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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It has 1-1/8" carbon steerer tube and came with some no name headset that keeps wiggling. What are reasonably priced alternatives? The bike is very light right now, so I don't want to spoil that with a heavy component.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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Wow...could you provide any less information? Integrated headset? Pressed-in cups? If it's integrated, which standard is it?
And...
The fact that it loosens up is most likely not the fault of the headset.

You're not going to gain or lose much weight w/ the headset so don't worry much about that.

Give us some more info and maybe we can come up w/ some advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Here is the picture I took before I installed the fork. I am glad I found it, otherwise I would have to disassemble this part of the bicycle.

It's true that I don't have the headset's top cap pressing down onto the stem, because I have not cut the steerer tube yet, so it's too long right now to install the crown nut unless I put a lot of spacers below the top cap (which is indeed a viable but silly solution). But I do push the stem as hard as I can down onto the spacers before I tighten the pinch bolts to squeeze the stem tight onto the steerer tube. So that should be sufficient to keep the headset tight as long as the stem remains rigid and immobile against the steerer tube. I also used a screwdriver to tap the compression ring evenly onto the top bearing before I install the spacers and stem.

Notice the right-most metal ring, the crown race, that presses against the cartridge bearing to its left. That interface is strange: the thin left-side edge of the crown race barely contacts the edge of the cartridge bearing, and that seems too small a contact area to support half the weight of the rider.

Product Brown Text Photograph White
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A most likely cause of the wiggle is that the compression ring on top needs to be re-seated onto the top bearing. You can see the compression ring as the left most piece in my picture.

The CF piece (not shown in the picture) that is on top of the compression ring binds rather tightly against the steerer tube, so pushing down on the stem by hand won't provide enough pressure to seat a compression ring that has come loose. Maybe that is why using a top cap and star nut to do this pushing down is mandatory.

Hence I need to cut my CF steerer tube. But how do I do that cleanly?
 

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From the picture (I'm using my phone, so the pic is small), it looks like the fork has an integrated lower race. Ergo, you shouldn't be using the metal race that came with the headset. It will never, ever be tight if it has 2 races. Also, you can't get an integrated headset tight enough without the top cap. That would be top cap/expander - NOT star nut. You never, ever, EVER use a star nut in a carbon steerer tube.
 

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Looking at the photo, I believe that Platy is correct.

Meaning you will have to dissassemble the thing anyway.

Sounds like you need some experienced help. There are serious safety implications to messing things up with a headset install.

Either get help, or research enough that you have a proper understanding as to what you are doing.

We have a saying "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The headset I have on it now will need the metal lower race to fit properly, since the integrated lower race you speak of is much too large in diameter for the lower cartridge bearing.

I can get a whole new headset meant for CF steerer tubes, with suitable top cap and expander, but are you sure the top of the fork is meant to press up against the lower bearing directly, assuming I get a suitable new headset? This headset came with the bike frame, and the frame supplier claims it is supposed to work with this fork.
 

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'brifter' is f'ing stupid
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It's pretty obvious to me that something is wrong w/ the lower bearing/crown race that you have...like you have a 1.5" tapered fork and a headset that is for 1.25" tapered steerers, or maybe 1.375"(like Cervelo). Given your level on expertise, head to a good local shop and get some help. Do NOT attempt to assemble something that is this important to your long term well being if you don't understand what is going on.
 

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Cxwrench has it. Looks like your headset is totally wrong. Bring your china carbon to your shop, deal with the humiliation it, and get it done right. Needing help may suck, but breaking your bike sucks more. You also need to trim that Steerer to get it to tighten up at all, unless you pile on spacers. But then you have to do the same task again.
Like Platy said, if you use a star-nut in your carbon, we will laugh at your misery. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE use a compression plug. Breaking your own stuff sucks, that's why CXwrench, Platy, myself, and lots of other wrenches do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, guys, for all your input.

I'll go get a headset designed for a carbon fork and a steerer tube with an integrated 1-1/2" lower race then, so that the lower cartridge bearing will fit smoothly, gently, snugly, and directly onto the top of the fork.

I hope I have all the right terminology.

I bought my SRAM Red gruppo from the LBS, and I've bought many small parts from the LBG (local bike garage, which mostly does servicing, not sales), so I know both those shops well, and I am on very good terms with the people in both those places. I got my carbon tubular rear tire patched up with Tufo sealant and it works fine now, so all I need is a new headset on this bike.
 

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I was planning on getting a used one off eBay and installing it myself.

As for cutting the steerer tube, that should be a fun challenge.
A used headset? You can buy a new one for less than $50.00...and have the damn shop install it. Seeing all the questions you've been asking I seriously doubt your ability to do the job correctly.
 

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I was planning on getting a used one off eBay and installing it myself.

As for cutting the steerer tube, that should be a fun challenge.
I hope you are joking. Sometimes humor does not translate so well on the internet.

Your questions indicate that you don't have a clue.

Looking at your photo I'm not convinced it's the wrong headset, it may just be that you don't need the crown race.

Get help.
 

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Here is the picture I took before I installed the fork. I am glad I found it, otherwise I would have to disassemble this part of the bicycle.

It's true that I don't have the headset's top cap pressing down onto the stem, because I have not cut the steerer tube yet, so it's too long right now to install the crown nut unless I put a lot of spacers below the top cap (which is indeed a viable but silly solution). But I do push the stem as hard as I can down onto the spacers before I tighten the pinch bolts to squeeze the stem tight onto the steerer tube. So that should be sufficient to keep the headset tight as long as the stem remains rigid and immobile against the steerer tube. I also used a screwdriver to tap the compression ring evenly onto the top bearing before I install the spacers and stem.

Notice the right-most metal ring, the crown race, that presses against the cartridge bearing to its left. That interface is strange: the thin left-side edge of the crown race barely contacts the edge of the cartridge bearing, and that seems too small a contact area to support half the weight of the rider.

View attachment 287363
Myhui, do you have a photo of the the headset assembled? That might be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Myhui, do you have a photo of the the headset assembled? That might be helpful.
Yes, but it's all hidden underneath the carbon of the frame, so you won't see anything. It looks "flush" from the outside, as if the bike is properly fitted, and the bike rides just fine. I don't notice the wiggle when I'm riding, only when I'm lifting up the bike.
 

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Yes, but it's all hidden underneath the carbon of the frame, so you won't see anything. It looks "flush" from the outside, as if the bike is properly fitted, and the bike rides just fine. I don't notice the wiggle when I'm riding, only when I'm lifting up the bike.
If you have actually ridden the bike, the fork may already be trashed.
 
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