing / decreasing rake should increase / decrease your wheelbase correspondingly. A longer wheelbase provides greater stability, a shorter wheelbase increases maneuvering / quick turning ability.

Vintage race bike wheelbases were typically at or under 990 mm (39 inches). Racers in groups (pelotons) will generally want quick maneuvering ability (shorter wheelbases). A longer wheelbase may be better suited to open road events such as a triathlon. [Sheldon Brown, Bicycling July 1985] https://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/pdfs/bstone6001985.pdf

In addition to changing the wheelbase, a curved fork rake is thought to add a level of shock absorption; thus a larger rake could add both stability and comfort


Miyata 916FrameOffset/RakeWheelbase
(Year not specified)50,5250975
(my guess 1993)54,56,5835975
6035985
6335995

<tbody>
</tbody>
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_whtVpXkKwlQ/R2CnzTQprvI/AAAAAAAAAnc/3CBst28ECSE/s1600-h/img307.jpg ;

Miyata 914FrameOffset/RakeWheelbase
(Also Team frame)4855980
198952, 54 . .50990
(50 & 60 omitted56, 5845995
for simplicity)63401000

<tbody>
</tbody>
https://www.miyatacatalogs.com/2007/12/miyata-catalog-1989.html

Miyata 912 . .Frame . .Offset/RakeWheelbase
198450999
541005
571010
60, 631025

<tbody>
</tbody>
Miyata Bicycle Catalogs: Miyata Catalog 1984

Lastly, with respect to forks, Nashbar offers a 1 inch threaded Carbon fork. Whatever replacement fork you buy, make sure the crown race spec matches that of your headset (eg. 26.4 mm or 27 mm).
( Nashbar Carbon 1-in Threaded Road Fork - Road Bike Forks)


(I know it's a old post, but my answer is meant to assist future internet queries)
 
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