Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay so here's the problem. I'm an amateur bike mechanic, have basically all the park tools I need to assemble and disassemble and maintain a bike. A coworker of my wife asked me to hook him up with clipless pedals and newer lever mounted shifters on his 10 year old cannondale R 400. Shifter conversion complete no probs.. but saving the easiest task for last (outside of teaching the guy how to ride clipless pedals) I went to remove the old toe clip mounted OEM pedals and got the non drive side off no probs.. but the drive side is frozen stiff. Tore up a perfectly good park pedal wrench and a 15mm Craftsman as well. Oh by the way I am attempting to turn the pedal in the correct direction. Two bike shop employees tried to remove it as well. Any thoughts on how to get this thing off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
Heat gun

Potential Roadkill said:
Okay so here's the problem. I'm an amateur bike mechanic, have basically all the park tools I need to assemble and disassemble and maintain a bike. A coworker of my wife asked me to hook him up with clipless pedals and newer lever mounted shifters on his 10 year old cannondale R 400. Shifter conversion complete no probs.. but saving the easiest task for last (outside of teaching the guy how to ride clipless pedals) I went to remove the old toe clip mounted OEM pedals and got the non drive side off no probs.. but the drive side is frozen stiff. Tore up a perfectly good park pedal wrench and a 15mm Craftsman as well. Oh by the way I am attempting to turn the pedal in the correct direction. Two bike shop employees tried to remove it as well. Any thoughts on how to get this thing off?
Try a heat gun, the aluminum crank arm will expand faster than the steel pedal axle. Other than that, some Liquid Wrench might also do the trick. HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
Liquid wrench, a beefy 15 mm with a thin handle, and a piece of 4130 tubing will do it for you. I prefer the 4 foot length of 4130 (any steel tubing will work really), it really gives some great torque. PB Blaster is a good penetrating oil too, very effective (melts plastic cups, be careful).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
Vice, wrench and hammer.

I usually do this with the crank on the bike, but it's probably better to remove the crank and secure it on a vice (with wood to protect the finish). Use a wrench that you don't mind denting, and take a hammer (not a soft mallet) to the end of the wrench. The sharp impacts provides huge amounts of force.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
NoMSG said:
I usually do this with the crank on the bike, but it's probably better to remove the crank and secure it on a vice (with wood to protect the finish). Use a wrench that you don't mind denting, and take a hammer (not a soft mallet) to the end of the wrench. The sharp impacts provides huge amounts of force.
I've broken more than my fair share of parts (car parts more than bike parts) by doing that. The impact is a lot more effective, but if the pedal is truly seized you'll be having your pedal threads re-cut if you do this. With a more gradual application of a lot more force you get dirty threads that a quick pass with a tap will clean up. Stripped threads are not cool, I speak from too much experience.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top