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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I was sized by my lbs who mesured me to be a 54cm. I havnt had time to go in and have it fitted and tried to set it up as youtube videos demonstrate however to allow my knee to be at the 80-90 deg angle without locking out my saddle must but brought down to only 4-5 inches above the tube. does this mean the frame is simply too large? i dont feel streatched up top at all but the bike just looks funny now witht he saddle so low.
 

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No, it could, but it could also mean you have short legs for someone of your height. Or to say the same thing another way....long torso for your height.

4-5 inches isn't 'that' low.
 

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also depends, is the a std. geometry or compact? i have a few biked, on the compact frame, there is a lot of seatpost showing, on my std. frame, its much less... the lbs should know what they're doing... if you aren't sure, go back and check with them..
 

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Nobody "is" a certain frame size any more. Brand A's 54 cm could be brand B's 52 cm and brand C's 56 cm. And the "allow my knee to be at the 80-90 deg angle without locking out my saddle" makes no sense at all. Primary knee angle in a fitting is taken at bottom dead center and should be around 35 degrees (or its complement 145 degrees).

If you post year, make and model of the bike you were fitted on / for, as well as a clarification of the knee angle thing, it would be easier to respond with good information.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the replies.. I should have posted a picture from the beginning...

Below are 3 pictures of the way the bike looks with what MY newbie mesurments and with the only pic I was able to capture with the camera timer being used before I slipped and fell waking up my girlfriend hahaha.. damn bike shoe....

I was fitted on a 2009 54cm cannondale six and purchased a 2011 54cm supersix (105, compact) as 54cm was determined my size. we spent almost 2 hours with all the crazy measurements and adjustments to the bike. The gentlemen who performed all the sizing work was back and forth weather 54cm or 53 was my size but since cannondale doesn't make a 53 I said I would be more comfotable getting the 54 since it would have better resale value should this sport not be my thing...I was supposed to return for a full ($200 fitting) but ran out of cash. I walked in expecting to get one of these fancy cervelo's I see everyday and all high end gear for $800-1k. HA!! was I wrong.. So $3k later on my Mcdonalds like paychecks I've exhausted what I have to spend at this time so I will be forced to fit this bike myself. I own a torque wrench and have been playing with many stem settings as well. Im just worried that this fram my be to large for me as the seat looks so hipster fixed speed low.. insight appreciated..
pic 1 - bike
pic 2 - stand over
pic 3 - best pic i could get running with a road shoe to bike, didnt even clip in
 

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Looks ok to me. You look fine on the bike. Standover height is an irrelevant measurement. The important one is the length of the top tube. You don't look too stretched out. Looks a lot like my new BMC.

It's more of a classic type fit than the "too small of a frame with very long stem" fit that the pros use these days. They use that fit in order to get a more aerodynamic position.
 

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I think most people are going to say that the seat is too low for you and you could put it up quite a bit more. That, coupled with the fact that the top tube does not slope down much, if any, you won't have as much seat post showing as most people because most frames these days are compact frames with sloping top tubes.

FWIW, I only have about 8" from top of top tube to the top of my seat on my "traditional" non-sloping frame. This is after a professional fit and I'm longer in the legs than torso (so they say).

And hey, sweet bike you have there!
 

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JoelS said:
Looks ok to me. You look fine on the bike. Standover height is an irrelevant measurement. The important one is the length of the top tube. You don't look too stretched out. Looks a lot like my new BMC.

It's more of a classic type fit than the "too small of a frame with very long stem" fit that the pros use these days. They use that fit in order to get a more aerodynamic position.
Agree 100% here. Keep in mind that many recreational riders with a lot more seatpost showing also have a lot more spacers showing under an upjutting stem, which, IMO, really looks goofy. Also remember that looks does not beget speed.

If you're going to post another photo, post one with you sitting on the saddle and your right foot cleated in, but with the right crank exactly in line with the seat tube. That will tell a viewer if your saddle is a bit high or low.
 

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Based on your knee angle, the seat looks to low. However, your heal is way up and the crank isn't down so it's tough to say what your knee angle would be when you actually pedal. In other words we can't tell anything about seat height from the picture. To see if you are in the ballpark you could set the crank along the same angle as your seat post (where it is in the first two pictures) then sit on the bike and exetend your leg so your HEAL goes to the pedal and it should be lightly brushing it. I'm not suggesting you 'set' your saddle that way but it's a good way to see if you're close or way off.

You're upper body looks about perfect to me. Pictures can lie but still, no concerns there that I can pick out.
 

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It looks ok to me. On a traditional frame (non-sloping top tube), you should only have a handful of seatpost showing. The important aspects of fit are (1) your saddle position relative to the bottom bracket (saddle setback), which allows your legs to be most efficient; and (2) is reach from saddle to handlebar.

Many folks get bikes too small and have lots of seatpost showing (to get the pro look). But, they usually have to raise their handlebars and without a headtube extension, they use lots of spacers 40mm or more and upward sloping stems. The pros have very big differentials between their saddle and stem height, but they are young and more flexible than most non-pros. If you notice, though, many pros have their levers high on the handlebar to ride on hoods and get a more upright position (kind of counter to their position).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
few updated pictures

Thank you all so so so much for your suggestions, without I would be in the complete dark. I've attached a few shots with leg at the bottom of the rotation as well as the top. When peddling backwords, as i dont have a trainer, I dont believe i feel my hips rocking at this saddle height. I also flipped the stem from up to down to accomodate the drop of saddle height. The bars feel much more comfortable at this setting. Also I read that when your bar is atop a set of spacers and you lower the bar to put the spacers ontop of the bar but to always have at least one spacer seperating the stem from the headset. I dont know if this is true as i've seen many pictures oh roadbikes with no spacers and the stem directly atop the headset, any insight on this?

Thanks!!!

-James
 

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What's your height?

Inseam?

you're about 175cm with and 82-83inseam?

Looks pretty good to me btw.


If you don't mind my asking, what hooked you on the bike purchase? That's a very nice one you have there also.
 

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Fit looks fine. When you ride try not to lock your elbow. slightly bent and relax will absorb road shock and make for a more comfortable ride over the long haul.
 

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shaving the legs already, eh?
the fit looks good on you. one thing you can try(unless you have already) is to rotate the handlebars so that the flats on top are level with the ground. you might find that more comfortable.
 

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shutupkid said:
Also I read that when your bar is atop a set of spacers and you lower the bar to put the spacers ontop of the bar but to always have at least one spacer seperating the stem from the headset. I dont know if this is true as i've seen many pictures oh roadbikes with no spacers and the stem directly atop the headset, any insight on this?
Fit has nothing to do with that. The idea is that mechanical stress on the fork steerer tube is relatively high at the stem-to-headset junction. By putting a spacer on top of that junction, you distribute that stress over a larger area. As to your new photos: you look good. Change nothing, listen to no one, ride hard and get faster.
 

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I think your seat IS too low. If you can put your heal on the pedal and your leg is completely straight, that is the correct height. From the pictures, it looks low.
 

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Looks fine with you on it.

Chop the excess steerer tube, and if you have another spacer under the stem and like to lean forward more, then toss that, too. That's give it a better appearance when you're not on it, not that that matters much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
blackjack said:
What's your height?

Inseam?

you're about 175cm with and 82-83inseam?

Looks pretty good to me btw.


If you don't mind my asking, what hooked you on the bike purchase? That's a very nice one you have there also.
I wanted to ask what my height measured while being sized but forgot to. I dont even want to guess. as for the other measurments I really have no idea, I was hoping I would get at least a copy of all the data that was collected with the fit kit system..

I chose this particular bike because I was first interested in the 2010 cannondale six after seeing it won bike of the year. Further research especially on the forums I found that the upcomming 2011 supersixes would replace the six and starting at $2k. That pretty much closed the sale for me.

Oh and the reason I grew interest in getting into cycling is that I've been running 6 miles daily and have been dealing with serious shin splints for years due to running on pavement which is very high impact compared to cycling.. Plus Im in south florida and 3 miles from the beach, A1A (ocean blvd) has tons and tons of cyclist, I used to think they were all training for the olympics with their professional looking attire..

raymonda said:
Fit looks fine. When you ride try not to lock your elbow. slightly bent and relax will absorb road shock and make for a more comfortable ride over the long haul.
You're right. I was using my elbow against the wall to hold myself upright which forced me to tense up my right arm I guess..

sonic_W said:
shaving the legs already, eh?
the fit looks good on you. one thing you can try(unless you have already) is to rotate the handlebars so that the flats on top are level with the ground. you might find that more comfortable.
HA! Being an ultra avid runner I've always trimmed but today I did so with no gaurd so try to adjust.. Man the thought of using a razor... wow.. that will take some time to accept Ha ha ha.. When you refer to the flats do you mean the handlebar leading to the hood? I notice mine are angeled up a bit.

wim said:
Fit has nothing to do with that. The idea is that mechanical stress on the fork steerer tube is relatively high at the stem-to-headset junction. By putting a spacer on top of that junction, you distribute that stress over a larger area. As to your new photos: you look good. Change nothing, listen to no one, ride hard and get faster.
Got it! I have yet to even go for a ride yet. tomorrow i plan to buy a pump (tires leaked some air I suspect over the past week) and a helmet. If the handlebar height is comfortable I would like to get the top of the fork tube cut. Do they make a thinner spacer to seperate the stem from the headset? the ones on my bike look horribile and generic. I look forword to riding daily, and especially to become faster!

wooglin said:
Looks good to me as well. I've got about the same amount of seatpost showing myself. Standard geometry will do that. I would also level the bars as per sonic W above.
Thanks for the confirmation on both the saddle height and the handlebar angle. Is the angle of the bar mostly for grip comfort? I only ask as I tried angeling the bars several times and felt like my upper torso was why i chose this setting. Maybe It's because the bar comes slightly closer in that setting when atop the hoods?...

Thanks!!
-James
 
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