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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a week after i had the cable replaced because of broken ferrule. It started mis-shifting on like its 3rd ride. It over threw the large chain ring a few times, after getting it back on the chain ring it won't shift up to the large chain ring from the small chain ring.

When on a stand it will shift fine, but outside easy peddling it just wont go.
 

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You will tend to be putting more stress on the chains when your actually riding the bike compared to on the stand. Sram works fine, but adjustment needs to be precise. Make sure the deraileur is aligned properly with tight clearance over the chainring. Then it's just a matter of setting the limits so that you don't throw the chain over the big ring or drop it under the small one. After that, you just set the tension on the cable just enough so that you can get the chain onto the big ring.
 

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Di2 is a huge waste of money -- until you experience how well it always works.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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I am thinking of upgrading to red etap.
etap is really nice. But your mechanical derailleur should shift very reliably...if it doesn't it's not adjusted correctly. As tlg posted it's all about how they're set up. It's not hard, just follow the instructions. It is different from any other derailleur, but not difficult. Just a little more time consuming.
 

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First and foremost, your limit screws need to be adjusted to prevent the chain coming off at all.

Second, It's not uncommon to have to make some adjustments after a ride or two after you've replaced cables and housings.

Does your FD cable have an inline adjuster?
 

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etap is really nice. But your mechanical derailleur should shift very reliably...if it doesn't it's not adjusted correctly. As tlg posted it's all about how they're set up. It's not hard, just follow the instructions. It is different from any other derailleur, but not difficult. Just a little more time consuming.
Is the setup of the etap FD any different from the mechanical FD? Obviously it doesn't have cable tension. But aren't height, yay, limits all the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is the setup of the etap FD any different from the mechanical FD? Obviously it doesn't have cable tension. But aren't height, yay, limits all the same?
Etap has different limit screws and rigidity wedge to get cleaner shifting. The etap is cleaner and easier setup than that of normal sram.

And no cable stretch is huge one less factor to deal with.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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Etap has different limit screws and rigidity wedge to get cleaner shifting. The etap is cleaner and easier setup than that of normal sram.

And no cable stretch is huge one less factor to deal with.
Cables don't stretch so that isn't a problem. The problem is housing compression and ferrules that aren't properly installed. Same end result, a loose cable.


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Etap has different limit screws and rigidity wedge to get cleaner shifting. The etap is cleaner and easier setup than that of normal sram.

And no cable stretch is huge one less factor to deal with.
Doesn't matter if it has different limit screws. It still has limit screws which you have to properly adjust.

What exactly is easier setup than a mechanical FD? As CX indicated, setup is pretty much identical.

"Cable stretch" is not a problem. It occurs in the first few miles. You turn your barrel adjusters a bit and problem solved.
 

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Ah, you guys don't understand: Pitt doesn't want advice on how to adjust his mechanical FD, he wants to be talked into buying an electronic group.

I for one won't oblige: See, somehow his derailleur was working just fine up until a week ago or so. Since the laws of physics haven't changed last week, that means that derailleur can be adjusted to work just fine again, if someone does it right, that is. There's absolutely no rational reason for Pitt to buy an electronic group. Of course, there's plenty of irrational ones though...
 

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So a week after i had the cable replaced because of broken ferrule. It started mis-shifting on like its 3rd ride. It over threw the large chain ring a few times,
If it overthrew the large chain ring, then I have to agree with others here: it was NOT set up properly. The high limit screw should be set such that overthrowing the large ring is impossible.

The discussion of setting up an electronic FD is academic, since the problem here is not inherent to mechanical FD's; if you set the high limit wrong on an electronic FD, it too could overthrow the large ring.

As a side note, my own contribution to that academic debate is to say this: I'm blown away by how easy and how good and how reliable the shifting is on my 6870 FD. But the setup was basically the same as the setup of the many mechanical FD's I've set up – not really harder or easier. (I didn't have to connect a cable; I did have to set the fixing bolt, which is true of all current 11s Shimano FD's, but wasn't necessary on my Campy FDs.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think i see the problem with my setup. So i have internal cabling and the cables go around the plastic plate then through there respective holes. The shop screwed me on the cable it was causing a ton of friction on the plate becauese it wasn't the teflon kind with sram red.
 

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I think i see the problem with my setup. So i have internal cabling and the cables go around the plastic plate then through there respective holes. The shop screwed me on the cable it was causing a ton of friction on the plate becauese it wasn't the teflon kind with sram red.
What? If there was "a ton of friction" because "the shop screwed you" It would be EVEN HARDER to throw the chain to the outside.
 
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