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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recommendations? Keep in mind I am lazy about cleaning drivetrain. Only want to have to open bottle of cleaner that is pre-made, pour it into a container to allow for soaking, take off chain and cassette and put in container, soak, dry off, and lube chain. I will use a rag to clean chainrings while still on bike.
 

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I would go along with the above Kerry Irons post with the following subtraction and addition: Instead of dripping your oil on the chain as it spins, carefully add one small drop to each link. Just mark where you begin and move the chain backwards as needed to expose more links. This saves oil. And won't leave much of a mess that needs wiping off or up. Nonetheless wipe down the chain thoroughly after you finish oiling it and allowing the oil to work in - say 20 minutes. Oil attracts dirt from Outer-Space! Wipe it! :thumbsup:

I use Boeshield T-9 myself. If I'm out - then I'll use either Finish Line Teflon-based oil, or TriFlow Teflon-based oil.


EDIT: What the heck is up with the forum software? It moves posts into the wrong number and all over the map!
 

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If you're really lazy

MCF said:
Recommendations? Keep in mind I am lazy about cleaning drivetrain. Only want to have to open bottle of cleaner that is pre-made, pour it into a container to allow for soaking, take off chain and cassette and put in container, soak, dry off, and lube chain. I will use a rag to clean chainrings while still on bike.
Your method sounds like a lot of work to me. How about this: Assuming we're talking road riding, use the following technique for successful ProLink or homebrew lube (1 part motor oil to 3-4 parts odorless mineral spirits) application and use:

1 - wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
2 - drip on lube while pedaling (forward is better) so that the chain just starts to drip lube. Aim the lube between the side plates and between the bushings and the side plates.
3 - run through all the gears several times, front and back.
4 - thoroughly wipe the chain, cogs, pulleys, and chainrings clean with a rag.
5 - repeat steps 2-4 if the chain was really dirty

Do this AFTER a ride, as you want to allow time for the solvent to evaporate before you head out on the road. If you do this every 300 miles or so (or when you get caught in the rain), you will not get any significant gunky buildup, and you won't have to clean the chain or the cassette. This leaves lube on the inside parts, and wipes it off the outside parts, minimizing dirt pickup.

No lube is "perfect." A brite shiny chain that is clean to the touch but is well lubed and gives long mileage is still not possible. IMO, ProLink is the best compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok...guess I was't quite clear enough....don't want to mix motor oil, mineral spirits, etc. etc...off the shelf, pay, open, clean. Clear?
 

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MEK is the best it can clean anything
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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kerry's advice is good, as always. you can also try this...
get this stuff:
pedro's brush kit ($17)
simple green or equivalent ($3-4)
chain lube ($4-10)
old rags

give the drivetrain a quick squirt w/ your hose, not too much pressure. spray cleaner on the drivetrain parts. pick out a couple of brushes that you'll only use on the drivetrain parts and give a quick scrub. rinse off the cleaner/muck/grime w/ the hose. obviously, the more often you do this, the less work it will be. dry bike w/ rag. lube chain. wipe off excess. done. the other brushes in the kit (there are what...5 total in there?) can be used around the brakes and on the frame/bars/saddle etc. i used to use only diesel fuel for cleaning the drivetrain parts, but all of the big races have banned it's use at race provided hotel parking lots...sooooooo, simple green or something like it is what i now use.
 

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1, OMS (Odorless Mineral Spirits)
2. Rag
3. Wipe until no significant staining of the Rag
4. Favorite Lube
5. Rag
6. Wipe until no significant staining of the Rag.
John
 

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May I suggest doing a search? You'll find enough reading material for a month. Seriously, we get this questions a couple of times every week. I'm certainly willing to help, but this question has been answered a hundred times over.
 

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No mixing

MCF said:
Ok...guess I was't quite clear enough....don't want to mix motor oil, mineral spirits, etc. etc...off the shelf, pay, open, clean. Clear?
Uh, ProLink chain lube is a commercial product, available in any good bike shop. It sounds to me like you just want to take your chain off.
 

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Process goals

Puchnuts said:
I would go along with the above Kerry Irons post with the following subtraction and addition: Instead of dripping your oil on the chain as it spins, carefully add one small drop to each link. Just mark where you begin and move the chain backwards as needed to expose more links. This saves oil.
The goal of the method I listed is to both clean and lube the chain. The reason for the heavy application is to dissolve all the gunk that has collected on the chain and then allow that to be wiped off with the excess lube/solvent. A single drop per link does not accomplish this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Simple green question?

cxwrench said:
kerry's advice is good, as always. you can also try this...
get this stuff:
pedro's brush kit ($17)
simple green or equivalent ($3-4)
chain lube ($4-10)
old rags

give the drivetrain a quick squirt w/ your hose, not too much pressure. spray cleaner on the drivetrain parts. pick out a couple of brushes that you'll only use on the drivetrain parts and give a quick scrub. rinse off the cleaner/muck/grime w/ the hose. obviously, the more often you do this, the less work it will be. dry bike w/ rag. lube chain. wipe off excess. done. the other brushes in the kit (there are what...5 total in there?) can be used around the brakes and on the frame/bars/saddle etc. i used to use only diesel fuel for cleaning the drivetrain parts, but all of the big races have banned it's use at race provided hotel parking lots...sooooooo, simple green or something like it is what i now use.
So it's ok to spray cassette, chainrings, and chain with simple green to clean them and if the simple green gets on carbon frame, rear wheel, carbon cranks it won't hurt them, discolor them, etc. etc.?????
 
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