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What is that part called and are there any good online stores to pick one up?

I currently have the similar part mounted to my steerer tube under the stem, but I noticed that my Redline fork has a hole at the top of the fork. I am assuming that this is for one of those parts and would provide me with a better brake cable routing option. Plus, it should help to eliminate residual brake chatter.

Please chime in if you can help me answer my question.
 

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mdutcher said:
What is that part called and are there any good online stores to pick one up?

I currently have the similar part mounted to my steerer tube under the stem, but I noticed that my Redline fork has a hole at the top of the fork. I am assuming that this is for one of those parts and would provide me with a better brake cable routing option. Plus, it should help to eliminate residual brake chatter.

Please chime in if you can help me answer my question.
if you have low profile cantilevers and want better cable routing, go for it. if you have high profile cantilevers, you are most likely better off with the hanger higher up.

either way it's not going to help with the chatter.
 

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I agree with weather. If you have brakes like Paul's, Spooky's or Empella's, you will want the straddle cable to pull as high as possible. This won't help you out. It would probably be OK for Avid Shortys where the straddle wire isn't a factor. It also don't see how it will cut down of fork chatter.
 

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weather said:
if you have low profile cantilevers and want better cable routing, go for it. if you have high profile cantilevers, you are most likely better off with the hanger higher up.

either way it's not going to help with the chatter.
Disagree completely....running this with a pair of Kore high profiles and it works fantastic. Still plenty of room to get the straddle carrier up high...with the carrier 1.5 cm's above the bottom of the fork crown i get that sweet spot between modulation/power and ZERO CHATTER. The Tektro cable stop allows the correct cable length...and there's room to spare. I don't get how it works, but I had some MAJOR fork chatter that nothing would fix--every brake I tried, every combination of toe-in / straddle wire length. The cable stop fixed it. + it's a $5 fix.
 

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turbomatic73 said:
Disagree completely....running this with a pair of Kore high profiles and it works fantastic. Still plenty of room to get the straddle carrier up high...with the carrier 1.5 cm's above the bottom of the fork crown i get that sweet spot between modulation/power and ZERO CHATTER. The Tektro cable stop allows the correct cable length...and there's room to spare. I don't get how it works, but I had some MAJOR fork chatter that nothing would fix--every brake I tried, every combination of toe-in / straddle wire length. The cable stop fixed it. + it's a $5 fix.
+1

added a fork mount hanger helped on my specialized.

the specialized version seems better than the tektro due to the adjustment knob plus the L-shaped mechanism that prevents the hanger from getting twisted down to either side (if it fits your fork)

-marc
 

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turbomatic73 said:
Disagree completely....running this with a pair of Kore high profiles and it works fantastic. Still plenty of room to get the straddle carrier up high...with the carrier 1.5 cm's above the bottom of the fork crown i get that sweet spot between modulation/power and ZERO CHATTER. The Tektro cable stop allows the correct cable length...and there's room to spare. I don't get how it works, but I had some MAJOR fork chatter that nothing would fix--every brake I tried, every combination of toe-in / straddle wire length. The cable stop fixed it. + it's a $5 fix.
It likely stopped your fork chatter because you decreased the braking power so significantly they don't grab anymore. Not the way to eliminate it in my opinion.
 

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spookyload said:
It likely stopped your fork chatter because you decreased the braking power so significantly they don't grab anymore. Not the way to eliminate it in my opinion.
Love it when people discount a solution as not being feasible simply because they've never tried before. I may be in a better position than you to quantify the performance of my brake setup.
 

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turbomatic73 said:
Love it when people discount a solution as not being feasible simply because they've never tried before. I may be in a better position than you to quantify the performance of my brake setup.
My point was all you did was decrease braking power to fix the problem. When conditions are bad, I want brakes. Furthermore, most bikes don't have fork chatter when they are actually ridden off road in mud, dirt, snow and sand. The material on the rims prevents the pads from grabbing quite as hard so they don't chatter. So you fix the problem for road riding in good weather by taking away breaking power and modulation you are going to want when the conditions get bad.
 

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spookyload said:
My point was all you did was decrease braking power to fix the problem. When conditions are bad, I want brakes. Furthermore, most bikes don't have fork chatter when they are actually ridden off road in mud, dirt, snow and sand. The material on the rims prevents the pads from grabbing quite as hard so they don't chatter. So you fix the problem for road riding in good weather by taking away breaking power and modulation you are going to want when the conditions get bad.
And you've tested my bike to assess the amount of power the brakes generate...thanks.

Trust me...my brakes have more power now than they've ever had. The fact that companies like Specialized and Tektro are even making these bits is evidence that there's a market need for them, and that at least for some, they WORK. Noticed that some of the 'cross stuff at Interbike includes similar gadgets as standard equipment on new bikes.
 

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CXM has an extensive article a few issues back on canti set up and the following issue on reducing chatter. The fork mounted stop was one of their prescriptions. I've heard others have good success with this method.
 

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I also have good power with the specialized (or tektro) mount

specialized tricross
9 year old empella brakes (classic wide style) with swiss-stop green pads.

marc
 

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mtbbmet said:
Then you don't clearly understand what causes fork chatter in the first place. This is the most effective solution to increasing your braking power and eliminating/reducing chatter. Do some research on it.
Here, I'll do it for you.
http://velonews.competitor.com/2010...l-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807
just because someone wrote it in the column doesn't make it science. it's zinn, i know, but he's only theorizing without giving concrete numbers or estimates. (oh, he's completely wrong on the MTB with suspension forks and canti brakes, btw. the brake hanger is on the fork arch because the lower leg moves inches relative to the steering tube when the suspension is at work. it's not there to reduce chatter.)

how much of a cable pull do you think your fork is giving you with the hanger up high and full brake force is applied? have you ever tried to flex a pair of forks with one end clamped to a vice? you are talking about the change in length of the cable, a few cm away parallel to the headtube, when a section of 1.125" diameter steel/al/carbon fiber steering tube plus the fork crown is flexed front-back. and this happens only over the length between the brake stud and where you clamp the cable hanger, AND the tube is secured at two points called headset cups.

don't trust me? fine. grab an engineering friend and ask him to run a model or measure it. i can do it on solidworks when i get the time too.

seriously, if you think that crown mounted hangar solved your problem, you probably want to run longer cable routing with longer housing and see how that helps.
 

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fork mount hanger for Redline

Anyone know if the specialized gizmo will work on a Redline aluminum fork with the pre-drilled hole? The reason I ask is that I like the idea of the cable adjuster. Otherwise, I'll just get the Tektro and, I suppose, try to get a cable adjuster fitted in there somehow.
 

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OK, for a start, I'll take Zinn's word for it over some random guy on the internets. 2nd, I've been a mechanic in a shop for a decade, and now work at a shop that specializes in cross. I know what works, and what doesn't. 3rdly, go to interbike and see how many 2011 cross bikes are coming with hangers on the fork. They are not there just for show. It works.
But I guess you know more than me, Zinn, and the industry.
 

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mtbbmet said:
OK, for a start, I'll take Zinn's word for it over some random guy on the internets. 2nd, I've been a mechanic in a shop for a decade, and now work at a shop that specializes in cross. I know what works, and what doesn't. 3rdly, go to interbike and see how many 2011 cross bikes are coming with hangers on the fork. They are not there just for show. It works.
But I guess you know more than me, Zinn, and the industry.
the fact that you hide behind this "i work at blah blah blah so i must know s**t" is exactly the reason you work in the shop while i actually do the engineering.
 

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turbomatic73 said:
And you've tested my bike to assess the amount of power the brakes generate...thanks.

Trust me...my brakes have more power now than they've ever had. The fact that companies like Specialized and Tektro are even making these bits is evidence that there's a market need for them, and that at least for some, they WORK. Noticed that some of the 'cross stuff at Interbike includes similar gadgets as standard equipment on new bikes.
Awesome for you dude. Fork chatter is a problem of physics. You have overcome the laws of physics with your $5 part. I am happy for you. The only way you could increase braking power and eliminate fork chatter would be if the wheel is locking up...thus no chatter. How about solving this darn cancer problem now. Is there a $50 part for that?
 
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