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The lightweight hubs you get with most branded wheels are crap compared to Shimano hubs, which have better seals and can be serviced with normal tools.

If you think an "extra" 100g or 200g or 400g is holding you back, you're insane.

My pick would be the rim of your choice handbuilt with Shimano hubs and normal DB spokes (not the super skinny ones which wind up too much and don't build/adjust easily).

This is what most of the Cat III or better riders that I know have -- reliable wheels that don't cause them to miss training rides or races. Or cost money that's better spent on races or training.

That said, I have ~15k on a set of Rolf Sestriere. I almost sold them off to get a set of "normal" wheels, but stuck with them and they've been OK. Just OK. They hubs are noisy as hell, the seals are lousy, and they're finicky about grease. After re-tensioning and stress relieving, they've stayed mostly stayed straight.

A friend has ~50k on a set of CXP33/Ultegra/32h and they're still riding as new with no maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
cdhbrad said:
Do a search using "Spam" in the keywords and you should come up with a thread from this forum that fully explored the relative values of handbuilts vs. prebuilts with comments from many of the builders who post here often. I'm in the handbuilt camp myself.
cdhbrad, can you remember any more of the keywords or the title of the thread? There are a *lot* of threads that come up in a search for 'spam' and I can't seem to find the one I think you mean. I tried searching for spam + wheels and in the 3 pages of results could not find a match either?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thanks for the suggestion mattotoole. I think I will be building a set of wheels and as I'm currently riding Shimano groppo, I'll stick with Shimano hubs. Now I just need to choose the right rims.

My reference is an old set of wheels built up with Mavic Mach2 CD2 rims which I really, really love for their strength and stiffness, especially when strapped onto my old steel frame.

How do I go about identifying rim that I can buy today will give me the same performance and feeling on my current carbon framed machine?
 

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Matty-T said:
cdhbrad, can you remember any more of the keywords or the title of the thread? There are a *lot* of threads that come up in a search for 'spam' and I can't seem to find the one I think you mean. I tried searching for spam + wheels and in the 3 pages of results could not find a match either?
6th one that came up using the advanced search feature on "spam" and narrowing the search to only the wheel forum, enjoy: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=217078&highlight=spam
 

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Sorry, I can't. Someone started a thread that basically implied that whenever a builder responded to a thread requesting a suggestion for wheels, of which there are many, that the builder was basically spamming the board. That divolved into a several day discussion about the relative value between factory/botique vs. handbuilt wheels. Actually, it was a good discussion of the pros and cons of both. Can't remember who started it.
 

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Matty-T said:
Thanks for the suggestion mattotoole. I think I will be building a set of wheels and as I'm currently riding Shimano groppo, I'll stick with Shimano hubs. Now I just need to choose the right rims.

My reference is an old set of wheels built up with Mavic Mach2 CD2 rims which I really, really love for their strength and stiffness, especially when strapped onto my old steel frame.

How do I go about identifying rim that I can buy today will give me the same performance and feeling on my current carbon framed machine?
If you're buying from a wheelbuilder, go with what they like and are used to building with.

Asymmetric rear rims like Velocity Aerohead really do work in balancing out the spoke tension, and make a stiffer, more reliable rear wheel.

I'm not familiar with the Mach 2, but CXP33 are really stout and not too heavy. Open Pro are at the lighter end of things and known as reliable. Other than that, quality matters and Mavic, Velocity, and DT all make quality rims. Others too but those are what I'm familiar with. If you want stiff and strong, Velocity DeepV are hard to beat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yes, I'm after something strong and stiff and high quality. That's what I love about the Mach 2's. I want to try and replicate the same feeling they give to my steel frame but on a new wheel built to run on my KG281 carbon frame.

The Mach 2's are 19mm deep so not quite the 23mm depth of the CPX33 but one thing I did just notice is that the CPX33 - and all of the rims on he Mavic web site - are clinchers not tubulars. I can't believe Mavic are no longer making tubular rims!
My current training wheels are Open Pro's and - call me old fashioned - but I want to run tubulars for racing. mmm... a nice pair of Vittoria Corsa CX's. Can't go wrong with that I say.
Velocity seem to have two Tubulars, the "Escape" that looks about the same demensions as the Mach 2's but is about 100g lighter per rim and another one which is a fair bit deeper and heavier.
 

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Matty-T said:
Yes, I'm after something strong and stiff and high quality. That's what I love about the Mach 2's. I want to try and replicate the same feeling they give to my steel frame but on a new wheel built to run on my KG281 carbon frame.

The Mach 2's are 19mm deep so not quite the 23mm depth of the CPX33 but one thing I did just notice is that the CPX33 - and all of the rims on he Mavic web site - are clinchers not tubulars. I can't believe Mavic are no longer making tubular rims!
My current training wheels are Open Pro's and - call me old fashioned - but I want to run tubulars for racing. mmm... a nice pair of Vittoria Corsa CX's. Can't go wrong with that I say.
Velocity seem to have two Tubulars, the "Escape" that looks about the same demensions as the Mach 2's but is about 100g lighter per rim and another one which is a fair bit deeper and heavier.
Mavic does make a tubular rim, called Reflex. It is a standard profile (non aero).
 
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