Road Bike, Cycling Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I have Easton EA30 bars on my ride. They have a 130mm drop and a 75mm reach. As a weight-reducing upgrade, I purchased Ritchey WCS bars, which have a 144mm drop and a 82mm reach.

Now my question is : since the reach is 7mm longer, is it likely that I will need a shorter stem to have the same setup? I'm very comfortable the way I am now, resting on the hoods is very natural and I was wondering if it's anything of a good idea to get a 10mm shorter stem to compensate, or should I just keep the one I have?

In short : will the new handlebar geometry make that much of a difference?
 

·
duh...
Joined
·
9,749 Posts
Svooterz said:
Now my question is : since the reach is 7mm longer, is it likely that I will need a shorter stem to have the same setup?
for hoods, yes, for tops, no
and you might need new cable housings



Svooterz said:
I was wondering if it's anything of a good idea to get a 10mm shorter stem to compensate, or should I just keep the one I have?
depends if you want to match the tops or hoods position



Svooterz said:
In short : will the new handlebar geometry make that much of a difference?
maybe, maybe not... doubt you'd notice a huge difference in handling. a 1cm position change can sometimes make a difference in comfort
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,620 Posts
I would certainly try your existing stem first. I doubt you'll notice any difference, especially after the first couple of rides.

You'll be in the same position when riding "on the tops". Getting a shorter stem would change that riding position.

The change in the drop is much more significant. You'll be much lower when riding in the drops which may be good if you don't have any back issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Dammit, should've read the specs earlier on...

The fact that I won't be able to get both the hoods and the tops at the same place they are now bothers me a bit... I guess I will go to my LBS and have another fit session when I ever get to have the bars installed.

This may not be anytime soon though. Especially if I need new cable housing.

I think I will change bars only when my cables are worn out or when the current bar exceeds its fatigue life, whichever happens first ...and hopefully, that will be the need for new cables!!!

I never thought there could be such major difference between "anatomic", non-shallow bend bars. Oh well.

P.S. as for the major difference in the drop, it's not a big deal. I don't have back problems. I'm only 24 and my back has yet to show signs of aging ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,620 Posts
Svooterz said:
The fact that I won't be able to get both the hoods and the tops at the same place they are now bothers me a bit...
You may be worrying too much.

Here's the good news.

Years and years ago, I was told that deep drop bars are good in that you can set the tops so that climbing is comfortable an still have the drops for a good low aero position. If your bars don't have a deep drop, you may have compromised one position or the other. Since then I've always ridden bars with deeper drops that and think it is good advice.

You'll notice that pros, who seem to run their bars far below their saddle height, have started turning their bars up in the last few years, It just gives then a more upright position for climbing.

Go to youtube and search for John Howard bike fit videos. In #2 ( at about 1:30 in the video) he suggests the way to set your bars/levers for a good riding position. I've tried it and it works for me.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top