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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the tires I ordered for my 1980 Schwinn Le Tour from nashbar, and I threw them on along with some new tubes last night. I also ordered some bar wrap, a new chain, and some cables/housings and brake pads to get her back into riding shape but I wanted to do the tires first. I decided to take it out for a late night ride and went around the neighborhood. I couldn't believe how much fun it was. I went to sleep just chomping at the bit to ride again today. My girlfriend and I hit a local paved trail and got about two miles from our flat before something weird happened.

I was cruising along at a leisurely pace and it suddenly felt like the front brake was engaging on its own. It braked on and off about three times before a huge pop sounded and I stopped. The front tire appeared to have come over the edge of the rim and rubbed against the brake pad before the tube popped. I'm not really sure why/how this happened, but at least I wasn't bombing a hill at the time. Anyway, I have a feeling the wheel isn't true, but I'm not sure if that had anything to do with this incident (this is my first road bike, after all).

Any thoughts?
 

· RBR Veteran Opinionater
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Sounds like maybe your tire wasn't seated and let the tube sneak out in one spot. Make sure you have the right size tire, should be 27" X 1 1/4" if you have the original rims on the LeTour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those are the size I ordered and the order form confirms it. Maybe I just suck at putting on tires. It was my first time, after all. What's the best method for mounting the tires/tubes? Also, how much would it cost (ballpark) to have my wheels trued?
 

· I self medicate, I ride
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When I put a tire/tube back on I inflate it to about 1/2 recommended pressure and then grasp the tire in tire in both hands and rock the tire back and forth in the rim all the way around the wheel. Sometimes the bead looks like it is engaged but will pop off. I have found this to take care that issue.
Depends on how bad they are out of true. Trueing them is worth it, plus your mechanic will ensure the wheel is still structurally sound.
 

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A couple of tricks to help avoid this kind of problem in the future:

1. Put baby/talcum powder inside the tire and on the new tube, a light dusting is enough. This will help with mounting the tire so that the tube does not get pinched and allows the tube to move around inside the tire while mounting.

2. After you have the tire mounted (with the tube inside) pump up the tire just enough to give it shape, you should be able to easily push the tire in to the rim. Then using your thumb and fingers push the tire at the bead (the part that touches the rim) laterally toward the center of the rim and make sure there is no tube caught under the bead of the tire. Repeat this process around the entire tire from both sides of the rim.


3. Deflate the tire again and walk around the tire with your hands to seat the tire in the rim. Then re-inflate the tire to a slight more than you did in step 2. Look at the tire for any line that runs parallel to the circumference of the rim and work your way around the rim making sure that that line remains at a constant distance from the edge of the rim. If a spot on the tire seems to bulge out, let out a little pressure and use your thumb and fingers to re-seat the tire at that spot, re-inflate and continue. Repeat for both sides and then inflate slowly while checking that the tire is remaining seated. Once you have it up to half of the recommended pressure and the tire seams to be properly seated you should be good to go, fill the tire to 80% or so of max rated pressure and your done.

Sorry if this was a bit long winded, it’s easier to show someone how to do this than it is to explain it in writing. Practice this a couple of times and you should find that it is pretty easy to do.

As for truing, it really depends on how badly they are out of true, Guess would be $10-$20 maybe more. Free if you find the right bike shop and the mechanic is in a good mood and bored at the time.

Have you swapped out you chain already? Be very very careful doing that and do not even consider doing it if you do not have a chain break tool. Ideally your new chain will have a tool-less link, however even with this you still need a chain break to adjust the length of your chain. The easy way to do this is to make it the same length as your old one, just count the number of links longer you new chain is and then take it to a shop and have them break it for you. Then just follow the instructions on mounting the master link.

When I was a teenager I swapped out a chain using a center punch and a hammer, it “worked” fine until I was about half up a pretty steep hill when it snapped. I learned two things that day: 1) What a “Pizza Elbow” was and 2) What a chain break tool was. I think that was the only time I have ever hit a note higher than middle “C”

Shawn
 
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