[Brad the Bold]

Got to love helping a fellow cyclist spend his money right?

Here's the deal, I might be a cheapskate depending on how you define it. I love "bang for the buck". I won't buy garbage just because it's cheap, but I hate to pay top dollar for mostly name if I can the same quality from a smaller company. I hate disposable stuff. If it still has some use I save it.

I'm a recreational cyclist who go back into road biking about 10 years ago after being away since college. (I'm 41). I recently moved to Madison WI and fell in with a great group of cyclists and I'm having the best season of my life. I've dropped 10 pounds (5'10, now 170) and I'm riding up to 70 miles a week. I don't race but my "big events" are local centuries like the Trek-100 this weekend. I also have done "Race the Lake" a 90 mile timed open entry race in Fon du Lac. I am usually in the 19mph range over a century and I'm dreaming of 20mph this year.

My trusty ride is getting a bit worn and I'm considering some upgrades. I ride a 2003 TCR-2 that was an affordable mid-entry level road bike at the time. Specs are here:

http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2003&Brand=Giant&Model=TCR 2&Type=bike

My bike is mostly stock as shown. Tires have been replace many times latest with Michelin Krylion Carbon tires. Total weight is a whisker under 20#.

I find it hard to justify a new bike when this one feels so good. Plus I'm looking at $2000+ just to get what I have now (Aluminum frame and all Shimano 105 components), granted that mine is all 8 years old now.

Question one:
Do I get more bang for the buck from $2000+ on a whole new love, or $500-$750 on upgrades for an old friend?

Question two:
If you vote for upgrade, what upgrades would be the most cost effective?

• I'm looking at those old Mavic wheels and thinking something lighter. (Williams s19?)
  
• I could use a new chain and rear cassette. Stick with 105 or upgrade?
  
• Should I replace or upgrade the crankset while I'm at it?

 

[buck-50]

New wheels, if you've got upgrade fever.

Since you're in Madison (welcome!), go over to Cronometro and tell them you want something light and strong and tell them how much you've got to spend. They'll build you wheels that'll be light, strong and easily fixable. They really build good wheels.

Or, a new ultegra drivetrain. But that's getting pretty pricey.

Those older TCRs are awesome little bikes.

 

[sokudo]

Pedal Force has a group buy for their new frame, RS3. The frame plus Rival plus parts and some good wheels from UK (fulcrum) will cost less than $2K.

 

[Ventruck]

When it comes to your bike vs. today, I'd say you're only losing out on the 10-speed, which is arguably nothing to some people. Weight can be interpreted in many ways (you vs. your bike's, etc) as well as stiffness. Unless your bike is breaking apart, there's nothing wrong with the typical parts replacement/maintenance to elongate it's life. Only potential issue is a drivetrain dilemma where you'd question spending large on a newer groupset, or going through a bit of trouble to find 9-speed replacement parts.

One nice approach to considering a new bike is seeing how it has evolved over time. Try out a new TCR Alliance and/or Advanced 3, see what deals are local. The Alliance is definitely in that $2000 region. As other posters said, there's decent build options as well.

 

[iSuffer]

upgrade

If you are truly comfortable on your ride, then just upgrade.

-I think you will find that the consensus will be to start w the wheels. Myself, I'm looking to get the Easton EA70s at around $400 (as I am a fellow cheapskate it may take a while).
Tires also make a big difference so do your homework.

-If you are replacing the cassette, then upgrade there. The $ difference b/w 105 and Ultegra is small and should give good results.

-I don't think you should change the crank unless there is a problem or you want to move to a compact.

 

[Brad the Bold]

New wheels, if you've got upgrade fever.

Since you're in Madison (welcome!), go over to Cronometro and tell them you want something light and strong and tell them how much you've got to spend. They'll build you wheels that'll be light, strong and easily fixable. They really build good wheels.

Or, a new ultegra drivetrain. But that's getting pretty pricey.

Those older TCRs are awesome little bikes.

Thanks Buck! I have heard good things about Cronometro but did not know they did custom wheels. I will check them out. I may be cheap but I know the value of having a good LBS.

 

[Bridgey]

I 2nd the Pedal Force. You can buy 1 of their frames, SRAM Rival componetary, wheels, etc for about $2000 and end up with a bike approx 7kg's in weight. I have one and it feels awesome on the road. Could use for touring or racing. Best bang for buck easy. Seen their same frames painted and rebadged for a whole lot more.

 

[iSuffer]

'09 bikes

FYI, if you are leaning towards a new bike, I just ordered an '09 Look 566 Rival for $2100+$100 build - $200 bing cash back.

 

[sanrensho]

I think you would be better off selling your old bike and getting something new.

For value, something from BikesDirect would get you a completely new bike with Ultegra 10-speed for <$1500, minus what you can sell the bike for.

As a frugal person myself, this seems like a better option than throwing money at upgrades unless you are attached to this frame.

 

[snoboardp]

I 2nd the Pedal Force. You can buy 1 of their frames, SRAM Rival componetary, wheels, etc for about $2000 and end up with a bike approx 7kg's in weight. I have one and it feels awesome on the road. Could use for touring or racing. Best bang for buck easy. Seen their same frames painted and rebadged for a whole lot more.

Same here, i'm doing the exact same thing.

 

[Brad the Bold]

I 2nd the Pedal Force. You can buy 1 of their frames, SRAM Rival componetary, wheels, etc for about $2000 and end up with a bike approx 7kg's in weight. I have one and it feels awesome on the road. Could use for touring or racing. Best bang for buck easy. Seen their same frames painted and rebadged for a whole lot more.

I've never built a bike from the ground up, so I don't know how to compare building a bike with buying a bike. Seems like that would add a whole new level of challenges.

On the otherhand, getting a carbon frame for $549 in a group buy sounds like a really good thing in the "Bang for the buck" equation.

 

[iamddn]

I am in a similar situation in which I spent a lot of money on a bike 10 years ago that still is awesome, but as I look to replace parts, the price is high enough to make me wonder whether to go with a whole new bike. For now, I am going to get some better wheels (I never thought I would $1K into a wheelset) and see how the bike feels.

What is hard for me is that some changes seem more fashionable whereas others seem to be more substantive, but it is hard to differentiate.

 

[Brad the Bold]

I am in a similar situation in which I spent a lot of money on a bike 10 years ago that still is awesome, but as I look to replace parts, the price is high enough to make me wonder whether to go with a whole new bike. For now, I am going to get some better wheels (I never thought I would $1K into a wheelset) and see how the bike feels.

What is hard for me is that some changes seem more fashionable whereas others seem to be more substantive, but it is hard to differentiate.

I hear ya.

At least wheels are easy to switch out, even for a novice bike mechanic like me. If you do decide to sell the old bike you can keep the $1k wheelset for the new bike and nothing is lost. And I think everyone agrees that reducing wheel weight and rolling resistance make a bigger difference to most bikes than shaving a few grams off non-rotating parts.

I guess I should demo a few bikes at or above my 2K pricepoint to see if I am missing something. I guess I don't expect a new bike to make me that much faster than my old bike, but maybe I'm wrong. Or maybe I've just mistaken familiarity for a good fit.

 

[Mel Erickson]

Personally, I don't think Ultegra 9spd is an upgrade at all. 105 and Ultegra are all steel cogs but the Ultegra body is alu. Sure, the 105 steel body weighs a bit more but it's also more durable. Cassettes and chains are wear items, not really upgrade items. Replace as necessary and move on.

 

[iamddn]

If you are truly comfortable on your ride, then just upgrade.

-I think you will find that the consensus will be to start w the wheels. Myself, I'm looking to get the Easton EA70s at around $400 (as I am a fellow cheapskate it may take a while).
Tires also make a big difference so do your homework.

-If you are replacing the cassette, then upgrade there. The $ difference b/w 105 and Ultegra is small and should give good results.

-I don't think you should change the crank unless there is a problem or you want to move to a compact.

I am really tempted by swamping my octalink ultegra crank for an new SRAM crank model due to the significant weight savings for the bottom bracket. But then I read about people complaining about creaks.

 

[laffeaux]

If you like your current frame, it fits well, and is comfortable, there's no reason to buy a new one. A new bike will weigh the same and perform the same (assuming your components are not worn out) as what you have now.

What's your goal for upgrading? Is your gearing not what you want? Do you want a lighter bike? Do you want a new bike? Knowing what you're interested in changing will help determine what needs to be changed on your bike.

 

[Never2Late]

I am in a similar situation in which I spent a lot of money on a bike 10 years ago that still is awesome, but as I look to replace parts, the price is high enough to make me wonder whether to go with a whole new bike. For now, I am going to get some better wheels (I never thought I would $1K into a wheelset) and see how the bike feels.

What is hard for me is that some changes seem more fashionable whereas others seem to be more substantive, but it is hard to differentiate.

10 years? Bikes are like women: 1- you can't afford to maintain more than one and 2- it's better to find a new ride after eight years. They don't call it the seven year itch for nothing. Ditch her and get a new one!

Tally ho!

 

[Never2Late]

I am in a similar situation in which I spent a lot of money on a bike 10 years ago that still is awesome, but as I look to replace parts, the price is high enough to make me wonder whether to go with a whole new bike. For now, I am going to get some better wheels (I never thought I would $1K into a wheelset) and see how the bike feels.

What is hard for me is that some changes seem more fashionable whereas others seem to be more substantive, but it is hard to differentiate.

10 years? Bikes are like women: 1- you can't afford to maintain more than one and 2- it's better to find a new ride after eight years. They don't call it the seven year itch for nothing. Ditch her and get a new one!

Tally ho!

 

[pennstater]

Test ride some new bikes. If you can't discern an improvement from your current ride consider yourself lucky and save your money. On the other hand, the Look 566 Rival for 1999 at Sun and Ski Sports is a good deal. Almost bought one for my wife. Only you can say if it's worth it.

If you opt for a new ride, keep the old bike as a backup and for rainy days. If you ride the new one for 7 years that's a relatively low cost per year. Want to save more money search for a used bike. Want to save even more money learn to do your own wrenching. It's not rocket science.