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· 3810
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi ,has anyone ever needed to have the BB faced on one of these frames,I've had a noise coming from what I think is the BB,same old story,only when putting in a big effort out of the seat,tried pedals,replaced D/A BB regreased so may times I can not take apart and put back together blind folded:I use a torque wrench,but still no luck.I should be able to ride a complete DA 10 speed with out any noise!
The only thing I haven't done is to have the BB faced,should it be needed with a carbon frame.
Please help me!!!!!: :mad2:
 

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10,161 Posts
simple test...

First, you should always remove the paint from the faces of the BB shell. Get a set of automotive feeler gages. Screw each bearing cup in until you get contact with a .010 inch feeler. Then use .008-.012 inch feelers to search for high or low spots between the cups and the BB shell. If you find areas exceeding those high or low limits, facing might help. I say might, because there are many possible sources of creaks and it's nearly impossible to tell where they come from. A common one is the need to lube the chainring bolt areas and check their tightness. Also lube the contact areas between the chainrings and crank spiders. WD-40 or a similar product will penetrate where it's needed.

Some wheels, like Mavic Ksyriums can develop creaks from the rear spokes. A drop of lube at the end of each spoke, where it seats with the hub will fix that.
 

· 3810
Joined
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50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now that I've had the BB faced the next problem is that now I have chain rub when I'm on the 39 on the inside of the 53 chain ring when on the 12 or 11 cogs( I hope that makes sence)I know you don't ride on the small-small ratios but I dont think it rubbed before.Could the LBS taken so much from my frame to change the chain line?Is the width of a BB shell exactley 68mm?If too much material was been taken away is their a spacer made to fit my D/A BB to make my chain line correct again.
And I'm not sure it has fixed my first problem!!!
 
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