[eyebob]

I've got this, um, er, ah, project going on where I'm trying to throw good money after bad. I'm overhauling my Winter bike to upgrade it from a 105 triple 8 spd to a 9spd (don't tell Kerry Irons, I can just hear his "tsk, tsk" because I'm doing this in the first place instead of just buying a whole new/used Winter bike). It's a 1997 Cannondale CAAD 3. My question is whether anyone out there knows whether it as a 1" or 1 1/8" headset and whether it's threaded or not. I really know very little about wrenching, which is partly why I'm trying to do the overhaul. It's got a quill stem and the orginal carbon fork.

I tried to contact Cannondale, but I have not gotten a response.

Thoughts?

BT

 

[C-40]

park tool...

It's a 1" threaded headset with a quill stem. You better start reading up at www.parktool.com. Installing pressed-in headset cups is simple with the expensive tool, but also possible with other simple tools, although more care is required. Instead of a headset press, a threaded rod and large flat washers are often used. I've done it with a block of wood and hammer.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127

 

[eyebob]

Yeah, I visit Park Tool often

I've got the tools for the rest of the makeover job, but I've got this friend (insert Spiccoli's voice here) that's a former wrench with "like, an excellent set of tools." I'll be having him do the headset install.

BTW, what's a "stack height" on a head set, and why should I care. (BTW, yas, yas, I'll go to sheldonbrown.com to get an answer too!)

BT

 

[C-40]

stack height...

That's the total length of the upper and lower parts of the headset. Whether it matters depends on how the bike was set up originally. If there is no spacer under the locknut, then the new headset must be no longer than the old one, or there will be no threads showing to engage the locknut. If you have a spacer then there will be some room for a slightly taller headset.

 

[eyebob]

Thanks nm

nmnmnmnmn