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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is my first post... I'm fairly new to road biking but a long time mountain biker

I recently purchased a SCOTT Speedsteer S60 (may not make a difference or not) over the internet... after setting up the basics on bike and putting it on the trainer. The front derailer doesn't change spokets very well (came pre-installed). I have tried to make some adjustments my self but still can't get it work/line-up properly.

Has any one else had this happen to them when buying a bike over the internet or a SCOTT bike? is this just fluke and should I leave this type of work the my LBS to go over all the cabliing and dial it in correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks... I tried that last night when I made the adjustments my self. Thats where I may have sc#4%d it up even more.
 

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It's more than likely a set up issue. Did you check that the clearance to the large ring is right (about a dime's worth) and that the deraileur is parallel to the rings? What kind is it? Double, Triple? What is the issue and what adjustments did you make? Does it seem to hesitate, but then shift or what? More info would help, altho the park site should be all you need.

b21
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used a penny to adjust my clearance to large ring, seems ok . When I moved the deaileur parallel to the rings it dosen't move very smoothly, it would sometimes get jammed up (hesitate) moving from the middle ring to the larger, it's a triple ring.

When shifting from larger ring down, it jumps the middle and ends up on the bottom (smaller) ring

I re-adjusted the deraileur alignment so that it's on a slight inward angle (botton half). shifting inproves alittle bit but now the chain rubs on the deraileur side cages depanding on the which ring I'm on. I tried adjusting the screws but that onlty seemed to make things worse. Depanding on the which screw I turn stops me from shifting to other chain rings
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The front Derailleur is a Shimano FD 2203 - F
 

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Sometimes when FDs act erratically like this it's because they're too far foreward and trying to act on a section of chain that's already partly engaged on the chainrings. It's a fairly common problem on bikes with steep seattube angles, and there's not much you can do with a clamped-on FD.

Try rotating the FD slightly beyond parallelso the front is more outboard. This will cause the toe to engage more firmly for shifts up to the larger ring, and the cage to hit farther back for dropping to the smaller ring.

Years ago, skilled mechanics bent FD cages to optimize performance and each had his own personal tweak, but alas, today cages are through hardened and crack before bending.

Also check that your cables run smoothly, a binding cable can move with a stick-and-release action causing problems like yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks FBinNY... I'll try moving the derailleur alittle more forward.

How do I check the cables for running smoothly?
 

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ROAD&DIRT said:
Thanks FBinNY... I'll try moving the derailleur alittle more forward.

How do I check the cables for running smoothly?
NO -- you want to rotate the FD backwards, bringing the back end in somewhat, maybe 1-2mm inboard vs the front.

The cable friction problem can be subtle. The first clue is needing too much force to shift. Also, since you have triple, try this test. Shift to the large ring, then back to the middle. Note the exact position of the cage, then firmly pluck the bare wire away from the frame like a guitar string, and let it go. If the cage has moved inboard slightly it meant the wire was hanging up until you pulled it down, and the cables need to be stripped, cleaned and lubed.

Another test is to shift manually by pressing on the FD actuating arm, and seeing if it works better that way, if so, it's a cable vs FD problem.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks mis-understood about moving the derailleur.

I do have to use some force when shiffting into the large ring, not a lot but a little enough for to notice. I have tried moving the FD with my thumb and seems to move with no forcing pressure.

I will try the guitar string snap test as you mentioned and maybe strip the cables out and oil them up anyway.

I'm starting to think the bike shop I bought the bike from didn't do any pre-building for me before shipping to me...
 

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ROAD&DIRT said:
I'm starting to think the bike shop I bought the bike from didn't do any pre-building for me before shipping to me...
The better shops do lots of added value work when setting up a new bike, the rest don't do much more than assemble and adjust it to "good enough for government work" standards.

When lubing the housings, use only a very light oil or grease, otherwise you'll get viscous drag which will cause sluggish response when shifting in the slack cable direction.

BTW- if cable lube solves this problem, you might give the bike a quick once over looking for other things your dealer missed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks again FBinNY... now only if I didn't have to sit behind this silly desk at work all day, I might be able to really get something accomplished.

This is a great form, I look forward to posting more!
 

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ROAD&DIRT said:
Thanks again FBinNY... now only if I didn't have to sit behind this silly desk at work all day, I might be able to really get something accomplished.

This is a great form, I look forward to posting more!
btw, the limit screws have nothing to do with the smooth movement of the chain from big ring to middle, etc. They set the inner and outer limit of the derailleur movement so as to not push the chain off the inner (to the inside) or outer (to the outside) ring. If you were fooling around with them and set them too tight, it could keep the chain from going from middle to large or middle to small. Once you get this issue fixed, and it sounds like the cable tension, then you want to make sure you haven't messed up the limit settings, the shift should be smooth to each ring, but not overshoot so that the chain can be pushed off either ring. Very important for both derailleurs that the limits are set right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I reset the limit screws lastnight after adjusting the derailleur a bit. I now can shift through all the fornt chain rings. Still a little rough, Think the oil/lubing the cable could fix that.

I also now have noticed after making the FD adjustometns I'm jumping a the second largest cog in the back, it won't stay. When shifting up (to largest cog) the chain hits the gear and jumps to up one (to the largest). But when shifting down it hits the gear and jumps down one more.
 

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ROAD&DIRT said:
I reset the limit screws lastnight after adjusting the derailleur a bit. I now can shift through all the fornt chain rings. Still a little rough, Think the oil/lubing the cable could fix that.

I also now have noticed after making the FD adjustometns I'm jumping a the second largest cog in the back, it won't stay. When shifting up (to largest cog) the chain hits the gear and jumps to up one (to the largest). But when shifting down it hits the gear and jumps down one more.
OK you are having FD and RD issues on a triple. I respectfully suggest you take it to a good LBS or friend with wrench experience and watch and listen. You will not only save time and aggravation, but you will learn more in 10 minutes than hours here, no matter how good the advice.

b21
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks barry1021....

I was think the same thing this morning. That's taking it to my LBS and have them go over the whole bike for me.

I guess the lesson here for me is to be cafeful when purchasing a new bike over the internet!
 

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ROAD&DIRT said:
Thanks barry1021....

I was think the same thing this morning. That's taking it to my LBS and have them go over the whole bike for me.

I guess the lesson here for me is to be cafeful when purchasing a new bike over the internet!
Any new bike needs a last minute thorough check up, even some LBS don't do the quality job they should. More than any other maintenance/setup routine, watching and listening to someone set the derailleurs is worth doing.

b21
 

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Unless you are a good bike-mechanic, I wouldn't recommend buying any bicycle over the internet. I hear horror-stories all the time.

As for your FD-2203 F - if this keeps giving you trouble, you might consider upgrading. The FD-2203 series are cheap, cheap, cheap. And I would expect them to act accordingly. So keep that in mind before you go sinking a bag of $$$ into fine-tuning the contraption.
 
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