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His gears are special, you see, they go to ....eleven!
19 posts and no one even knows what the cog he is talking about.
 

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I forgot to mention I installed a new 11/28 Ultegra R8000 cassette and that's when this sound came about

Yes, you didn't fully tighten the cassette. If you can jiggle the the largest cog back and forth, it means there is still some 'play' in the cassette that shouldn't be there. It's most noticeable when in the smaller cogs during riding. In your case, there's so much noise, it is still very loose.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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Just look...space should be the same between all of the cogs. If you mess up w/ spacers it will be exceptionally obvious.
 

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If you removed and re-installed the chain, check and see if it's traveling in the right direction. Not sure if having the chain run in the wrong direction would make that much noise, so just a thought. Also--old chain on new cassette?
 

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It's clear from the video that the cogs are on in the correct order and correct spacers. But can't tell if it's tight or not.

If you removed and re-installed the chain, check and see if it's traveling in the right direction. Not sure if having the chain run in the wrong direction would make that much noise, so just a thought.
A backwards chain might affect shifting but wouldn't make that sound.

Also--old chain on new cassette?
It's it's an old worn chain, a simple test would be to put the old cassette back on and see if the noise goes away.
 

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Yes, tlg, all true. Just throwing out some ideas on what changed or could have changed.

If you go into the adjustment mode, you can move the derailleur in fractions of a millimeter with the shifter. That allows you to line up the upper pulley with a cog precisely. It can also tell you which way you're off in the last three or four cogs by making adjustment mode micro-shifts and listening to the change in the noise.

I keep thinking messing with the limit screws was a mistake. I'd allow the chain to go towards the wheel just a smidgeon more (perhaps 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise on the upper limit screw) and see if there's a change.
 

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No, we don't. He should be banned. Why do you guys tolerate it?
While duriel's post may have been irritating to you, there were no insults or personal attacks. However, if it really bothers you, you can report the post.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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Yes, tlg, all true. Just throwing out some ideas on what changed or could have changed.

If you go into the adjustment mode, you can move the derailleur in fractions of a millimeter with the shifter. That allows you to line up the upper pulley with a cog precisely. It can also tell you which way you're off in the last three or four cogs by making adjustment mode micro-shifts and listening to the change in the noise.

I keep thinking messing with the limit screws was a mistake. I'd allow the chain to go towards the wheel just a smidgeon more (perhaps 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise on the upper limit screw) and see if there's a change.
Hey wim, been a while. Happy New Year!
 

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Thanks, cxwrench! Yes, it's been a while. I left the bicycle repair business some time ago, but still have an interest in all things mechanical. Have a good 2021!
 

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I think his cassette is loose or the freewheel/hub loose or the bearings are shot.

I guess he never seen 'spinal tap'.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hmm, there is no play in the cassette. BTW, wouldn't the cassette sort of tighten down on its own if for some reason, you didn't torque it down correctly? Tho I did use the correct cassette tool and full size torque wrench. I've seen someone else riding that had a loose cassette where it did move on the hub
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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No, how would a cassette self tighten? You've installed it yourself, do you still not understand how it works? A freewheel will self tighten as you pedal because it's installed on threads. Cassette cogs are on splines and then...as you hopefully know...the lockring holds them on. How can you be confused about this?
 

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Hmm, there is no play in the cassette. BTW, wouldn't the cassette sort of tighten down on its own if for some reason, you didn't torque it down correctly? Tho I did use the correct cassette tool and full size torque wrench. I've seen someone else riding that had a loose cassette where it did move on the hub
Based on this comment, and the fact that this noise started after you replaced the cassette, I would strongly suggest removing the cassette and re-installing it. If you aren't sure the correct procedure for this, ask a friend or take it to a bike shop. It's a pretty straightforward process, but if you get it wrong, it can make a mess of things.

A properly installed cassette doesn't do what yours is doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Update - Thanks to all the input on here, I tried a number of things including taking the cassette out and verifying if everything was aligned in the splines and re-installed and re-torqued to 40Nm. The noise didn't change or go away so today I was able to get it into the LBS for them to take a look. They checked the derailleurs, cassette, and chain, and said as long as it doesn't sound like that while I'm riding, it should be ok (it doesn't make noise when I'm riding). They did a quick check on my H and L and made a minor adjustment but it made no difference.

While they were checking things out, they noticed my rear wheel was a tiny bit out of true so went ahead and had them to take care of that. Now everything is nice and smooth. They also noticed my ISO-Speed bearing on the seat tube was a little loose and tightened it down. That being loose is probably related to my prior post about the steering tube coming loose from the rough trail I rode a month ago.

Last thing I'll comment is I had a minor creak from my right side on my DA R9100 crank and couldn't figure it out. Even replaced the inner chainring bolts with new shimano correct spec'd bolts and properly torqued them down to 14Nm but the sound was still there. Only happened when I was pushing down with my right foot. After checking and cleaning everything including the pedals and the left crank bolts, re-torquing, i was out of ideas. But I thought of one last thing when I saw that the 4 contact points of the spider arms to the large chainring had some minor friction marks. I decided to put a bit of the chain lube into each junction and gave it a quick wipe down. Sure enough, it silenced the creak. Hopefully that helps someone, or maybe you guys already all knew and I'm just figuring this out now haha.

TLDR: LBS did a check on drivetrain and said it was normal as long as it doesn't make noise when I'm riding it. Fixed a minor creak on my DA crank arms by lubing the spider with chain lube.
 

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Last thing I'll comment is I had a minor creak from my right side on my DA R9100 crank and couldn't figure it out. Even replaced the inner chainring bolts with new shimano correct spec'd bolts and properly torqued them down to 14Nm but the sound was still there. Only happened when I was pushing down with my right foot. After checking and cleaning everything including the pedals and the left crank bolts, re-torquing, i was out of ideas. But I thought of one last thing when I saw that the 4 contact points of the spider arms to the large chainring had some minor friction marks. I decided to put a bit of the chain lube into each junction and gave it a quick wipe down. Sure enough, it silenced the creak. Hopefully that helps someone, or maybe you guys already all knew and I'm just figuring this out now haha.
When I got my first good bike back in 1969, everything was clamp-on. Brake cable guides, downtube shifters, BB cable guides, pump pegs, etc. The bike came built with a dab of grease under each of these clamps to protect the frame. I adopted that technique - when I overhaul the bike, all contact surfaces get a thin coat of grease. My bikes are always silent.
 
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