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A couple of tricks to help avoid this kind of problem in the future:
1. Put baby/talcum powder inside the tire and on the new tube, a light dusting is enough. This will help with mounting the tire so that the tube does not get pinched and allows the tube to move around inside the tire while mounting.
2. After you have the tire mounted (with the tube inside) pump up the tire just enough to give it shape, you should be able to easily push the tire in to the rim. Then using your thumb and fingers push the tire at the bead (the part that touches the rim) laterally toward the center of the rim and make sure there is no tube caught under the bead of the tire. Repeat this process around the entire tire from both sides of the rim.
3. Deflate the tire again and walk around the tire with your hands to seat the tire in the rim. Then re-inflate the tire to a slight more than you did in step 2. Look at the tire for any line that runs parallel to the circumference of the rim and work your way around the rim making sure that that line remains at a constant distance from the edge of the rim. If a spot on the tire seems to bulge out, let out a little pressure and use your thumb and fingers to re-seat the tire at that spot, re-inflate and continue. Repeat for both sides and then inflate slowly while checking that the tire is remaining seated. Once you have it up to half of the recommended pressure and the tire seams to be properly seated you should be good to go, fill the tire to 80% or so of max rated pressure and your done.
Sorry if this was a bit long winded, it’s easier to show someone how to do this than it is to explain it in writing. Practice this a couple of times and you should find that it is pretty easy to do.
As for truing, it really depends on how badly they are out of true, Guess would be $10-$20 maybe more. Free if you find the right bike shop and the mechanic is in a good mood and bored at the time.
Have you swapped out you chain already? Be very very careful doing that and do not even consider doing it if you do not have a chain break tool. Ideally your new chain will have a tool-less link, however even with this you still need a chain break to adjust the length of your chain. The easy way to do this is to make it the same length as your old one, just count the number of links longer you new chain is and then take it to a shop and have them break it for you. Then just follow the instructions on mounting the master link.
When I was a teenager I swapped out a chain using a center punch and a hammer, it “worked” fine until I was about half up a pretty steep hill when it snapped. I learned two things that day: 1) What a “Pizza Elbow” was and 2) What a chain break tool was. I think that was the only time I have ever hit a note higher than middle “C”
Shawn
1. Put baby/talcum powder inside the tire and on the new tube, a light dusting is enough. This will help with mounting the tire so that the tube does not get pinched and allows the tube to move around inside the tire while mounting.
2. After you have the tire mounted (with the tube inside) pump up the tire just enough to give it shape, you should be able to easily push the tire in to the rim. Then using your thumb and fingers push the tire at the bead (the part that touches the rim) laterally toward the center of the rim and make sure there is no tube caught under the bead of the tire. Repeat this process around the entire tire from both sides of the rim.
3. Deflate the tire again and walk around the tire with your hands to seat the tire in the rim. Then re-inflate the tire to a slight more than you did in step 2. Look at the tire for any line that runs parallel to the circumference of the rim and work your way around the rim making sure that that line remains at a constant distance from the edge of the rim. If a spot on the tire seems to bulge out, let out a little pressure and use your thumb and fingers to re-seat the tire at that spot, re-inflate and continue. Repeat for both sides and then inflate slowly while checking that the tire is remaining seated. Once you have it up to half of the recommended pressure and the tire seams to be properly seated you should be good to go, fill the tire to 80% or so of max rated pressure and your done.
Sorry if this was a bit long winded, it’s easier to show someone how to do this than it is to explain it in writing. Practice this a couple of times and you should find that it is pretty easy to do.
As for truing, it really depends on how badly they are out of true, Guess would be $10-$20 maybe more. Free if you find the right bike shop and the mechanic is in a good mood and bored at the time.
Have you swapped out you chain already? Be very very careful doing that and do not even consider doing it if you do not have a chain break tool. Ideally your new chain will have a tool-less link, however even with this you still need a chain break to adjust the length of your chain. The easy way to do this is to make it the same length as your old one, just count the number of links longer you new chain is and then take it to a shop and have them break it for you. Then just follow the instructions on mounting the master link.
When I was a teenager I swapped out a chain using a center punch and a hammer, it “worked” fine until I was about half up a pretty steep hill when it snapped. I learned two things that day: 1) What a “Pizza Elbow” was and 2) What a chain break tool was. I think that was the only time I have ever hit a note higher than middle “C”
Shawn
